Washboard Dirt Roads = Major Problems

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Loufish

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25 pounds is rated for 1875 lbs.
YES!....This something I argue about all the time...that tire pressures are set for the actual weight's it carrying...I've been running lower then factory recommended tire pressures for many years under this premise...and never an issue.
By argue, I don't mean here at this forum.....
 

Ski4Ever

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I have this Viar: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004B68XGC/?tag=fordraptorforum-20

It takes me about 2 minutes per tire to come up from 28 to 36 psi on the stock 35's.

It's a great unit and offroading aired down is a delight.
Out of curiosity, do you have that Viair mounted somewhere permanently, or do you have to pull it out and hook up the power each time? If you’ve got it mounted permanently, where/how did you do it, and how did you run the hoses, etc?

Also, as far as using it, are you able to air up all 4 tires before having to let it cool down so it doesn’t overheat, etc?

Thanks!
 

zombiekiller

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On bead-locked race tires, this is fine. On c-load rated stock tires, sustained high speeds are a pretty risky proposition since you're going to overheat the sidewalls and risk blowouts.

Think Firestone tire debacle with Explorers back in the day. A main driver of the failure was overheating due to lower tire pressure recommendations on the Explorer.

I ran my tires as stated on method 701s with the V grip feature. That and the generals i'm running are d load range
 

K1llD4shN1n3

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Interesting I’ve been all over CO with my 2017 tires aired to 36 at most (when hot) and it never felt dangerous on washboards just a little loose. Also changing it to mud/sand (without locker) made it feel fine.

Looking forward to testing out the icon leafs and eibachs soon [emoji3]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Loufish

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Interesting I’ve been all over CO with my 2017 tires aired to 36 at most (when hot) and it never felt dangerous on washboards just a little loose. Also changing it to mud/sand (without locker) made it feel fine.
Try running about 24-25 frt, and about 23-24 rear on some rougher roads and see the difference....
 

LordExplorer

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OK, so what's wrong with my truck (or the driver)? It's a brand new 2019 SCREW, less than 5,000 miles logged so far. I've had it all over Colorado, including on relatively steep offroad terrain, mountain passes, in some late season snow at elevation, heavy rain, highways at 100+ mph, Starbucks lines, you name it. But for the glitchy CarPlay interface and door locks, I've LOVED everything about this truck. Performance has been awesome.

Then came an impromptu Sunday morning fishing trip with my son and some friends. Until yesterday, I'd never run it on wide open washboard gravel roads. The experience was, well, a combination of pathetic and scary. The back end constantly broke loose. "Skittish" as some have described it is an understatement.

I tried every single drive mode combination I could think of. Nothing helped. Anything over 10-12 MPH was flat out dangerous, particularly around corners. Passengers were frightened. Driver B - who has owned and driven trucks and heavily modified offroad vehicles his entire life - took over and had the same result. Raptor is now off his list. We were getting passed by 1980-something Honda Civics, motorcycles, loaded down SUVs. No joke. The wifey doesn't want to be back in the truck "until it's fixed."

I did some angry research last night and came across several posts about wheel hop and axle wrap. Is it really possible that this "King of the Offroad" truck comes from the factory so deficient that you need thousands of dollars of modifications just to be able to safely traverse gravel backgrounds in dry conditions? As sad as it is to admit, my 2008 bone stock V6 4Runner with 210,000 miles would have absolutely crushed the Raptor yesterday.

I know these questions will be asked, so here's some background info:
  • The tire pressure was a little high. I had it set at 38-39 front and back cold, which by the time we hit the road I'm sure had increased to 42 or so. It was a warm day. I see that most recommend running 38/34 for standard daily driving with weekend excursions stuff. I can and will make this adjustment. That said, I can't imagine losing 4 PSI in the rear tires is going to take this from pure shit to even acceptable.
  • We had 4 people in the truck, one thirty-five pound 4 year old plus three adults. Minimal cargo in the bed, maybe a 100 pounds. Fishing poles and a cooler.
  • We tried every single driving mode combination we could think of. 2wd, 4a, 4h. Normal mode, Sand/Mud, Baja, Deep Snow, even towing and whatever the other one is.
  • No performance mods yet. Stock tires, stock wheels, stock suspension. I have plans to buy a Cobb Stage 2, upgrade the wheels, put on new tires, and do a bunch of other stuff, all of which is back-burnered pending this troubleshooting expedition.
  • I'm not a professional race/baja/offroad driver and I'm light on Raptor street cred. I didn't own a Gen1, I don't have a million dollars worth of other vehicles in the garage, I'm not sponsored by RedBull. That said, I've spent plenty of time on trails and backroads in CO, WY, Utah, Montana without any issues, in deep snow, driving rain, bluebird sunshine, and everything between. No problems, no crashes, no scary experiences like yesterday.

