How To Offroad in your Raptor!

[BlueSVT]

Over the past year of owning my truck, I have logged 30,000 miles, a large percentage which has been off road. At the request of a few members, I figured it was time to share some tips and tricks I've learned from this truck, as well as other off road experience over the years.
Hopefully, this thread will help new owners get an idea of what they're in for, and some tips that may help fellow owners out down the road. A lot of people jump into this hobby with little knowledge of the truck, the sport, and at times the danger involved.

Basic Off-Road Preparation

There are MANY areas to cover when it comes to precautions to take before off-roading. Everything from truck preparation to "what-if" prediction is very important when planning your off road trip. I will cover a few key areas that are critical when planning any off road trip.

Route Preparation

o Planning your route is one of the most important steps when planning an off road trip. Not only the planning of the route itself, but the knowledge of the terrain and hazards along the route are very important to know before-hand if possible.

o Where did you hear about this route? How old is the information? Has this been done in 1/2-ton trucks, or are these Jeep trails? All of these questions are important to ask, as you will come across many trails in your Raptor that you will NOT be able to crawl through, that many other 4x4 vehicles have likely passed through. This truck is NOT a rock crawler, although mild-moderate rock crawling IS possible with the proper precautions and a great spotter!

o How far to nearest gas? These trucks are NOT economical. Plan your gas stops at no longer than 150 miles for a Scab, and 200 miles for a Screw! I have averaged 6 MPG off road on many trips!

o Print hard-copies of trails when driving through unfamiliar territory! The factory navigation is great, and even includes many off road trails. However, electronics are NOT 100% reliable, and it’s a great idea to have a back-up GPS, or actual printed material of the area you’re riding in. Even a basic google map outline can be very helpful when the road on your navigation disappears (which happens quite often).

o TELL SOMEBODY WHERE YOU ARE GOING!!! This seems obvious, but it’s surprising how many people venture off into the wilderness without letting anybody know where they’re going. Even in a group of people, somebody OUTSIDE the group should always know your general whereabouts. Even if that means the “Starting” point of your trip, and eventual target “Finish” point, these are VERY helpful to would-be rescuers if you have unforeseen issues.

o When possible, always go with at least 2 vehicles! For obvious reasons, this is one of the best points to follow. I break this rule at times, but I also have the proper precautions in place, as I talk about below.​

Truck Preparation

Truck preparation is every bit as important as route preparation. Without a properly prepared vehicle, the likelihood of needing assistance or having trouble on the train increases dramatically.


It’s surprising the amount of things that can happen on the trail, but with basic tools and supplies, you can get yourself out of many situations! Before heading out, the following items are VERY important that you bring along with you, in your vehicle:

- Tools: Basic tool kit (socket set, crescents, screwdrivers, pliers, etc)
- Extra spare tire and Plug Kit (plugs have saved me more than once)
- 5-gallons of extra fuel
- Proper jack (factory jack nearly useless except on hard level ground)
- Tow Strap (20ft+)/Shackles for tow hooks
- Fire Extinguisher
- Ratchet Straps (handy for a variety of purposes)
- First Aid kit (I also carry a snake-bite kit, being in Southwest)
- Air Compressor or Power Tank (I love my Power Tank!!!)
- Water (I usually carry 5-gallons of fresh water in bed)
- Food – Energy Bars, Beef Jerky, etc (easy to pack, high in protein)
- Radio – Truck to truck communication is key in groups!​

With the basic list of items above, you will be well prepared for your outing. I would say those are the MINIMUM items I would carry, and usually bring more than what’s listed above. This should be the first set of items any new Raptor owner purchases, if they actually intend to use the truck off road. Along with the items themselves, a proper storage method and safe mounting is also very important!

All items in-cab should be secured in some fashion. Most of my items in-cab are wedged under the rear SCAB seats, so tight that they can’t move even 1” when hard off-roading. A BETTER solution is an under-seat storage box like the Tuffy under-seat storage boxes, etc. Remember, anything not properly secured becomes a flying object if you have a serious accident or rollover! A proper bed storage solution is truly a must for any serious off roader. Ask anybody that has been on a Raptor run without one! A proper bed rack not only is safer, more efficient, and purpose-built… but it saves time and is much easier to organize your stuff!

