vibration on acceleration

[The Car Stereo Company]

Yes, you want to put a chalk or marker line from the front of the driveshaft to the transfer case flange and another mark from the rear of the driveshaft to the pinion yoke. That keeps the driveshaft in phase with the flanges to prevent driveline vibrations that can occur when the orientation between the rotating parts changes.

thanks dude. going to autozone to pick up new u joints soon. hope i dont find a way to screw this up

 

[The Car Stereo Company]

Yes, you want to put a chalk or marker line from the front of the driveshaft to the transfer case flange and another mark from the rear of the driveshaft to the pinion yoke. That keeps the driveshaft in phase with the flanges to prevent driveline vibrations that can occur when the orientation between the rotating parts changes.

one other question for you then. how can i tell if its in the right spot? when i replaced my rear axle 3 years ago, i didnt pay attention to this. it may have rotated. also when my transmission was replaced, i dont know if it was orientated the right way either. i didnt think there was a specific way it had to go in as long as the bolts lined up.

 

[FordTechOne]

one other question for you then. how can i tell if its in the right spot? when i replaced my rear axle 3 years ago, i didnt pay attention to this. it may have rotated. also when my transmission was replaced, i dont know if it was orientated the right way either. i didnt think there was a specific way it had to go in as long as the bolts lined up.

Well, you can't. As you mention, the driveshaft will install in multiple orientations; the reason you mark it is to prevent inducing a vibration from a change in the connection between the yokes/flanges.

If you had no vibration issues before the u-joint failed, I would re-install it the same way it came out.

 

[The Car Stereo Company]

Well, you can't. As you mention, the driveshaft will install in multiple orientations; the reason you mark it is to prevent inducing a vibration from a change in the connection between the yokes/flanges.

If you had no vibration issues before the u-joint failed, I would re-install it the same way it came out.

ok thanks

 

[The Car Stereo Company]

and im at a dead stop....... didnt realize i need puller.

 

[GCATX]

If you have a good size C-clamp you can use a sockets to put pressure on one side of the joint and a larger socket to "receive" the other end of the joint. Tighten it down as far as it will go and tap the ear with a hammer, tighten, hammer, tighten, etc, and it should work it's way out. Or you can get the correct tool at Harbor Freight, or maybe borrow one at a parts store. If you have a shop press that will work too.
Easiest option, if you have other transportation, would be drop the shaft off at a driveshaft place and have them do it, it's shouldn't be real spendy and you won't run the risk of ******** something up.
Probably a bunch of youtube videos.

Oh, don't forget to remove the C-clips.

 

[The Car Stereo Company]

not sure these caps can be pressed in any further? it looks to need to be pulled out rsther than pressed?

 

[FordTechOne]

not sure these caps can be pressed in any further? it looks to need to be pulled out rsther than pressed?

Once you remove the snap rings, use a c-clamp to press a bearing cup inward, which pushes the corresponding cup out of the opposite side. Once the cup gets pressed out on the other side, flip the driveshaft 180 degrees and press the cross inward to push the other cup out.

 

[The Car Stereo Company]

so the idiots looking at their computer screen at autozone gave me 1350 i believe. its a moog 232 and looking seems to be the replacement for the 1350. **** me

 

[The Car Stereo Company]

looks like i need the 295..... computer screen wizards.