GEN 2 Radar Hard Wire (******)

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Just thought I would share a few pics and notes about my install.

Parts used:
  • Blend Mount (Model# BBE-3030)
  • Add-A-Fuse (Autozone)
  • ****** Wiring Kit (Amazon)

The Blend Mount is a really nice piece of kit. Light, strong, and seems very well built. I was tempted to try some cheaper alternatives but I am glad I didn't. Not only is it well built it also puts the radar in just the right position...tucked up enough to be out of the way but accessible enough to hit the mute button when needed.

First I wired up the ****** wire to the fuse block using the included wire tap. This is as easy as it gets - no cutting or splicing anything. I has to trim the clear plastic shroud a bit so it would snug up.
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Then plugged it into fuse #36 which is switched by the key. I used the nearby metal nut to ground it. Pretty obvious which one once you get in there.
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Then I started at the radar itself to ensure I left just enough wire without having any extra to deal with. All of the extra wiring tucks nicely inside the fuse box area.

In order to make for a very clean install I popped off the plastic cover to the mirror housing and fished the wire down in there and out the hole for the mirror adjuster. It does not interfere at all with adjusting the mirror and I didn't have to modify the housing at all (no drilling a hole). I am very hapy with how this turned out.
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Then I popped that cover back on and installed the mount per directions provided. Very simple.
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Then it was a simple matter of stuffing the wiring up into the headliner and just running it down, under the A-pillar transition piece, down under the rubber seal to the door, and then tuck into the fuse box area.

Finished product. Super clean and totally reversible if desired.
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hazeleyes

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Perfect timing on this post -- my truck is due in very soon and I'm going to be doing the same thing for my ****** (I have the same one as you, looks like). Do you mind sharing how you ran the wire between the fuse box and the mirror mount?

Nice job, looks perfect!
 

CSJr

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Nice write up. I'd also suggest to anyone needing to wire to the fuse box that they consider using the aux pass through wires in the right bottom kick out panel. Those lead straight to the fuse box. So if you do not need all 6 aux wires to switch something on in to the cabin, you can repurpose a couple of these to lead power inside your vehicle from the fuse box. ( of course not connecting the pass through wire to the hot switch wire)

I call this the Save-A-Switch-Repurpose-A-Wire method.
 
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Perfect timing on this post -- my truck is due in very soon and I'm going to be doing the same thing for my ****** (I have the same one as you, looks like). Do you mind sharing how you ran the wire between the fuse box and the mirror mount?

Nice job, looks perfect!

Glad I could help.

I literally just tucked the wire up inside the edge of the headliner where it meets the windshield and ran it fro the mirror over to the passenger side A-pillar. At that point it tucks under the A-pillar plastic cover towards the door. There it starts to tucks under the rubber seal for the door all the way down to the floor where it tucks under and into the fuse box area. Start with the mirror area so you don't end up with a bunch of extra cable to deal with at the radar detector.

---------- Post added at 01:44 AM ---------- Previous post was at 01:43 AM ----------

Nice write up. I'd also suggest to anyone needing to wire to the fuse box that they consider using the aux pass through wires in the right bottom kick out panel. Those lead straight to the fuse box. So if you do not need all 6 aux wires to switch something on in to the cabin, you can repurpose a couple of these to lead power inside your vehicle from the fuse box. ( of course not connecting the pass through wire to the hot switch wire)

I call this the Save-A-Switch-Repurpose-A-Wire method.

I thought about this method as well. I already used 3 of my 6 switches and have day dreams of even more LED's so I thought I would save them for potential later use.
 

hazeleyes

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Glad I could help.

I literally just tucked the wire up inside the edge of the headliner where it meets the windshield and ran it fro the mirror over to the passenger side A-pillar. At that point it tucks under the A-pillar plastic cover towards the door. There it starts to tucks under the rubber seal for the door all the way down to the floor where it tucks under and into the fuse box area. Start with the mirror area so you don't end up with a bunch of extra cable to deal with at the radar detector.

---------- Post added at 01:44 AM ---------- Previous post was at 01:43 AM ----------



I thought about this method as well. I already used 3 of my 6 switches and have day dreams of even more LED's so I thought I would save them for potential later use.

Thanks! Going to give it a go when my truck arrives -- I've always hated the wire for my ****** hanging down from the windshield on my current car.

I have dreams of many, many accessories as well, and I've been looking at this as a solution to the "I ONLY HAVE 6 SWITCHES!" issue: SwitchPros SP-9100 plus SwarfWorks' overhead mount. Expensive, but 8 more circuits!!
 

CSJr

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I thought about this method as well. I already used 3 of my 6 switches and have day dreams of even more LED's so I thought I would save them for potential later use.

There may be a misunderstanding. Even if you use all 6 of your upfitters for LEDs outside of the truck, you will still ha e 6 passthrough wires that are unused that feed back into the truck. The passthroughs are just to route upfitter power back into the truck. If they are not connected to the hot upfitter, they are essentially unpowered wires that start near the fuse box and end inside the right kick out panel in the vehicle. I was saying these wires are a good source to bring wire managed battery power into the vehicle for electronics.
 
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There may be a misunderstanding. Even if you use all 6 of your upfitters for LEDs outside of the truck, you will still ha e 6 passthrough wires that are unused that feed back into the truck. The passthroughs are just to route upfitter power back into the truck. If they are not connected to the hot upfitter, they are essentially unpowered wires that start near the fuse box and end inside the right kick out panel in the vehicle. I was saying these wires are a good source to bring wire managed battery power into the vehicle for electronics.

Doh! Yes, of course that makes much more sense. This would be another easy way to go.
 

atl_raptor

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Hey y'all,

First post, but long time looker. Finally got a 17 Magnetic Scab the other week and this is how I mounted my radar. Same fuse as OP. Mounted on a bracket on the dash in the little crease and ran the mute button down into the driver side cubby pocket. No wires can be seen except for the short bit coming out of the dash. Was a pain running power through the dash/center console, but overall I'm happy with the install.
 

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