Check your truck! Do a once-over on any nut/bolt you can easily get your hands on. Check lug nuts, A-Arm bolts, tie-rod connections, shock mounts, etc. Things find a way of loosening themselves on the trail! Check ALL fluids, ensure they’re topped off in the normal operating range. Ensure you have a clean air-filter, paper filters should be used as they are easy to “beat out” and clean on the trail, and are very robust! It’s a great idea to carry a spare air filter. Oiled filters tend to collect the dirt/dust easier and they cannot be easily cleaned on the trail.

Although not required, I carry a Spot GPS messenger with me. I do pre-run alone (with passenger) at times, and this device allows you to contact your friends or search and rescue if you have an issue. You can send a text from anywhere, even without cell reception. It’s great piece of mind, and also can be used to track your progress on the trail!

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---------- Post added at 12:30 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:29 PM ----------

Truck Add-ons and Set-Up

By now, many of us have learned as they say “The hard way” about what are now well-known weak points of this vehicle. The issue that comes into play, is the fact these trucks are perceived to be desert pre-runners capable of high speed jumps and bumps. While this is “sort of” true, the limitations of this vehicle off road can be quickly identified by those pushing the trucks beyond their designed limitations. When I say design limitations, I’m referring to 100% factory form. With a few modifications, these trucks can truly shine off road, and are far more capable then they are in stock form.

Rear Frame Support

o By now, we have all heard about the infamous rear frame issue, and how they can bend under stress. This is one of the biggest inherent issues from the factory. As we now know, high speed/high inertia impacts from the rear axle are absorbed into the factory bump stop (a small rubber puck), which is mounted under the frame. Once this energy is beyond the factory bump stop’s capability to absorb, that energy is transferred into the frame in this location, causing metal fatigue, and eventually a bend in the frame in this location.

o There are now a variety of companies who have created a rear-frame reinforcement kit that has virtually eliminated this issue from occurring. These kits relocate the “Bump Stop” from under the frame, and instead use a hydraulic bump stop to absorb these impacts, and disperse the energy elsewhere. These are well worth their money, and can be considered an investment for those that off road, as it will preserve the integrity of your frame!

o Does this need to be installed on every Raptor going Off Road? No. For those that will only drive low-speed on groomed trails, and some occasional off road exploring, this is NOT a necessity when setting up your Raptor. For drivers that will be more aggressive, drive at higher speeds (anything above 35-40 MPH), and push the trucks a bit harder, this is a must-have modification! On the last Raptor Expedition, only one truck did NOT have this kit installed, and there were signs of frame deformation by the end of the run. It’s unfortunate, but by now we should all know better!

​

Front shock “Perch” setting

o The Raptor has a factory adjustable front shock pre-load setting. This allows the user to change the Pre-Load (the amount the spring is compressed inside the shock), which in turn also changes the ride height of the vehicle. In addition, more pre-load increases the resistance of the shock, meaning less change of bottoming out on hard impacts. The downside to too much pre-load, is that the ride becomes stiffer and can even cause a “Pogo-Stick” effect if the shock is not valved properly.

o There are 3 adjustments on the shock from the factory. The truck comes in stock form on the lowest setting. This is the most comfortable on-road setting, and gives the truck a slight downward rake in the front. Downside to the lower setting is the fact it is VERY prone to bottoming out when off road, as the stock shocks are very soft and do not resist hard impacts well. The “Middle” setting is usually the most common setting owners change to. This setting gives the truck a fairly level stance. This setting is more resistant to bottoming out, and is well suited for on-road driving as well, as the smoothness of the suspension is mostly retained. The “Upper” setting gives the truck an upward rake in the nose, and can sometimes cause a bit of extra stiffness on the road. The extra pre-load can be helpful for hard off road impacts, with some owners reporting the “pogo” effect as the rebound valving is very loose in stock form. Also, a camber kit is required for this upper setting. My recommendation for most owners? Middle setting.

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Other Mods

o There are a wide variety of modifications that will help these trucks perform well off road. Too many to list! While some are cosmetic only, others are not only cosmetic, but functional as well! It’s important to prioritize the mods you put on your truck, based on your level of off-roading to be performed.

o Bumpers. Many aftermarket bumpers not only look great, but provide additional protection as well. Many front bumpers have a much stronger skid plate than the factory, which is easy to bend! The rear bumpers can also add extra strength, and in some cases increase your rear approach angle, which can be very helpful.

