Trans leak, CEL on

[someday]

Hot and running

 

[Gumby]

Make sure your trans is at the correct temperature when you check it after changing it. I think it has to be around 197 degrees. I think that's the temperature the thermostat in the trans opens to let the fluid travel through the trans cooler. Someone correct me if I have the temps wrong.

I believe the T stat in the trans is 145. I put the fluid level on the stick. At bottom of the hash marks. When the fluid is just warm like 120 Deg just makes things easer to check. running and warm. The cat just get so freaking hot.

 

[ThrillSeeker24]

Current update:

It's been an interesting first month or 2 with this thing lol. It's been showing all the reasons why I hate buying things used, but for what I paid, I did buy it expecting to have to put money into it.

The rattle issue has been found. Enough searching here and youtube I managed to find multiple vids with the exact same noise mine was making. My wife was driving it a couple weeks ago and I had her put it in 4wd. Imagine that, the noise went away lol. So, replaced the solenoid and check valve since they were cheap and might fix issue. It did not. I'm honestly thinking I may just put a zip tie around the outlet hose from the valve down to the hubs and have them engaged all the time. The rattle is absolutely driving me insane and I just don't care about the .5mpg or whatever it would be, to have them engaged all the time.

Haven't got around to changing trans fluid on it yet, just been too busy and cold out when I'm not.

Place I bought it from replaced the blend doors since they agreed to do it upon purchase. Took them a flippin week to get around to it and I ended up going up there after that to wait on them to finish it. In the process, they broke something in the hvac control panel and I have zero control over my hvac (even on screen) and no nav. It's stuck on max heat with probably about fan speed 2 or 3 lmao. So I've been using the windows to regulate temp while waiting on these dopes to get the piece in that they broke. I'm just gonna pick it up and install myself, wasn't at all pleased with the work they did to it.

Tach needle fell off shortly after I got it back. Can't imagine why right? Haha. Oh well, easy fix when I'm ready to fix it. Thankfully the tach really isn't that important.

Replaced the canister purge valve after getting a small evap leak and lean bank 1 code. That got rid of both of those codes.

Both cat codes have remained, will start with o2's first and if they don't fix it, then I guess it's time for headers. Can't wait to tackle that project lol.

Today I went out to my garage and noticed the truck had a lean to it. My driveway is sloped and gravel, so I thought maybe it was the angle it was sitting at. Grabbed a tape measure and measured ground to bottom of fender flare... Yep passenger side sitting almost 3in lower than driver. SWEET. That much, I'm guessing I did when hauling a set of axles for my F350. Those things were damn heavy. Spring definitely looks more W than U lol. I'm probably just gonna park it until I get can some new springs since I have my little BMW and also an Aprilia when the weather gets nice. After MUCH looking through this forum, I'm still undecided on Deavers or Icons, but I guess it's time to price them both out and save my pennies.

Really, I'm just thinking that if I end up putting like, $5-6k into it to get everything back where it should be (honestly shouldn't even be that much), I'll still be a hell of a lot cheaper than a more, "nice" gen 1 lol. Stay tuned I guess, we'll see how things go.

 

[Gumby]

Current update:

It's been an interesting first month or 2 with this thing lol. It's been showing all the reasons why I hate buying things used, but for what I paid, I did buy it expecting to have to put money into it.

The rattle issue has been found. Enough searching here and youtube I managed to find multiple vids with the exact same noise mine was making. My wife was driving it a couple weeks ago and I had her put it in 4wd. Imagine that, the noise went away lol. So, replaced the solenoid and check valve since they were cheap and might fix issue. It did not. I'm honestly thinking I may just put a zip tie around the outlet hose from the valve down to the hubs and have them engaged all the time. The rattle is absolutely driving me insane and I just don't care about the .5mpg or whatever it would be, to have them engaged all the time.

Haven't got around to changing trans fluid on it yet, just been too busy and cold out when I'm not.

