OEM (The Real Deal) Ambient Lighting discussion

[charles06]

I added the cupholder lighting on my 2013 Raptor. Here's what you need to do.
1. Find a VIN from a Platinum or Limited that HAS the ambient light option.
2. Using that VIN, order a complete, upper console trim, including the cupholders with lights. Unfortunately, you cannot order just the cupholders with LED's. So now I have an extra, wooden console with switches sitting in my garage.
3. Separate the plexi part that surrounds the cupholders as well as the LED's from the ordered console.
4. Select the correct wires within the RGB wiring to match the factory interior light color, then either hardwire them into the gearbox lighting, or to a switch. I chose the gearbox lighting route for cleanliness.
5. There is a bit of "work" to get the new pieces of the cupholder to fit with the original Raptor console, but nothing major. If you're undertaking this project yourself, I assume you'll be fine here.

My cupholder LED's are on whenever the interior (dash) lights are on. One thing to note is that they are fairly bright. They actually light up the lower part of the dash, and take some getting used to. I may have my shop dim them down the road. If you don't mind having a switch, I'd suggest going that route. Also, please don't ask for pictures. They look like stock cupholders with LED lights from any other factory set up.

Hope this helps.

Charles

 

[SilentShooter]

You can dim the lights just by simply adding a resistor to the power wire on the led

 

[charles06]

^^ Yup, that's what we're going to do if I deem it necessary. Just wanted to try it for a bit before deciding.

 

[SilentShooter]

If you really want you can hide a small rheostat and then you will be able to change the brightness to what ever you want

 

[Svtweb]

So far I have acquired the passenger front console trim and a cupholder/console top from a 2014 King Ranch. The drivers side front console trim and the rear console trim should be here tomorrow. The 2013/14 wiring harness will be here next week.

Time permitting, I am going to do a preliminary removal of the center stack and the console to see if 1)there are any wires in the dash harness for the ambient lights 2) if the connector actually exists in the HVAC unit for the lights.

The largest varible to this equation will be the deciphering of the AS BUILT coding.

 

[BAJASVT]

My 2014 with 801a package had a white LED inside the center console storage bin. I haven't confirmed, but I understand that pre-2014 trucks didn't have this and I have a friend with a 801a packaged 2013 that does not have this light, but his console does have the blank hole for where it could be installed.

I removed all my ambient lights and panels from a Harley Davidson (I think it was a 2012). I never got around to installing the rear center console panel for the rear floor ambient lighting, but the Harley truck I removed the panel from had those two rear seat floor LEDs wiring harness tied to the white LED inside the center console storage bin.

I don't know if my 2014 has any of the shared harness for the rear lights simply because of the fact that it has a factory LED inside the center console, but that's where I would start looking if you have a 2014. I can say with 100% certainty that my truck did not have any wiring harness and/or connectors for the front floor lights.

 

[Svtweb]

Took some time this weekend to do some more research. Thus far this is what I have found...

The electrical connection for the Center Console to the dash (dash side) doesn't have any of the wires for the ambient lighting. I did get the connector part number and the wiring locations so I know what repair wires I will need to install.

This will mean taking out the entire center-stack to run the wires, but that shouldn't be to big of a deal.

 

[BAJASVT]

Removing the center stack isn't difficult, but you need to remove more than you may guess. I suggest looking for Noah's (The Car Stereo Company) video for a NAV-TV installation since it will involve removing the same parts.

One of the items that needs to be partially removed is the passenger airbag. Apply some tape to the trim below your airbag so the metal bag can doesn't scratch your instrument panel... especially if you have the blue interior or SE package which have brushed aluminum trim pieces which scratch easily.

 

[Svtweb]

Removing the center stack isn't difficult, but you need to remove more than you may guess. I suggest looking for Noah's (The Car Stereo Company) video for a NAV-TV installation since it will involve removing the same parts.

One of the items that needs to be partially removed is the passenger airbag. Apply some tape to the trim below your airbag so the metal bag can doesn't scratch your instrument panel... especially if you have the blue interior or SE package which have brushed aluminum trim pieces which scratch easily.

Already watched the video, thanks for the heads-up on the tape over the trim. Will do that!

Going to hit the ford dealer today to get the wires. Also thinking of playing with the coding of everything. Worse case scenario is that I get errors. At least the errors will lead me in the direction of what each change does.

 

[Svtweb]

So I go to the local Ford dealer to get some "Repair Wires"... I am more in-tune with the VW/BMW nomenclature, so I am not sure what they call them in the Ford world. Anyhow....

Evidently either Ford doesn't offer small lengths of wire with the correct terminals on the end or the parts guy is numbnut-jackwagon. I provided him the Harness number, the connector number and even the vehicle and he couldn't find anything.

I find it hard to believe that ford doesn't offer a solution for techs/customers to add/repair individual wires to the factory harness.

Plan B is to raid the salvage yard and prune a vehicle or two of their connectors.

Any insight fellows?