Rear differential rebuild

[1BAD454SSv2]

Go with Dana Spicer ujoints. Stay away from any Vatozone made china crap .

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=6130830&cc=1503276&jsn=616

 

[silver93t]

What U Joints did you end up going with? I about to replace mine and read your other comment on the size. Got me thinking I should double check on here but havent found much info.

OEM from Ford.

 

[Canuck714]

1410 Spicers with zerks

 

[tplee]

I've run Yukon gear sets in my last several front and rear end builds...although those were all GM corporate (10b and 14b/ff) and Dana series axles (44s and 60s). I've never built a Ford axle. But I'd trust Yukon gear sets. As for bearings, definitely don't skip out here! If you're a placing a worn gear set, definitely go ahead and replace the bearings! And I'd use only Timken bearings.

 

[tplee]

My hat is tipped to anyone who will rebuild their diff!

After reading up on the methods of adjusting the mesh of ring to pinion (and what happens if you get it wrong even a little bit) I decided it is one of the few things that I will not attempt. I've installed axles and wheel bearings more than once, but steer clear of the gears and leave them to an expert.

It's definitely not for the faint of heart, but it's totally doable. And doable with mostly basic home garage tools, save for a shop press, an inch pound torque wrench, and a dial gauge with a magnetic base. The inch pound torque wrench and the dial gauge with magnetic base can be had for pretty cheap... All for under $75 bucks or so, total. The shop press will run you around $500. Bearing race drivers, opinion depth tools, set up bearings, etc., are all nice-to-have items, but not a must.

 

[tplee]

1410 Spicers with zerks

Do 1410s actually fit the OEM yoke? Believe 1310s, or perhaps 1350s are typical half ton u-joints....but might be misremembering.

 

[Trick.Raptor]

Well update with my rear diff, at 107K it's worn out and will need to be replaced. We pulled the rear diff cover and there was a lot of shaved medal flakes (and some chunks) in the fluid. The rear diff is pretty noisy at low speeds...

My Raptor is still under warranty so it will go in on Monday and we'll see what the dealer has to say about it. My dealer has been really good to me and my rear axle is stock so it shouldn't be an issue with the warranty.

 

[COBRA90GT]

^ Was that something Forged Offroad found when you took it to them? Were you hearing the rear end howling or chatter at all?

Did you ever drain/refill with fresh gear oil prior to taking it to Forged?

 

[tplee]

Well update with my rear diff, at 107K it's worn out and will need to be replaced. We pulled the rear diff cover and there was a lot of shaved medal flakes (and some chunks) in the fluid. The rear diff is pretty noisy at low speeds...

My Raptor is still under warranty so it will go in on Monday and we'll see what the dealer has to say about it. My dealer has been really good to me and my rear axle is stock so it shouldn't be an issue with the warranty.

A 2013 with 100+k mileage. Nice warranty!

Hoping you do get it covered. 6 years and 100k miles is too soon for a gear failure for a truck that doesn't routinely haul at or near max heavy loads.

Sent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk

 

[Trick.Raptor]

A 2013 with 100+k mileage. Nice warrantee!

Hoping you do get it covered. 6 years and 100k miles is too soon for a gear failure for a truck that doesn't routinely haul at or near max heavy loads.

Sent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk

My Ford ESP is good until 136k and time wise I think 2 more years.

Diff/locker works as it should its just making a low speed groaning noise. I used a friends lift at his shop to take a look at it (I meaning the master mechanic owner standing behind me!) and what he pointed out was how the teeth were dull not shiny and the metallic fluid that I drained. According to him he said its just wore out.

Local dealers know him very well and usually honor his assessment so I should be OK with the warranty work.

Oh and the Raptor does see tow duty

--