Springs can be helpful to those who drive at high speeds off road, in many cases these springs reduce the amount of “donkey kick” these trucks experience when hitting a bump or obstacle at speed. I have a Deaver +3” pack installed in my truck, which allows the truck to sit mostly level when the rear is fully loaded, and also has prevented most of the donkey kick associated with the stock shocks and stock springs.​

 

[BlueSVT]

Off-Road Driving

Now that your truck is set-up, your route is planned, and you’re prepped ready for the trail… we should talk about driving! All the preparation and planning in the world means nothing, if you’re driving these trucks unsafely and beyond their limits. These are still ½ ton trucks that are VERY prone to serious mechanical damage if driven improperly. Below are some helpful tips and driving methods that I have learned since owning this truck. Keep in mind, my advice below is for the AVERAGE driver, not for the Robby Gordon wanna-be’s out there!

Trail Knowledge

o Realistically, we can’t always pre-run every mile of desert road that we want to explore. Most owners will take these trucks on trails they have heard of from friends, seen online, or maybe have driven on ATVs or Dirtbikes in the past. It’s important to remember that the speed you carry should always allow you to SAFELY slow down for an obstacle within’ a few hundred feet.

o On pavement, these trucks cans top from 60 MPH to 0 MPH in about 133-feet. From 30 MPH to 0 MPH is only 35 feet or so! At 60 MPH on dirt, you can expect about 160+ feet. 160-feet is a LONG distance, about half a football field. To spot a sudden dip, washout, or kicker from 160-feet is not always an easy task, especially at high-noon when there are no shadows! Alternately, 40-45 MPH is a great cruising speed in these trucks. Your stopping distance is GREATLY improved, likely in the 80-foot range, which is half of the distance needed at 60 MPH! At speeds above 60, this distance increases even more, and should only be attempted on a pre-run course.

o A passenger is invaluable when driving at speeds off road. They can help spot obstacles in the road, spot your vehicle when performing low-speed crawling, and also navigate the trail for you. Always bring a passenger, when possible!​

Truck Electronics

o Off Road Mode: This is one of the most useful tools Ford has given us in these trucks! What does it do? It does a few behind-the-scenes activities such as decreasing ABS sensitivity, allowing rear-diff lock at any speed, etc. But the most noticeable difference to the driver is the pedal calibration change. I recommend all owners use this when doing “aggressive” off road driving, for the reasons noted below. For those of you who just cruise the trails at low-moderate speeds, you will not take advantage of this mode, and should just leave it off.​

§ When on-road, your gas pedal is NOT a linear 0-100% calibration in relationship to the pedal position. On the street roughly 75% of the trucks power is on tap, when only half the pedal is depressed. The last 25% of the pedal travel is used mostly for transmission kick-down logic and the remaining engine power.

§ When off-road mode is enabled, the pedal has almost the opposite effect! The pedal position is directly related to the speed you are travelling. The logic will HOLD the speed, at a set pedal position. Meaning, if you’re in 2nd gear with the pedal pressed half-way down at 35 MPH… the truck will HOLD the speed of 35 MPH even though you’re pressing the pedal half-way! It will only increase speed as you press the pedal further down. Eventually, as you make your way to the last 20% of pedal travel, this is when the truck applies full power, and will eventually upshift when you approach red-line.

§ What does this mean? This allows you very fine control of the trucks behavior and power. There are no surprise shifts… no surprise engine revs… you have full control over the power going to the ground, and you can fully predict how small pedal movements will affect the trucks power output. This is invaluable in high speed corners, when a sudden shift or change in power could make the truck suddenly unstable, and unpredictable.​

o Rear Differential Lock: One of the great things about this truck, is the ability to lock the rear differential on demand (when Off-Road mode is enabled). Doing this allows for more predictable control of the rear end of the truck, and how it will behave. Pulling the 4x4 selector knob out towards you, activates the rear electronic diff.​

§ Rear Lock ON: This locks the rear wheels rotation together. This is helpful when low speed rock crawling, but for this trucks design, it’s purpose is much more useful. Locking the rear wheels on a vehicle actually “decreases” it’s traction in the turns. Why? Because the inside wheel will always break traction in a turn, as the outside wheel speed is greater. In this truck, locking the differential makes for EASY drifting in the corners. The truck slides around much easier with the tap of the gas in the corners, for the reasons mentioned above. This should only be used at high speed by experienced drivers that are ready to take on drifting through the turns. The reason this is locked out unless you’re in off road mode, is because it can be dangerous at high speeds in low traction road conditions such as rain or snow.

