Upfitter Switch Cutout Control - 1 Option

[chadasm]

TED, the relays are plugged into the following sockets:
2x - MAGNECRAFT 70-464-1 Socket,Relay,8Pin,300/600V, 15/10A
1x - MAGNECRAFT 70-781D5-1A Socket,Relay,5 Pin,300V,20A

Then all placed on a DIN rail which was cut because it was way longer than I actually needed:
MAGNECRAFT 16-700DIN DIN Rail, Aluminum, 39.37 In L

 

[TED]

the diagram appears to have the current staying on with either the open circuit or the closed circuit powered when the vehicle is on. Is this the function of the timers to cut the power in either direction after opening or closing of the Doug's cut out is complete?
I would think that since Doug's has a rocker switch, that there shouldn't be continuous power to the motor on the cut out? Am I missing something? thank you

 

[chadasm]

Right, those are interval-on relays, meaning when they are activated, the output is only on for an interval you set. Time the cutout for how long it takes to open and close and set then set the relays for that. Mine was about 3 seconds. After that, the relay will turn off its output.

 

[TED]

There are a few ways to control an e exhaust cutout with the Raptor's upfitter switches. What I went with was not the cheapest option, but for me it was one of the easiest. If you know microelectronics or programming (Arduino or Raspberry Pi for example) you can do it for quite a bit less. I didn't care for either subject that much in college, so I didn't want to relearn it for this project.

I have Doug’s cutout, so the wiring might be slightly different for another brand. I have not looked into exactly how the others are wired. I used one power relay and two interval-on relays from Schneider Electric:
Power Relay: 781XAXC-12D
Interval-on Relays: TDRSOXP-12V

So far it works great. The upfitter switches are factory wired to the ignition, so they are off when the truck is off. I wired the 12V power to the radio delay signal so the relays still have power right after I turn the truck off until the door is opened. If I have the cutout open and turn off the truck, the cutout closes automatically. If the upfitter switch is on when the truck turns on, the cutout opens up as soon as the truck starts up.

The interval relays are the most expensive piece at about $40 a pop. All in all it cost me just under $100. I ordered everything from zorotools on eBay Take a look at the wiring diagram and pic of the relays. Let me know if you have any questions.

Figured out the wiring diagram I think! Did you mount the relays under the hood or under the dash, thx ted

---------- Post added at 10:06 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:02 AM ----------

Right, those are interval-on relays, meaning when they are activated, the output is only on for an interval you set. Time the cutout for how long it takes to open and close and set then set the relays for that. Mine was about 3 seconds. After that, the relay will turn off its output.

thx, I was wondering how to set the timers.
It took me a bit to figure out the wiring to the relay and the timers but I think I have it down now. I need glasses I guess!
Did oyu place the timers/relay under the dash or the engine compartment?
thx, ted

 

[chadasm]

I didn't do any work under the hood. I put everything up behind the glove box, there is a lot of room back there.

 

[Idleone]

This is all spanish to me. I do believe however if someone builds a "plug in play" kit for this one could sell many

 

[TED]

This is all spanish to me. I do believe however if someone builds a "plug in play" kit for this one could sell many

It was for me too! I just jumped in in the deep end and read the posts and figures if I could just start somewhere it would be a good thing. I'm ready to hook it all up this week time permitting.

My first experience with the upfitter switches was to re-wire them since the Ford Dealer did it wrong. Youtube had some video of how this is wired and accomplished....very helpful. And the Rigid light bar in the grill which is a combo of white and amber "Rocks" I added two pair of the white and amber Rigid D 2 fogs and the mounting plate for around $1000 total. Again, I removed the "generic" bar light the Ford Dealer put on my truck since it went bad. the new lights are perfect and look totally awesome. Brighter than the sun! I wired them into the upfitter switches #2 and #3. I saved the #1 for the exhaust cut out.
the challenge with wiring in a cut out is simple, turns out, once you understand the electrical mechanics of the wire schematic.
Cut outs are positive power to open and to close then no power. That's why they come with a factory "rocker type switch" Like a power window, when they are at the end of either open or closed, they need to stop being powered. thus a rocker type witch.
the time serves the same purpose.....I hope!
More when I get it finished,,,,,
ted

 

[TED]

I didn't do any work under the hood. I put everything up behind the glove box, there is a lot of room back there.

Do you mean other than the radio #41 micro circuit for the power?
I assumed it came from the fuse box under the hood...correct? And routed back under the dash from under the hood? Is there another place you got the second power easier to get to?
thx ted

 

[chadasm]

Do you mean other than the radio #41 micro circuit for the power?
I assumed it came from the fuse box under the hood...correct? And routed back under the dash from under the hood? Is there another place you got the second power easier to get to?
thx ted

There is another fuse box behind the passenger kick panel below the glovebox. That is the one I used.

 

[TED]

There is another fuse box behind the passenger kick panel below the glovebox. That is the one I used.

Holy crap Batman???? Who knew? Where is it down there, more searching I guess....dang! So I could have gotten the Upfitter power right there and the radio power #41 down there? That would have been easier for certain, however I had to re-wire the dealer mess up anyway. This seems easy once I find the second fuse box!!!