Rear up travel.

[Canuck714]

So how much higher did you end up relocating the bump can from the other bump kit??.
I assume it was an older RPG version?
I would probably add a 1/2 or 3/4 inch more clearance before welding that location.
Tires have a ton of wobble and run out when spinning fast... They can grow and be taller than you think.

Z

 

[2012SCSVT]

The axle will be 2 3/4" higher at bump, metal to metal when compared to the truck with stock shocks at full bump.

The bump stop kit I removed was an older ready off road kit, very good quality the welds are beautiful compared to the rpg bypass rack I have. But, that kit had oem geometry and full bump was designed to protect the oem shocks.

I am building everything without the end caps in the bump stops, so once they are reinstalled I will have that extra 1/2" for a bit of a saftey factor.

 

[Canuck714]

The axle will be 2 3/4" higher at bump, metal to metal when compared to the truck with stock shocks at full bump.

The bump stop kit I removed was an older ready off road kit, very good quality the welds are beautiful compared to the rpg bypass rack I have. But, that kit had oem geometry and full bump was designed to protect the oem shocks.

I am building everything without the end caps in the bump stops, so once they are reinstalled I will have that extra 1/2" for a bit of a saftey factor.

Smart...

 

[2012SCSVT]

Quick update.

I have my rev2 lower shock mount back from Lazer.

These are moving the lower shock mount much further down and also forward. This is going to reduce the motion ratio and speed up the shocks, at the cost of overall travel. But the increase is shock speed will help with tuning the shock performance a bit.

Here is a comparison of the mount location vs the 16" shock rpg included tab:



And some pics for the update, maybe I'll have time tomorrow to do some more work!

 

[downforce137]

you are running an 18"?

you might be pushing the limits of the stock rear driveshaft, so be sure to check it out in both directions...might be time for a 2 piece bolted in unit..

 

[2012SCSVT]

you are running an 18"?

you might be pushing the limits of the stock rear driveshaft, so be sure to check it out in both directions...might be time for a 2 piece bolted in unit..

I'll be checking ✔
My shocks are 17.25" shaft travel also, I am building this with max uptravel as the goal I'm not as concerned about droop but hope to be able to use the entire shock. The shock is going to be mounted in a more vertical position when compared the original design of this bypass rack.

If I just swaped the 18" in for the 16 with out changing the upper and lower mount location it would have horrible up travel and way to much droop I'm not doing that.

 

[downforce137]

it was my understanding that the driveshaft starts becoming the limiting factor after an RST18... check to make sure...

nice to see someone showing us all what is possible with these trucks...

 

[TomDirt]

"I am building this with max uptravel as the goal I'm not as concerned about droop"

are you considering notching the frame or doing a "C" cut to increase uptravel? (Kibbetech has done that on their F150 builds, there's probably several sources for the parts needed to do that). It's a lot of work and might require cutting out the wheel wells for tire clearance, but increasing uptravel while staying close to stock height is just a beautiful thing .

 

[2012SCSVT]

"I am building this with max uptravel as the goal I'm not as concerned about droop"

are you considering notching the frame or doing a "C" cut to increase uptravel? (Kibbetech has done that on their F150 builds, there's probably several sources for the parts needed to do that). It's a lot of work and might require cutting out the wheel wells for tire clearance, but increasing uptravel while staying close to stock height is just a beautiful thing .

Okay, to be fair, by max uptravel I really mean for max up travel for stock frame. I have a few limiters that I plan to adhere to, 1. I do not want to do glass fenders.
I want stock width. F/R
2. I want to use the spring over set up because I tow a trailer to the desert. At this point I have decided not to do spring under.

So, like everyone, I am building something that suits my needs/budget, notching the frame would be for someone a level above me that wants spring under and fenders.

 

[TomDirt]

"I am building something that suits my budget".

Ok, who wants to tell him?