§ Rear Lock OFF: This allows the rear wheels to spin independently of each other, like a standard open differential. This is NOT a limited slip differential, so the wheel with less traction will spin freely. This inherently makes the truck MORE stable at higher speeds and in the corners, as the wheels will track independently. This is also better for low traction conditions such as rain, and snow, contrary to what you may think.​

o Traction Control: The truck has some fairly advanced methods of providing traction control in a variety of ways. Depending on your experience level, this is very important to ensure the correct traction setting is engaged while driving off road. There are three modes, which I will describe below in detail. The AdvanceTrac system behaves differently, based on whether or not you have off-road mode ON or OFF. For the purposes below, I’m describing it’s effects with Off-Road mode ON.​

§ AdvanceTrac Enabled: This is the default setting when you turn on the truck. Everything on, everything active. This will limit engine power when it detects the wheels are slipping, and also correct slides when it detects abnormal sway. This mode is not recommended off-road, as it interferes too much with any wheel spin, even when accelerating from a stop.

§ AdvanceTrac Sport: This is the mode which is selected from a simple “Push and release” of the traction button. This will allow the tires to spin under low traction, and in corners. This will also allow for abnormal sway, such as a drift in the corner, but still retains a “Moderate” level of control when it detects you are over-correcting in a perceived out-of-control situation. In my experience, I’ve found this is the BEST setting for the “Average” driver. You can still get the truck sideways, still spin the tires, but when it detects you’re over-correcting, it straightens the truck right out! It’s incredible how well it works. This is ideal for high speed drifting when you’re learning the truck, as it will correct the truck if it detects a loss of control through the trucks steering position sensors.

§ AdvanceTrac Disabled: This is the mode that is accessed through HOLDING the traction button for 5-7 seconds until you see the “Disabled” notification (on the ‘10s I believe the track marks flash?). This mode basically turns off most assists, although there are still some excessive wheel spin logic inhibitors that have been noted in extreme low traction, such as sand. This will allow the truck to spin as much as you want… there is no interference for sway control, and no correction! This can be enjoyed most by experienced drivers, and should NOT be used by new Raptor owners that haven’t spent much time in Sport mode yet.​

Basic Truck Handling

o Brake before corners, gas through them! If and when possible, it’s always best to brake before entering the corner. While your truck is under braking, the rear end becomes very light. While braking into a turn, a light rear end can have the tendency to lose traction and swing around, causing an un-intentional drift and loss of control. More advanced drivers use this to their advantage, and help set the truck up for a drift by purposely braking to swing the rear end around. Using the gas in the corner gives you more precise control of the vehicle and a controlled drift using the gas pedal and SMALL amounts of wheel input.

o Never brake into an obstacle! If you see a large obstacle, dip, or ditch approaching, the best strategy is to QUICKLY brake hard and fast… and release brakes (apply gas if possible) shortly before hitting the obstacle. When braking, the front end dips and compresses the suspension… hitting an obstacle under braking can cause serious damage to your truck! Applying throttle lightens up the front end, and allows more suspension travel to soak up the obstacle.

o Under-steer is sometimes un-avoidable! These truck have the tendency to under-steer, especially when you’re off the gas or brake and trying to cruise through a high speed turn. You never want to just keep turning the wheel if you’re experiencing under-steer… you want to pull back to center, and try to “coax” the truck to the intended direction through throttle input if possible.

o Aim the wheel straight, and commit! If you’re losing control and about to leave the trail, you ALWAYS want to exit the trail or hit the berm with the wheels STRAIGHT!!! This will avoid MAJOR damage to your suspension, and you’ll be able to still drive home… it’s hard to commit, but if you know you’re not making the turn, just accept it, straighten the wheel out, and do your best to perform controlled braking to stop the vehicle, even if that means a short detour off the beaten path.

