RPG front bypass upper mount pictures?

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Mjolnir

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Truck is going in Tuesday for all of its work. Does anyone have pictures of the RPG upper bypass plate mounts? They have to be welded on, and I would love a reference


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Raptizzle

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This is the best I have for now. Picking my truck up tomorrow and will get some more detailed pics for you.

C4E-C0BA8384F4E8-1321-000000A1A44A4205_zpsf4732bed.jpg

My advice is to speed up for the single downs at TRR with this setup. You will eat that shit up.
 

RPG

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I don't have any pics on the home computer but I am stopping by the shop tomorrow and will take some detailed pics for you. We have a mock up frame that we are using for a full install video.

Thanks

Jarrett
 
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Mjolnir

Mjolnir

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I don't have any pics on the home computer but I am stopping by the shop tomorrow and will take some detailed pics for you. We have a mock up frame that we are using for a full install video.

Thanks

Jarrett

Thanks Jarrett. Any word from National?


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RPG

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Peter,

Here are the pics

For everyone reading this, PLEASE READ CAREFULLY AND FOLLOW THE TIPS AND TRICKS PROVIDED.




1st step

You will want to cut the coil-bucket as follows. Note: this picture below show the lip that you want to remove. We only used this side of the coil-bucket because we forgot to take pics of the side you will be actually cutting. So for reference, the lip is the same, it just needs to be removed so you have a flat welding surface.
DSC_0005_zps779004a0.jpg


2nd step
For mock up purposes you would bolt up plate 1 to the coil bucket/arm mount.
DSC_0862_zpsb8ef25cb.jpg

3rd Step
put this contraption together as so, with a 1.5" spacer in between to make sure you have the correct shock spacing.
DSC_0861_zpsf98d501e.jpg

Step 4
Take plate #2 and mock it up to the frame with step #3 now through both plates. Make sure you put the shock spacer further towards the cab of the truck while still allowing for optimum welding surface. The further back, the better. The reason for this is because if the shock mount is to far forward the shock will rub on the plate #1


Step #5

Insert plate #3 between plate 1 and 2 with the chamfer towards plate #1. Plate #1 and #3 go corner to corner with the insert.

Step 6

Now that you have everything looking like the picture below, you would tack weld everything together but NOT to the frame.

NOTE: in the pictures we are using a dummy frame with free range of welding. When you are doing this with the motor in, you cant have 360 welding because of clearance issues.

Step7

Unbolt the shock mount from the frame and weld all three plates together 100% on a welding table.

Step 8
Bolt back into the frame and weld it to the frame in every location you can.

Example
DSC_0859_zpsf155773b.jpg
Note: The picture above is only of the beginning process. You will need to keep welding all over the thing.

Tips and tricks.

When you are inserting the shock mount spacer bolt, make sure you insert the bolt from the front to the back of the cab like so.
This picture shows the direction of how it would go on the drivers side. If you fail to do this step correctly, you will not be able to get the bolt back out once welded up...
DSC_0861_zpsf98d501e.jpg
Tips and Tricks #2
When bolting plate 1 to the arm mount, insert bolt from inside of coilbucket outwards towards the cab. Failure to do this will result in not being able to get the bolt back out.

Tip and Tricks #3
Before final installation of the main coilover, you will need to have the secondary bypass bolt already through or else you will not be able to reach it once the Fox 3.0 coilover is in. Trust us, we learned this the hard way.
 
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