Rear door lock inop

[TrailWhale]

I have a 2012 super crew, and recently I noticed the drivers rear door lock was not working. It would not lock or unlock with either the door button or the key fob.
I replaced the lock actuator in the door, and it still will not work. I checked the wires at the connector, and I'm getting a signal on the violet/grey wire when I hit the unlock on the door or the key fob, I get no signal on the grey/black wire when hitting the lock or unlock (I'm taking this is for the lock signal), the green wire has constant voltage, and the black/violet is the ground.
Am I missing something here? I'm sure a new lock doesn't have to be programmed at the dealer......right???

All other doors work fine, so it has to be an issue between the security module/bcm, correct?

Any help is appreciated

Thanks!

 

[pillowsoft]

So you replaced the actuator and not there door latch?

Ive had this problem before but I replaced the door latch our to the latch seizing and just not allowing the door to be unlocked. The actuator was working it just couldn't overcome the force of the latch.


can you unlock the door by hand on the inside?

 

[J.Bodolay]

I have a 2012 super crew, and recently I noticed the drivers rear door lock was not working. It would not lock or unlock with either the door button or the key fob.
I replaced the lock actuator in the door, and it still will not work. I checked the wires at the connector, and I'm getting a signal on the violet/grey wire when I hit the unlock on the door or the key fob, I get no signal on the grey/black wire when hitting the lock or unlock (I'm taking this is for the lock signal), the green wire has constant voltage, and the black/violet is the ground.
Am I missing something here? I'm sure a new lock doesn't have to be programmed at the dealer......right???

All other doors work fine, so it has to be an issue between the security module/bcm, correct?

Any help is appreciated

Thanks!

For a 2012 Left Rear Door Lock:
1. Black/violet is the ground for the Door Ajar circuit
2. Green is the Door Ajar Detection. (when the door is closed, green is pulled down to ground back at the BCM
3. Violet/Grey and Grey/Black are your solenoid power circuit. They flip opposed to each other, one hot, the other ground depending on lock or unlock command via relays back at the Body Control Module.

All 4 of your lock signal wires (Grey/Black) tie together outside the BCM.
3 of the 4 unlock signal wires tie together (Violet/Grey) outside the BCM... Exception: The driver door unlock signal(Blu/Green) is an independent run to the BCM as it can be fired separately of the rest (keyless entry)

Hope that helps.

 

[TrailWhale]

Pillow-
The door lock button works fine, its the actual latch/solenoid/lock thing inside the door that's not working.
J.-
Thanks for the extra info, basically confirms everything I can find.

Ended up taking it to the dealer today, they found wiring inside the door to body boot that had become pinched and severed.
Service writer said they have seen this in this particular generation of F150s, and there is no rhyme or reason for it. Some trucks do it on the left door, others on the right, some not at all.
But for now all seems fine, and they all work properly.

Figured I'd let everyone know so maybe someone else with the problem can save a few bucks and do it themselves. I know if my other rear door goes out, I know what I'm checking first!

 

[Monan]

My Driver rear door just stopped unlocking like yours. I have noticed that the wire boot to the door is very stiff and folds up unlike the pass side. I will check the wires first.

Thanks
Mike

p.s. what did it cost at the Dealer?

 

[slosvt]

I had the same problem with my drivers side passenger door when I bought mine a few weeks ago. Wasn't able to lock it by using the switch, fob or manually. Ford told me I needed a new "door handle". Brought in the next day and an hr 30 later it works like new.

 

[Monan]

Here is what I found. Wire is broken and the plastic stiffener is bent. Now I need a new wiring harness.

 

[Ratpatator]

I had the same problem. Only there were two wires broke and two others about to break. I would suggest moving the stiffener towards the wire harness. There is a small grove or notch that the end will fit in. This will hopefully prevent future breakage.

Mine looked like they broke specifically because of the stiffener. They were broke right at the end where the stiffener forces the wires to bend only in one spot between it and the harness this seems like the root cause if Ford says there is no rhyme or reason I say they are full of shit just don't want to fess up to a problem. My passenger front door window intermittently works and then won't and I haven't pulled it apart but I bet it's the same thing there.

 

[Monan]

I replaced the wire harness, it was about $80.00. Watched a you tube video on how to remove door panel and didn't break anything more! It took about an hour to do.

 

[Nyjay]

Hi y'all, been reading and ***** about this issue but have not heard of a way to actually get the door open to r/r the wiring between the door and body. I know what the problem is with the lock but I just can't see a way to open the door to do it. Any help is appreciated mates


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