GEN 1 SPC Alignment Cams Installation Guidance

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Jakenbake

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As the title suggests I have a few questions regarding the installation of the SPC alignment cams. The kit I will be installing is model 86252, the ones that you drill a key hole and you are able to torque the nut rather than the bolt.

https://www.spcalignment.com/compon...=F-150&year=2004 - 2014&from=USAFrom&to=USATo


1. Would it make a difference to the alignment tech which direction the bolt faces on the rear control am bolts? The reason I ask is it looks like you would not be able to use a torque wrench to torque the nut in the factory configuration, but it would definitely be easier on me to install it in the factory configuration as I don't think I would have to remove the sway bar to do so.

1.1 Do most alignment shops actually torque the lower control arm bolts or just use open ends/box ends and get em tight?

2. Given how this kit appears to not rely on friction provided by tension in the bolt to hold alignment but rather uses the cams on both ends, should I use loctite on the threads?


Thanks!
 
R

Rick@FreedomMotorsports

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Jake,

We sell these and I have them installed on my Raptor.
https://www.freedommotorsports.us/i...it-w-upgraded-bolts.html?ref=category:1182750

Remember these HD ones have finer threads so the torque is 198, not the factory 258.

1. Install like factory
Hold the bolt with a wrench on the far rear nut and torque from the other side once the alignment is set.
2. Alignment tech should torque it but yeah some do and some don't. I have to tell them because of the different torque values otherwise they will over torque it. The shop I go to lets me be in the shop with the tech. I actually purchased that Firestone lifetime alignment but don't use it because I found a better place regardless if I have to pay each time.
3. I have not used loctite and not had issues. Mine stays put. I do use torque paint so at a glance I can tell if it moved when off-roading.

Hope that helps,
Rick
 
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Jakenbake

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That is the same kit that I have as well. Good call on the 198ft*lbs. and I will avoid the loctite and go with the paint marker.

In regards to torquing the rear bolts/nuts since they can’t torque the bolt without changing the alignment value do they just use an open end/boxed end wrench on the rear bolts since it looks like the sway bar will block using a torque wrench?
 
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Rick@FreedomMotorsports

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That is the same kit that I have as well. Good call on the 198ft*lbs. and I will avoid the loctite and go with the paint marker.

In regards to torquing the rear bolts/nuts since they can’t torque the bolt without changing the alignment value do they just use an open end/boxed end wrench on the rear bolts since it looks like the sway bar will block using a torque wrench?

Snap-on makes an Interchangable Head Torque wrench that you can put an open end on instead of a socket. Or torque from the other side on the bolt head, not the nut.
 
D

Deleted member 12951

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Hi , I used the Ford kit, and so far it is good, had the Ford dealer do the work since it is their parts, raised truck 1 1/2 inches I like it, Scott

What exactly are you talking about? An alignment cam kit no way in hell will raise the truck 1.5”.
 

MTF

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I'm a little confused too, why are you putting in new LCAs in what looks like a truck with very low mileage.
 
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Jakenbake

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How did you all drill the drivers rear hole? The axle housing looks like it is going to prevent the drill from being square with the hole?
 

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