Pass thru wires

[Squatting Dog]

maybe i am underthinking this....

BUT

Why hasn't anyone try to pull new/longer wires?

remove the splice under the dash and instead splice under switch panel? Use the OEM pass through wires to pull new wires into the engine compartment?

 

[JP7]

I started the wiring for my lightbar last night. I will say that connecting the wires under the dash is the worst part of the job. If only they had made them a couple of inches longer... Anyone have any tips / tricks to make this part of the job easier?

Yeah you can cut some of the tape holding the bundle together to get a few more inches.

Do yourself a favor though, while your doing it do them all at once. I was in there 3 times, lol.

I removed the tape from two locations, and managed to yank the whole mess out about 6" to safely solder and put heatshrink on them. It took me almost as long to mess with the tape as it did to solder all 4.

Here's a pic of them yanked out.

 

[KaiserM715]

Getting some good info here!! Keep it coming...

---------- Post added at 03:09 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:08 PM ----------

Why hasn't anyone try to pull new/longer wires?

remove the splice under the dash and instead splice under switch panel? Use the OEM pass through wires to pull new wires into the engine compartment?

That is not a bad idea, Greg. I guess it would depend on how tightly they wrapped the stock harness bundle. It it is tightly wrapped, pulling wire through it would be pretty tough.

---------- Post added at 03:10 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:09 PM ----------

I removed the tape from two locations, and managed to yank the whole mess out about 6" to safely solder and put heatshrink on them. It took me almost as long to mess with the tape as it did to solder all 4.

^^I think I found my solution when I do the other 3...

 

[Squatting Dog]

Getting some good info here!! Keep it coming...

---------- Post added at 03:09 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:08 PM ----------


That is not a bad idea, Greg. I guess it would depend on how tightly they wrapped the stock harness bundle. It it is tightly wrapped, pulling wire through it would be pretty tough.

Being an electrician to me it just seems simplier to pull new wire.. From the source (switch) to the load (lights) and eliminating additional connections and points of failure..

When I wire up my 4" feugo hid lights. I will try this and report results.

-Greg

 

[Dane]

Possibly silly question since I know just enough about electricity to be dangerous. Where are those fuses in the scheme of things? I don't mean physically, I mean in the circuit. Say I wanted to wire Aux 1 to one of the 10amp switches (3 or 4 - the small spade types, I forget which is which but I know where to find it so that part isn't important), can I just connect the Aux 1 wire to the correct (3 or 4) wire by the glove compartment, or are the relays prior to the Aux switches and the glove compartment to hood wires are just strands of wire that go nowhere so it doesn't matter how you wire it up under the glove compartment? I'm going to be installing some lights that have very little draw, so using the big relays for them seems like something I'll regret if I ever add a mod with a larger draw, but having only Aux 3 do something while 1 and 2 are empty seems weird.

From what I'm understanding, the wires ARE simply pass through and all of the fusing is ahead of the switches, so if I wanted 10amp on Aux 1, I would have to swap the fuse.

 

[iSurvive]

Possibly silly question since I know just enough about electricity to be dangerous. Where are those fuses in the scheme of things? I don't mean physically, I mean in the circuit. Say I wanted to wire Aux 1 to one of the 10amp switches (3 or 4 - the small spade types, I forget which is which but I know where to find it so that part isn't important), can I just connect the Aux 1 wire to the correct (3 or 4) wire by the glove compartment, or are the relays prior to the Aux switches and the glove compartment to hood wires are just strands of wire that go nowhere so it doesn't matter how you wire it up under the glove compartment? I'm going to be installing some lights that have very little draw, so using the big relays for them seems like something I'll regret if I ever add a mod with a larger draw, but having only Aux 3 do something while 1 and 2 are empty seems weird.

From what I'm understanding, the wires ARE simply pass through and all of the fusing is ahead of the switches, so if I wanted 10amp on Aux 1, I would have to swap the fuse.

The switch and the fuse are tied together. The wires under the glove box are nothing more than strips of wire that pass through to the engine compartment. They are not all the same gauge, so I guess you could be more particular about which wire you decide to use for each aux item you install.

The fuses do pose a problem, because the fat mini-blade low-profile fuses don't come in less than 30 or 40 amps.

There are also waterproof inline fuses that some people are using as part of the wiring. This would protect the equipment from too many amps.

You MIGHT be able to move the switches to different positions or the plugs that go into the bottom of each switch. Ask around about that option??

 

[Dane]

The switch and the fuse are tied together. The wires under the glove box are nothing more than strips of wire that pass through to the engine compartment. They are not all the same gauge, so I guess you could be more particular about which wire you decide to use for each aux item you install.

The fuses do pose a problem, because the fat mini-blade low-profile fuses don't come in less than 30 or 40 amps.

There are also waterproof inline fuses that some people are using as part of the wiring. This would protect the equipment from too many amps.

You MIGHT be able to move the switches to different positions or the plugs that go into the bottom of each switch. Ask around about that option??

Thanks, that's what I want to know. It isn't important enough to me to get really crazy, so I'll probably just use the 3 or 4 for my small draw one. It's my truck, I'll get used to it. It just gives me more motivation to put something big on the first two.

 

[iSurvive]

I have the 40" Rigid LED on switch #3 with a 15 amp fuse. Unless you have some crazy AUX item installed, almost none of them need more than 15 amps, 20 max. I am speaking from experience, NOT education or special skills.

I have a 20" on switch #1, and four Rigid Dually's on switch #2. The 40" switch #3, and VisionX 6" HIDs on switch #4.

I wanted the lights I would use least (highway driving) farthest away. I have already seared a few driver's retinas, so I need to be careful.