o Throttle is your friend! In time, you’ll learn that the best way to maneuver these trucks through the turns is with a small amount of steering input, with large amounts of throttle, sliding the rear end through the turns. This obviously mostly applies to the owners that will be using the Raptor in the desert, as it was intended! It takes practice, but over time this is an invaluable skill to master.

o Tire preservation can be important! When driving on sharp rocks, hill climbs, loose shale, etc… the best thing to do is engage the 4x4-High system. This takes a tremendous amount of stress off the rear tires, and will result in fewer slashes, punctures, and less worn tires!

o Small jumps = Bad News! When trying to find the best jump for your truck, you NEVER want to jump anything smaller than the wheelbase of your truck. Meaning, the rear wheels should already be on the upward travel of the “jump” before your front tires are airborne. Any time you attempt a jump smaller than the wheelbase of the truck, your front end WILL nose dive! This is because the front end is already airborne and independent of the rear, when the rear suddenly gets pushed up into the air... Depending on the speed and height of the jump, this can result in serious front end damage! The goal is a nice, long, sweeping jump that allows the rear travel to also slightly compress before the front end is airborne, which will allow for a nice 4-wheel landing.​

I hope this gives some new owners a small amount of insight and knowledge into some basic guidelines that will help make your off road trips more successful. I will likely be adding to this down the road, so if there are any other suggestions or information you guys would like to see, I’d be happy to add it! With anything, COMMON SENSE goes a long way guys… Remember, even experienced drivers get bitten once and a while by making stupid mistakes!

 

[BlueSVT]

Be safe, and always drive within your limitations, and the trucks limitations as well!

 

[IRONMAN]

Great write up...

 

[KaiserM715]

Excellent write-up!!

o Never brake into an obstacle! If you see a large obstacle, dip, or ditch approaching, the best strategy is to QUICKLY brake hard and fast… and release brakes (apply gas if possible) shortly before hitting the obstacle. When braking, the front end dips and compresses the suspension… hitting an obstacle under braking can cause serious damage to your truck! Applying throttle lightens up the front end, and allows more suspension travel to soak up the obstacle.​

After the Texas Run, I would also add to brake before rocky sections so that you can coast through them. This will unload the suspension (esp the front) to allow it to work for you. In addition, hard braking in rocks tends to churn them up and could lead to an increase risk of puncture (depending on the type of rocks).
​

 

[jolsen]

Thanks for info Blue, every bit helps.

 

[whisler151]

Great write up.

 

[Wilson]

o Rear Differential Lock: One of the great things about this truck, is the ability to lock the rear differential on demand (when Off-Road mode is enabled). Doing this allows for more predictable control of the rear end of the truck, and how it will behave. Pulling the 4x4 selector knob out towards you, activates the rear electronic diff

Am I understanding this correctly you think the differential lock only works while the off-road mode is enabled. If so I would say I have locked my differential and it stays on under a certain mph so yes it is a concern if it gets pulled by kids or forgotten and you find your self on slippery roads. so I have not read in the manual or remembered if the differential stays locked at high speeds if in off road mode yes but if not no until you slow to under 5mph then reengages any way know your truck.

 

[BlueSVT]

o Rear Differential Lock: One of the great things about this truck, is the ability to lock the rear differential on demand (when Off-Road mode is enabled). Doing this allows for more predictable control of the rear end of the truck, and how it will behave. Pulling the 4x4 selector knob out towards you, activates the rear electronic diff

Am I understanding this correctly you think the differential lock only works while the off-road mode is enabled. If so I would say I have locked my differential and it stays on under a certain mph so yes it is a concern if it gets pulled by kids or forgotten and you find your self on slippery roads. so I have not read in the manual or remembered if the differential stays locked at high speeds if in off road mode yes but if not no until you slow to under 5mph then reengages any way know your truck.

When Off-Road mode is enabled, you can lock on-demand at ANY speed. When Off-Road mode is OFF, the rear lock will automatically disengage above 14 MPH or so? Can't remember if it's 12, or 14... somewhere around there.

Reason being, it's dangerous to have locked at high speeds unless your INTENTION is to have a very loose rear end. Makes for a lot of fun in the dirt... wouldn't be safe on the highway by any means!

 

[ace75]

Blue, Thanks for the nice write up. Where do you usually take your truck to in So Cal. I went to the ranger station and was told that Rowher and Azusa(39) were really the only places that I could go in the LA area.