Place I bought it from replaced the blend doors since they agreed to do it upon purchase. Took them a flippin week to get around to it and I ended up going up there after that to wait on them to finish it. In the process, they broke something in the hvac control panel and I have zero control over my hvac (even on screen) and no nav. It's stuck on max heat with probably about fan speed 2 or 3 lmao. So I've been using the windows to regulate temp while waiting on these dopes to get the piece in that they broke. I'm just gonna pick it up and install myself, wasn't at all pleased with the work they did to it.

Tach needle fell off shortly after I got it back. Can't imagine why right? Haha. Oh well, easy fix when I'm ready to fix it. Thankfully the tach really isn't that important.

Replaced the canister purge valve after getting a small evap leak and lean bank 1 code. That got rid of both of those codes.

Both cat codes have remained, will start with o2's first and if they don't fix it, then I guess it's time for headers. Can't wait to tackle that project lol.

Today I went out to my garage and noticed the truck had a lean to it. My driveway is sloped and gravel, so I thought maybe it was the angle it was sitting at. Grabbed a tape measure and measured ground to bottom of fender flare... Yep passenger side sitting almost 3in lower than driver. SWEET. That much, I'm guessing I did when hauling a set of axles for my F350. Those things were damn heavy. Spring definitely looks more W than U lol. I'm probably just gonna park it until I get can some new springs since I have my little BMW and also an Aprilia when the weather gets nice. After MUCH looking through this forum, I'm still undecided on Deavers or Icons, but I guess it's time to price them both out and save my pennies.

Really, I'm just thinking that if I end up putting like, $5-6k into it to get everything back where it should be (honestly shouldn't even be that much), I'll still be a hell of a lot cheaper than a more, "nice" gen 1 lol. Stay tuned I guess, we'll see how things go.

Put a set of IWE in... They are not expensive and are a 2 out of 10 pretty easy to change.
I have a set of stock springs you can have. Next time I come there (Akron)

 

[rschap1]

X2, if the IWEs are needed, it was a lot easier to replace them than I had thought.
I was never used to being able to remove/reinstall ball joints like the way these went out and back in. LOTS of good info on here about the couple little "tricks" etc.

 

[ThrillSeeker24]

Put a set of IWE in... They are not expensive and are a 2 out of 10 pretty easy to change.
I have a set of stock springs you can have. Next time I come there (Akron)

Good call, I'll look into those then. And the vacuum lines that go along with them and just replace everything

And that would be awesome man. I'm actually about 20min north of Akron myself

 

[Gumby]

The falls stow Area?

 

[AZ-Rich]

I have a 2010 6.2 and recently had low speed rotational noises developing that were not present before I replaced all my shocks after having them rebuilt. Finally dialed in on the diagnosis that my IWE vacum lines were not holding vacum and the half shafts engaged were causing the noise. After 14 years those IWE rigid vacum lines were as brittle as can be. I must have broke one or more when pushing them away from the front shock tower mounting bolts. I could hardly believe just how brittle the entire lines were! After a lot of research and discussions with the main Ford Parts Director (my neighbor) in my area I learned Ford stopped making the AL3Z-7A785-E OEM vacum line assembly for the 2010, so it’s now obsolete. He did suggest the service techs have used a later model tube assembly BL3Z-7A785-A instead. Essentially this one is pre-bent the same as the original but some of the zip clips are either the wrong shape or on the wrong location to fit right. With some simple modifications (replacing about 6 zip clips and having those in the right spots) the new lines did fix the problem. With the front wheels jacked off the ground; It’s easy to pull the rubber lines from the hub actuators and using a hand vacuum pump down each of the actuators to test the vacum and see if your front wheels will spin freely. Those actuators should disengage the hub with at about 10 in of Hg. As a reference your IWE system should be pulling ~18-24 in Hg with the engine running in 2 wheel drive depending on elevation. Continuing to Run those actuators partially engaged (with that rattle sound) will insure you’ll have to replace them. Might be time to check your lines for old brittle tubing.