GEN 1 Shock rebuild

[Gumby]

@Jhollowell Where are you filling PSI? 200-250? I have looked all over for the factory stickers. Do you know a place I can get the factory ones? the ones with the blue clear just don't look right.

 

[Jhollowell]

I’ve been doing 200psi per the rebuild thread in in the sticky section. You may want to try SDHQ for the stickers? I've never bought decals as i generally just leave them blank or i have my gf make me some custom ones and then i wrap the body with clear vinyl.

 

[2012SCSVT]

Kartek has some decals: https://www.kartek.com/parts/fox-sh...ck-small-1-x-69-fox-racing-shox-stickers.html

 

[Gumby]

Kartek has some decals: https://www.kartek.com/parts/fox-sh...ck-small-1-x-69-fox-racing-shox-stickers.html

Yes.....these are the ones I got... they are close to the factory sticker the Botton is completely different the top is close but dose not rap the shock completely. I have a guy making me a set local. We will see how they come out he has done Boat numbers for me in the past. I am confident he will do an excellent job.

 

[2012SCSVT]

Ah gotcha, hopefully your guy nails it

 

[Goose1942]

The fronts and rears are a little different.

Rear - Install IFP and push all the way down. Install bypass tube and fill with 28oz of fluid. SLOWLY cycle the IFP up and down a few inches to remove any trapped air. When no more bubbles come up when pushing the IFP down, the system is bled. Pull the IFP up a few inches to decrease the height of the fluid in the main body. This will help to not overflow fluid when you install the shaft and top cap. I install the shaft/top cap with the shaft fully extended. Once the top cap is tight, open the bleed screws, charge with Nitrogen and close the bleed screws when no more bubble come out. You can also let it sit for a few min after you open the bleed screws and let it vent naturally then add the nitro to push the IFP up and purge all the remaining air. The important thing is to fill it with enough fluid so that when you charge the system the IFP does not bottom out at the end of the chamber. if you fill the rear with 28oz you should be good. PS, don't forget to add the snap ring on the IFP cap before charging. That thing will come off like a missile... ask me how i know

Fronts - Install the IFP and and snap ring. Remove valve core or depress valve to push IFP down a few inches. Install bypass tube and fill with 20oz of fluid. Install top cap and shaft with shaft fully extended. open bleed screws and let it vent a few min. Charge with nitro and close bleed screws when no more bubbles are present. The fronts are a lot easier since most of the air is displaced when you pour the fluid in. But the same thing goes, make sure you don't top out the IFP when you charge it. 20oz is good for the fronts.

You could push the IFP all the way down/up (closest to the valve) before you charge it with nitro. That would purge all the "air" out and give you 100% nitro in the chamber.

Hopefully this helps. if not reach out again, i'm happy to help with this stuff and as you can see i don't mind giving a through explanation.

Do you know what the IFP bottoming out sounds like? I have a low clunk/thump at really low speeds like pulling in or out of my driveway. I can replicate it by pushing on the bumper or bouncing in the truck bed. If I push down or pull up slowly it’s almost a groaning sound. Two different rebuilders told me over the phone it was the IFP bottoming out. I rebuilt the shocks and pushed the IFP all the way down, filled with fluid, bled and then reinstalled main cap and shaft assembly. If it rose, it rose from installing the main piston. I didn’t pull it up more.
Anyway, I saw on another post you replaced the eyelet bushings too. I feel like this is what I’m hearing since it happens up and down and it’s not just a single “clunk” if I slowly compress or expand.
I plan to remove the shocks and try compressing them against the ground as well as inspecting the bushings closer (didn’t pay them much mind when I did the rebuild).
Any experience with either issue and the sound they create? The rebuilders know more than me here, but I just can’t accept that’s what it is. Thanks

 

[Jhollowell]

Do you know what the IFP bottoming out sounds like? I have a low clunk/thump at really low speeds like pulling in or out of my driveway. I can replicate it by pushing on the bumper or bouncing in the truck bed. If I push down or pull up slowly it’s almost a groaning sound. Two different rebuilders told me over the phone it was the IFP bottoming out. I rebuilt the shocks and pushed the IFP all the way down, filled with fluid, bled and then reinstalled main cap and shaft assembly. If it rose, it rose from installing the main piston. I didn’t pull it up more.
Anyway, I saw on another post you replaced the eyelet bushings too. I feel like this is what I’m hearing since it happens up and down and it’s not just a single “clunk” if I slowly compress or expand.
I plan to remove the shocks and try compressing them against the ground as well as inspecting the bushings closer (didn’t pay them much mind when I did the rebuild).
Any experience with either issue and the sound they create? The rebuilders know more than me here, but I just can’t accept that’s what it is. Thanks

I don't know what the IFP bottoming sounds like but that could be the culprit. If you bottomed the IFP out when you installed the main shaft, that could be the cause. After i cycle the IFP a few times to bleed the air, i pull it up a few inches, then install the shaft and top cap. If you filled it with at least 28oz you shouldn't bottom the IFP. If you can replicate it in the driveway i would have someone bounce in your bed as you lay under the truck and see if you can hear where its coming from. Replacing the rear bushings is a nightmare unless you can make a tapered sleeve tool to press the bushing in. otherwise you'll be hating life, ask me how i know. Is it happening on the front as well or just rear? i had a clunk in the front that was caused by a loose shaft nut.

 

[TomDirt]

And you took the time to replace those silly Fox valves with Schrader valves. Did you use the Shock Seals kit?

 

[Gumby]

And you took the time to replace those silly Fox valves with Schrader valves. Did you use the Shock Seals kit?

I get my shock rebuild stuff from here... https://www.schmidtyracing.com/Ford...Bypass-Shock-Seal-Kit-p/o-sk-fox-ford-rap.htm. I order kits that have Schrader valves. Then just tap the shock body. pretty easy. My truck now has Schrader valves for the set on the truck and the set I have on the bench. I really don't know how you can fill them with the stock plugs. and not loose a little.

 

[Jhollowell]

Have you looked at shock seals for the seal kits? Thats where i get my seals and i use Kartek for the valves, but i use the RPG valves so i don't have to drill and tap the shock. If you don't use the schrader valves you need a needle and then you fill it like a basketball. Problem with that is there's no way to know exactly how much pressure you put in. I have to crank my regulator up to almost 300psi to get 200 in the shock and i always check it with a gauge when i'm done. Also, as the nitro tank gets empty, do you need to increase the regulator pressure? IDK schrader valves are the ONLY way to do it in my opinion.

If anyone knows how they do it on the Gen 2 shocks, i'd love to see that operation. Gen 2 only have a screw and an O-Ring so there's no way to put a needle in there and fill. I'd love to see the contraption that fills the shock and plugs the hole without losing any pressure.