One other possibly related thing to note is that the truck has never liked highways with segmented sections. Expansion joints, I believe. The ride quality is terrible and everyone looks forward to getting back on regular roads. (My 4 year old has a good time on them, truth be told, as he's realized that he can use the intense vibrations to make funny noises with his voice.)

So WTF is up here? Do I have some suspension issue? Tire problems? Am I the world's worst driver? In touting the amazing offroad performance of these engineering marvels, did everyone forget to mention that washboard gravel and light duty offroading are big no-nos? Are my options really limited to: (1) slow crawl aggressive terrain; (2) send it for some epic mid-flight picture; or (3) stay on pavement?

Hey OP, I had the same experience when I first bought my 2019 a few months ago. First dirt road almost crash off side embankment on a turn because of wheel hop I rear. I too live in CO. I drive dirt roads all the time. I near air my tires down. Keep at 38. The fix I found was to turn off traction control (just quick press, not long hold). Fixed everything for me. Truck is amazing and I blast down washboard roads at excessive speeds all the time now. Sometimes I’ll put in slippery mode if conditions require but typically I’ll leave in 2wd.

Just press the traction control button and problem solved. Issue is traction control intervening too much
 

RamonaRaptor1

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Did you go to the free Raptor Assault class? You'd learn a lot about what your Raptor can do and airing down is definitely one of them. Driving on gravel and jamming on the breaks is one of the first exercises. I'd highly recommend this as it allowed me to be more aggressive with the truck than I normally would be. I got confidence and felt safe. By the way, you use their Raptor and not yours!

This youtube describes your experience. I watched this just before I went to school!


Now go have some SAFE FUN!
 
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goblues38

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Think Firestone tire debacle with Explorers back in the day. A main driver of the failure was overheating due to lower tire pressure recommendations on the Explorer.

That was great...for me......we had a 98 expedition. 35k on my stock firestones when the recall came out. Nothing like free tires.
 

colorap

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I experience the same skittishness on some basic gravel roads and even on pavement potholes. The Fox Live shocks are certainly that - "live". Taking a washboard at any speed over 10 MPH puts it on the edge of uncontrollable. The back end seems to barely be making contact with the road. As for pavement - I live in what is likely the worst pothole environment in the nation, Colorado Springs. If I hit a pothole or even a manhole cover depression, the backend will jerk left or right dramatically.

What I gather from this discussion is PSI is the key? I often go between gravel and pavement, so ideally I'd have a PSI sweet-spot that accommodated both/either. Any recommendations? Similar to others my 2019 SCREW was delivered from the factory at 50 PSI. WTH when the rating is clearly stated as 38.

Seperate from PSI are there any adjustments that can be made to the shock system?

Good thread starter PDT905!
 

rtmozingo

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I experience the same skittishness on some basic gravel roads and even on pavement potholes. The Fox Live shocks are certainly that - "live". Taking a washboard at any speed over 10 MPH puts it on the edge of uncontrollable. The back end seems to barely be making contact with the road. As for pavement - I live in what is likely the worst pothole environment in the nation, Colorado Springs. If I hit a pothole or even a manhole cover depression, the backend will jerk left or right dramatically.

What I gather from this discussion is PSI is the key? I often go between gravel and pavement, so ideally I'd have a PSI sweet-spot that accommodated both/either. Any recommendations? Similar to others my 2019 SCREW was delivered from the factory at 50 PSI. WTH when the rating is clearly stated as 38.

Seperate from PSI are there any adjustments that can be made to the shock system?

Good thread starter PDT905!

I've driven my 2017 and a 2019 back to back on the same rough road - even with the 2019 aired up to 40 or so, the live valves helped noticeably at smoothing out the chop (which I also confirmed at the track, comparison video to come soon). 38psi is for a fully loaded bed or trailer. I had to go down to under 34 psi in my rear tires to not get overinflated wear (and honestly, still did).
 
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