SDHQ rear cantilever & sprung under system....

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SDHQ

SDHQ

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Also, "clean usable controllable"? As opposed to...? I am also slightly confused on the full bump pic. I see what looks like a single leaf stack, and the full droop has what looks to be at least a 6 leaf pack.

sodirty answered the 1 leaf question.. And the spring pack that we are using is a 10 leaf pack.

Also, a prime example of fluffed numbers was rolled into my shop yesterday. This particular front end kit has a claimed 13.75" of front wheel travel. In reality it has 12.25", that 12.25" of travel is not all usable since at full droop it binds something fierce.

Are there no street legal fuel cells that would fit a Raptor?

It really depends on your local emission laws. Out here you would need to keep your charcoal canister and your stock filler to still pass.
 

pat'sRAPTOR

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any updates or pics on this awesome build?? im very very interested to see where this goes and maybe how much this will cost lol:drool:
 

Jake Y.

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I'm getting 16 and a half inches, w/ bumps and limit straps. If you give SDHQ a call they'll set you up with any other info you need too. I'm incredibly pleased with the rear end and the only bad thing is now it outperforms the front by a fair margin.
 

ktm505sx

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What is the different in performance vs a bed cage set up, if i dont care to loose bed space.

How do i set up the valves springs with this new mod? Dont see to much space for the tools
 

SDHQJASON

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If you don't mind losing bed space, going the bed cage route makes more sense. It is going to be much more cost effective and will still perform very well. My personal experience has been that the cantilever set up works better than a simple bed cage because the entire suspension systems moves with the wheel travel rather than just a shock that has to move up and down while swinging as the wheel travels up and down over terrain.

If by valve springs you are referring to the bypass tubes, what we do is lift the vehicle to make adjustments.
 
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