Trouble starting after full fill up

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

D

Deleted member 17706

Guest
Not to get this thread off topic, but since headers were mentioned due to heat concerns, has anybody used Jet Hot for their ceramic coatings? Their technology is suppose to be superior to nearly all ceramic coatings and allow one to reduce engine temps vastly. I was planning on using them.


https://www.jet-hot.com
 

MTF

FRF Addict
Joined
Nov 27, 2010
Posts
5,434
Reaction score
2,368
Location
Celebration, Florida
100% agree. And if I forgot to mention, it has always started. It will just make that noise you attributed to the starter, and take a few times. Drive 5 min home and try and start and it starts perfect.
Thanks for all the help.

Did you let it sit for a while before trying, about as long as it takes to fuel up.
 
Last edited:

BigDaddy69

Member
Joined
Sep 17, 2019
Posts
31
Reaction score
17
Location
Mohawk, MI / Naperville, IL
It could be an overfill or pressure sensor in the tank. I had a similar issue with my last vehicle. When the tank was full it would have trouble starting and the engine would cut out while driving on occasion.
 

B E N

FRF Addict
Joined
May 1, 2019
Posts
1,236
Reaction score
1,159
Location
Frederick, CO
You can clearly hear the starter gear isn't engaging the flywheel on the first attempt in the video. Not a fuel problem.
 
OP
OP
nick0331

nick0331

Full Access Member
Joined
Mar 11, 2015
Posts
87
Reaction score
169
Location
Colorado
Well, it was 2 ******* months to the day. But the truck is finally out of the shop...kind of. It initially went in for 3 issues all covered under extended warranty. 1: Starting issue, 2: Backup camera malfunction, 3: Broken dip stick tube.

3: The dip stick tube was replaced, $22 part, 8rs of labor, had to remove the passenger side header.

1: They started by changing the fuel vapor purge canister, against advice, and it didn’t fix the issue. So they replaced the starter and that so far that seems to have fixed the starting issue.

2: The ******* camera. So first they replaced a the Audio Control Module, did not fix the camera. Then they sent to Ford to inspect more thoroughly, Ford replaced 2 more modules. And now the camera works, but there are no backup lines, and the zoom button in top left doesn’t work. Also when they disassembled the console. They cut both Push to talk buttons, and the harness for the Switch Pro coming from battery is no longer connected to the switch, and the harness is no longer even visible in console, and on top of that the mechanic left 1 foot of the cut PTT wire buried in the console.

So needless to say, I took the truck and advised the dealer that the electronics will now be getting fixed at my trusted electronic shop and they will be billed for the repairs.

CCF6649B-32D4-4E88-B196-6D36700C87A5.jpeg

E387E8AA-8F0B-479B-9EDD-82672448DFC8.jpeg

EC8CDC07-B73C-47FD-9B78-C8F02702BF32.jpeg

A584AC53-9978-4482-A036-8808F2E7F07D.jpeg

1474E7B2-9AD2-44E5-B1E3-769CFD27179A.jpeg
 

SVT_Samson

Member
Joined
Apr 22, 2024
Posts
2
Reaction score
0
Location
USA
Based on the video, the concern is a no crank no start, correct? The first time you turn the ignition to start I hear a noise, but it does not sound like the engine is cranking. If that is the case, then the dealer improperly diagosed the issue. A purge valve or EVAP (carbon) canister will never cause a no crank condition.

As others have mentioned, it could very possibly be the starter, especially with headers. Other possibilities include the ignition switch, the circuit to the starter solenoid ("S" Terminal), the Transmission Range (TR) sensor, the starter relay, or the main power (B+) and ground (starter case). It does not appear to be Body Control Module (BCM) or PATS (Passive Anti-Theft System) related because it does not display "Starting System Fault" in the Instrument Cluster.

Start by inspecting all of the connections at the battery and starter. They should be clean, tight, and free of any corrosion. If there are no connection issues, wiggle the shifter or move it to Neutral and try to start it again. If it starts on the first try, try the same test on the next no crank and see if it is consistent. If moving the shifter gets it to start, you may have an issue with your TR sensor.

Do you have access to ForScan? The PIDs are very helpful when diagnosing issues such as this.
you seem knowledgeable I had the issue of rough start and idle after fill up. In my case it was the solenoid because it stopped doing it immediately after replacement. now less than a month later im having a different issue with the truck not remote starting and throwing a code P0446. This code eludes to the evap system which from what i can tell is the vapor module or the canister itself. would this be a correcct assumption? The truck runs and drives fine other than no remote start and check engine. Ive run code twice and P0446 is what it shows
 

FordTechOne

FRF Supporting Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Jul 29, 2019
Posts
6,664
Reaction score
13,041
Location
Detroit
you seem knowledgeable I had the issue of rough start and idle after fill up. In my case it was the solenoid because it stopped doing it immediately after replacement. now less than a month later im having a different issue with the truck not remote starting and throwing a code P0446. This code eludes to the evap system which from what i can tell is the vapor module or the canister itself. would this be a correcct assumption? The truck runs and drives fine other than no remote start and check engine. Ive run code twice and P0446 is what it shows
If it was overfilled with fuel at some point the raw gas will enter the EVAP canister and cause repeat purge valve failure.I’d suspect that’s what you have going on, that will require replacement of the EVAP canister.
 

SVT_Samson

Member
Joined
Apr 22, 2024
Posts
2
Reaction score
0
Location
USA
If it was overfilled with fuel at some point the raw gas will enter the EVAP canister and cause repeat purge valve failure.I’d suspect that’s what you have going on, that will require replacement of the EVAP canister.
The guy who helped me with the replacement was a ford tech before switching jobs to be a CAT mechanic. He told me not to overfill and i haven't since. But if it was left over from before that would make sense. So is it just the charcoal canister or om i misreading that?
 

FordTechOne

FRF Supporting Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Jul 29, 2019
Posts
6,664
Reaction score
13,041
Location
Detroit
The guy who helped me with the replacement was a ford tech before switching jobs to be a CAT mechanic. He told me not to overfill and i haven't since. But if it was left over from before that would make sense. So is it just the charcoal canister or om i misreading that?
Yes, charcoal canister. Ensure the lines do not have raw fuel in them.
 
Top