Cybot
Active Member
Ok, since most of the braking is done on the front brakes do I need the rear?Because of the electric parking brake.
Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.
Ok, since most of the braking is done on the front brakes do I need the rear?Because of the electric parking brake.
Very interesting, thanks for the write up.My understanding is that our Raptors have the same brakes as the standard F150 which has much higher payload and towing ratings so not really seeing why they need to be upgraded for towing. From what I can find quickly I don't see any upgraded brakes listed for any of the tow packages on the F150 (those that may know better please correct if wrong) so seems the stock Raptor brakes should be fine. Plus, any RV you get in the sizes it sounds like you are considering will have it's own brakes and you can adjust their stopping power with the gain setting on the Raptor's brake controller. If there are optional brake upgrades for the RV you like they may be worth pursuing.
IMO, it's the soft rear suspension that is the concern that needs to be addressed. Trailer sway is your biggest concern with a large RV and a softly sprung tow vehicle.
With a large RV you can expect to exceed the rear axle rating and I'm not sure what the limiting factor is for this rating. If it's the soft suspension then maybe the suspension upgrades you are considering will provide you the stability you need. If it's the axle itself I'd be concerned. It could also be the tires but I could not find an inflation/load table to determine if this could be the case. Regardless, you'll probably want to tow with more psi than the door jamb recommended psi. Anyone have the inflation/load table for our BFG's? If you're running different tires you'll want to verify they can handle the loads you expect. Assuming the tires you have are load range C you may want to consider getting some with load range E as the stiffer sidewall will be noticeably less flexy when towing.
Also besides the arrow dynamics and the added surface area that will catch more wind. Is there anything else I should be worried about when it comes to length of the trailer.
LOL, well the only thing I'm worried about in the "should be doing" category is hurting other people. So that's mainly the reason I'm willing to pay the extra money for the uprades to carry a trailer. If I wouldn't be doing that then I'd like you all and do it for off road performance. I'm greedy, I want both (but I know that I'll degrade the performance to add some stability I'm just looking for that sweet spot in between both), I Want be able to carry the trailer that I will be calling my dwelling for a few years, but still be able to have some fun in the truck (and I'm smart enough to know the difference between a pipe dream of towing a huge trailer and carrying something that I'd be happy and comfortable with) until I find the perfect spot that I want to live. Then build my dream house and backyard play ground with a pool, bar, outside and inside chef kitchen, outside and inside theaters, you know the bare necessities.Lots of opinions here…I saw a guy in a ChevyS-10 come into my scrap yard w/ cast iron rotors & drums filling that bed to the brim & spilling, then he- along w/ his friend, proceeded to unload the entire contents into our pile & scale out- net weight of the load on that poor beat down S10 was 2580 lbs!!!!!!!!!!! More impressive than the weight in the bed was the fact that 2 highly motivated ****/crack heads were able to offload it BY HAND in less than 1 hr. Seriously unfathomable, I dunno if one of the equipment operators helped out by sweeping some off w/ a grapple….but still- crazy!
Now I’m for sure not recommending for that, but….the Raptor can/could/will tow & haul whatever weight anyone would be willing to max out ANY F150, 10-12k lbs, sure, do it enough times & you’ll be busting springs, shocks, ball joints, tie rods, bump stops, etc etc etc - BUT it’s plenty capable of it in terms of braking & the engine/tranny power & durability.
All that being said….we all know there’s a wide margin of discussion between what you CAN do & what you “SHOULD” be doing
Look carefully at the picture and read the attached link. I don’t know what was inside that trailer, or anything about the trucks payload capacity, but I bet the ACCIDENT is related to the trailer. Remember payload is directly related to the weight axles can support…..NOT what the trailer can carry. Magnify the rear axle and you will see the lugs have been completely sheared off and lugs are part of the axle. If the victim in this case was a member of your family and if the payload was over weight, how would you feel? As for the driver of the truck, most, if not all states, have laws in place when a person dies as a result of another person. Normally it falls under involuntary manslaughter. I occasionally go to Vegas to eat, drink and watch shows, I don’t gamble. Lastly, like Rex articulated, just because you can, doesn’t mean you should.
Indiana driver killed when pickup truck wheel bounces through car windshield along I-70
Wheel comes off pickup truck, bounces over Indianapolis interstate median, kills 2nd driver
Police say a wheel came off a pickup truck on an Indianapolis freeway, bounced over a median and crashed into the windshield of another vehicle, killing its driver.www.wevv.com
It’s been my experience as a 30 CHP Officer, the opposite is true. I’ve seen it more times than I can remember. Normally if lug nuts are loose enough they will become detached from the lug, which will cause the wheel to briefly violently wobble before the wheel totally breaks off. The lugs that remained on the axle resulted from the detached nuts and the lugs which stayed intact are sheared off because they still had nuts attached. If all the lugs are sheared it could be because they were over tightened or the vehicle was over loaded. There are other reasons that can cause all nuts to shear off the axle, but the two I mentioned are the most common reason.Not disputing what should or shouldn't be done in regards to towing, but there is next to no information on that article. In nearly all cases I've seen of wheel studs shearing and the wheel separating from the vehicle it is *almost* always because the lug nuts weren't tight. Happens all the time when quick service places forget to tighten a customer's lug nuts. Unless that guy filled that small utility trailer to the roof with bricks and bags of concrete the failure was more likely due to negligence from either the owner or someone who worked on the vehicle.
I doubt it. Overload in what way exactly?800lb on the tongue will likely overload your rear axle unless you have a WDH.
It’s been my experience as a 30 CHP Officer, the opposite is true. I’ve seen it more times than I can remember. Normally if lug nuts are loose enough they will become detached from the lug, which will cause the wheel to briefly violently wobble before the wheel totally breaks off. The lugs that remained on the axle resulted from the detached nuts and the lugs which stayed intact are sheared off because they still had nuts attached. If all the lugs are sheared it could be because they were over tightened or the vehicle was over loaded. There are other reasons that can cause all nuts to shear off the axle, but the two I mentioned are the most common reason.