GEN 1 Shocks/Alignment...something else?

[MFNG]

Hey guys and gals,

I’ve been searching but haven’t found it yet so let me know if I missed it.

I got a ‘14 a few months ago, it needed an alignment for sure (pulling to the right, red wheel stripe had to be held off center to left to maintain lane) as well as needed new tires. The front right shock had a leak but I figured I could go a little (3k mi in so far) until I got them rebuilt. Just got spare rebuilds back from TSW but am waiting out the winter to put them on due to salt in my area.

I can’t think of anything else that might be causing my problem but this front right shock, let me know if you have other thoughts.

The recommended shop I used didn’t say anything about needing any new ball joints, tie rods, etc when I brought it in.

Tires were mounted and balanced, alignment done. Alignment still pulled very slightly right after but I figured it was just the shock. Now about 300 mi after I am pulling hard to the right again.

I don’t want to eat up the tires I just put on by driving it this way all winter, but also don’t want to swap the shocks yet if I don’t have to.

Am I missing something? Any suggestions are appreciated. I feel I have a basic understanding of the truck, but I’m no gear head so go easy.

Thanks for the help.

 

[B E N]

Take it back to the shop you had the work done at. They should stand by their work and be willing to do further inspections.

Most shops wont bother to check tie rods or ball joints when they do an alignment unless you specifically ask. They just want to throw it on the rack and get it in and out as quickly as possible.

 

[MFNG]

Take it back to the shop you had the work done at. They should stand by their work and be willing to do further inspections.

Most shops wont bother to check tie rods or ball joints when they do an alignment unless you specifically ask. They just want to throw it on the rack and get it in and out as quickly as possible.

Thanks @B E N. Bunch a bums, leaving money on the table.

 

[MFNG]

Take it back to the shop you had the work done at. They should stand by their work and be willing to do further inspections.

Most shops wont bother to check tie rods or ball joints when they do an alignment unless you specifically ask. They just want to throw it on the rack and get it in and out as quickly as possible.

Went back and the shop was only interested in charging for another alignment check.

Went to the place down the street that was recommended from the trusted local shop and alignment was good; they stated the front right tire just liked to pull right so they put it on the front left in addition to tighting up tolerances from prior alignment.

This did solve the issue mostly, but I still have pulling to the right very slightly. Should I be looking at something like this: https://www.steeda.com/SPC-Performa...mberCaster-Kit-F-150Raptor-09-14_p_13998.html

Has anyone else w a Gen1 (or Gen2) had issues w keeping alignment in check? Only light gravel road off-roading has been done - so far, but I want to get after it, just not confident until I get all the wonks out - and I don’t make it a habit of checking curbs or sending it on potholes.

*I do live in IL. Our roads are almost as crooked and broken as our politicians.

 

[MTF]

Several of our vendors on the forum sell there own bolt setup like the one you posted.
I was told they don't really help much for off-roading,
I guess it may help for street but a big pothole is going to make them move as well.
I've seen posts were guys are tack welding the plates on to make them stick.

I say, as long as they tighten the four lower control arm bolts to the correct specs you should be good.
I get a wheel alignment done about every year and half to two with tire rotation.
It's been only slightly out each time except for one time, I hit a pothole so deep I thought for sure I bent something.

Luckily I can go to @khcdave where they know Raptors and their wheel alignment rack is top notch, they have always done an excellent job.

If this is a real concern for you can get slot delete kits for the LCA and adjustable upper control arms.
Talk to @khcdave for info they make several different kinds of slot deletes setups.

 

[Riddick]

I have what your link shows and did what MTF stated and tack welded them. Hasn’t moved a mm the whole time I’ve had them on. I ran into the same issue with pulling to the right. Went to three different shops before finding one that knew Fords and Raptors. The owner worked for Ford for 20+ years. My 2 cents is find an alignment guy that can think outside the box. My alignment specs are outside what Ford calls for on our trucks but nothing that will damage the tires. I think he said ( and don’t quote me on this) he added more camber and very slight caster. I think he said caster is what kills the tires. I’ve been driving for several thousand miles now and tires are still in great shape without the pull.

 

[MFNG]

Several of our vendors on the forum sell there own bolt setup like the one you posted.
I was told they don't really help much for off-roading,
I guess it may help for street but a big pothole is going to make them move as well.
I've seen posts were guys are tack welding the plates on to make them stick.

I say, as long as they tighten the four lower control arm bolts to the correct specs you should be good.
I get a wheel alignment done about every year and half to two with tire rotation.
It's been only slightly out each time except for one time, I hit a pothole so deep I thought for sure I bent something.

Luckily I can go to @khcdave where they know Raptors and their wheel alignment rack is top notch, they have always done an excellent job.

If this is a real concern for you can get slot delete kits for the LCA and adjustable upper control arms.
Talk to @khcdave for info they make several different kinds of slot deletes setups.

I have what your link shows and did what MTF stated and tack welded them. Hasn’t moved a mm the whole time I’ve had them on. I ran into the same issue with pulling to the right. Went to three different shops before finding one that knew Fords and Raptors. The owner worked for Ford for 20+ years. My 2 cents is find an alignment guy that can think outside the box. My alignment specs are outside what Ford calls for on our trucks but nothing that will damage the tires. I think he said ( and don’t quote me on this) he added more camber and very slight caster. I think he said caster is what kills the tires. I’ve been driving for several thousand miles now and tires are still in great shape without the pull.

Great information gentlemen. I will act on it and provide feedback.

The nagging pulling to the right has me pissed off beyond belief. I look forward to the learning experience.

By the time I’m done w this I may open my own Raptor shop since it seems no one near me understands these vehicles!