Replacing just the speakers

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Macman

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What about a ring spacer around where the sub screws in, might give the extra space that's needed.
 
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ZBoater

ZBoater

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What about a ring spacer around where the sub screws in, might give the extra space that's needed.

It's not that it needs space, it's that there is not enough. :) When you put the Kicker in the enclosure, that protrusion on the bottom pushes up the woofer up about 1/8", and you can't screw it down.
 

justvettn

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When I got my Raptor, I was disappointed with the Sony system.
Tried changing speakers and tweeters, nothing fit right especially the tweeters, so I returned them.
I found out that the sirius stations did not have CD quality sound anyway so whats the point.
After breaking in the speakers and trying a CD the sound has much improved, so I will waste the money on other areas of the truck and leave the stereo alone.
 

apeezie289

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It's not that it needs space, it's that there is not enough. :) When you put the Kicker in the enclosure, that protrusion on the bottom pushes up the woofer up about 1/8", and you can't screw it down.


What if you added a spacer between the sub & box that could be sealed enough not to let air escape?


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ZBoater

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That might work. But the inability to secure the sub on the bottom concerns me. The 8 other screws are thin and screwed into plastic. It could rattle.
 

SVT N8

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That might work. But the inability to secure the sub on the bottom concerns me. The 8 other screws are thin and screwed into plastic. It could rattle.

I'd give it a shot. The screw in the bottom wouldn't concern me as 99% of the subs don't have it. The new sub has a much larger magnet making it heavier. You could also place thin metal washers around the plastic screw holes to make it stronger. If you get any vibration pick up some sound deadener and try to track down the trouble area(s). Just my .02
 

apeezie289

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Oh yeah, I did it in just under three hours, and I was slooooooww.



Be sure to have the right tools. A plastic trim tool and/or very thin flathead screwdriver to remove the plastic covers inside the door handles. A plastic trim remover will also make quick work of all the door switches and rear door trim.



Add about 30 minutes for the bio/beer break...


ZBoater-

See my pictures below. I'm having trouble getting that darn plastic cover plate off behind the door handle. I guess my trim tools aren't right?? de6enatu.jpgetahymyq.jpg


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justvettn

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I took my door panels off within days of buying the truck and had no special tools.
No special tools needed.
 
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ZBoater

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Yeah, those pieces are tricky. I was able to pry them off from the other end. I have a very thin plastic trim tool, but because of the angle you just can't pry it off. You need to separate it with a thin tool, then it stuck a thin flathead screwdriver in the gap to gain a little more leverage. With just a little pressure (remember you can't pry it off at that angle) the plastic bends a little and comes off.

One of the doors gave me a little more trouble and I used a hanger to try and pry it off from that same end you are trying. Didn't work for me. My plastic trim tool had lost it's sharp edge by the time I got to the last door, so I couldn't insert it and create the gap I needed to insert the flathead screwdriver. I had to sharpen my tool with sandpaper and then i was able to pry it off

All I can tell you is that this one is not about strength. It's just pressed in there, and it's the angle that makes it hard to gain the leverage you need. And try the right side, which is counterintuitive since there so much gap on the left where you are putting your tools. That end was a no go for me. Good luck!
 

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