Spark Plug Change

[Blu Bug]

The job difficulty is overhyped is what I learned last spring when I did my plugs. I made the job way more difficult than it should have been by not working smart. Trying to get the lower plugs from above is dumb and will cause much pain for an old guy. All the lower plugs are easier to get at through the wheel well or under the truck, the liner can be pushed or pulled out of the way. There is only one plug that is difficult, front passenger side is hard because it has to be done blind at a difficult angle. What worked for me was socket, short extension, then swivel plus longer extension, this combo will allow you to get by the shock tower. To get the socket on the plug raise the nose slightly and it goes on at an upward angle. A rolling seatbox or work stool makes the job easier as well. The second time will go much faster and will be done in groups of four.

But did you deal with a Roush Super Charger?

 

[Blu Bug]

I opted for the stealership route for the first go-around while I learned more about it. If anything goes south it’s their fault…but we all know how that goes too! ‍

 

[Blu Bug]

The dealership gave me several prices all based on how much stuff broke during the removal phase. Never trust someone who tells you the more they break the more it will cost.

 

[vtwinjunkie]

The dealership gave me several prices all based on how much stuff broke during the removal phase. Never trust someone who tells you the more they break the more it will cost.

yes and no. I remember the 5.4 engines were notorious for plugs breaking off inside the head...I cant remember exactly why but it was a thing I remember dealing with.
Not sure if that ever happens with our 6.2's but it seems like a no.

 

[rschap1]

I thought the 5.4s were supposed to be bad.
Think I have done 3 now.
1 2 valve and 2 3 valve motors.
Not as bad as I had feared.

 

[Ruger]

The dealership gave me several prices all based on how much stuff broke during the removal phase. Never trust someone who tells you the more they break the more it will cost.

I did it myself and didn't break a thing.

 

[Blu Bug]

I did it myself and didn't break a thing.

How wonderful!

 

[Ruger]

I'm going to resurrect this thread because it's Easter season.

I have a 2011 GEN1 6.2L and changed the spark plugs in March of 2022. I bought them at a Ford dealership parts counter - their current recommended spec plugs: Motorcraft SP-526 also known as CYFS-12-FP. Since then I have noted measurable reduction in MPG - down 0.7 MPG. From March 2021 to March 2022 the calculated (not off the dash, but by manually dividing miles by gallons burned) was 15.5. After the spark plug change from May 2022 to March 2023 the calculated MPG was 14.8. 10 to 12 months of regular driving in both cases.

I did not write down the alpha-numerics of the factory plugs I removed, so I am wondering whether they were different from the new plugs that I installed. BTW, I meticulously gapped the new plugs to the recommended spec (0.044"), torqued them to the recommended spec (159 in-lb), and replaced the spark plug wires with new MDS wires. (I have also tested the new wires, and they're fine.) Unless there is a difference between the factory plugs and the new spec plugs, I am at a loss to understand the reduction in fuel economy.

Does anyone know what the original plugs for the 2011 6.2L Raptor were? Neither the 2011 F0150 Owner's Guide nor the F-150 Raptor Supplement include the plug spec. They both say to "see your authorized dealer" - which is what I did!

 

[pat247]

@Ruger When I did the plugs on my Raptor, my research showed a difference in gap between 10-11 and 12-14. The 10-11 called for a gap of 39-43 while the gap for the 12-14 is 41-45.

 

[Blu Bug]

The time periods you referred to for the two mileage calculations are the same. From May to March is a long time to use for a reference due to possible errors in gallons bought and remembering exact driving conditions. .7 seems to be within the margin of error to me.