New splices - solder, crimp caps with dielectric work?

[ZookieRap]

Fog lights on my new to me raptor don't work very well. If I move the butt connectors around some light up so, one side doesn't work at all. I'm going to redo the wiring to these. The pic isn't great and you can't see all of the wires going into the connectors very well but there are quite a few.

The look like they are Baja Designs but I don't see anything that actually says what they are. The wires running from the battery and switch come down the passenger side and then there are numerous butt connectors and splices which is different than I've seen in instructions for installing these so I really have no clue what the previous owner did.

All I know is that I have three fog lights on each side that need positive and negative and then a wire that is also spliced in which runs to the drivers side.

Anyway, it seems like too many wires to join together with a butt connector. So I was going to use those white crimp caps or maybe try to find some scotchloks. Crimp caps are easier to find so was thinking about twisting the wires together, soldering them, crimp cap, then pushing dielectric grease into the cap and maybe some good ol electrical tape around all of it really just to keep the grease in the cap.

Sound like a good approach or have different advice?

 

[The Car Stereo Company]

Fog lights on my new to me raptor don't work very well. If I move the butt connectors around some light up so, one side doesn't work at all. I'm going to redo the wiring to these. The pic isn't great and you can't see all of the wires going into the connectors very well but there are quite a few.

The look like they are Baja Designs but I don't see anything that actually says what they are. The wires running from the battery and switch come down the passenger side and then there are numerous butt connectors and splices which is different than I've seen in instructions for installing these so I really have no clue what the previous owner did.

All I know is that I have three fog lights on each side that need positive and negative and then a wire that is also spliced in which runs to the drivers side.

Anyway, it seems like too many wires to join together with a butt connector. So I was going to use those white crimp caps or maybe try to find some scotchloks. Crimp caps are easier to find so was thinking about twisting the wires together, soldering them, crimp cap, then pushing dielectric grease into the cap and maybe some good ol electrical tape around all of it really just to keep the grease in the cap.

Sound like a good approach or have different advice?

View attachment 163560

check the av section. theres some witing info that will help

 

[goblues38]

those connections dont look bad from the outside.....may be corroded inside. Or you may be chasing a ground issue.

 

[ZookieRap]

I believe it's corroded or coming loose or something like that. If I jiggle or pinch just the positive wire I'll get some to come on. Just worth a redo to fix it correctly. On the driver side if may well be the ground because if I use a multimeter the positive wire does have voltage. It's going to get a redo as well.

I've done a fair bit of car audio but almost all of it is interior (except amp battery wires) and have never had to go to the lengths I mentioned above as its not exposed to elements or even the vibrations these wires see for the fog lights. Still, I'll search that forum.

I was really just curious on the best method of connecting numerous wires together that will live in the elements. A crimp cap seemed like the best I could come up with but maybe there's another way I'm not aware of.

 

[smurfslayer]

You really want to check out the AV forum entry from @The Car Stereo Company on connections, there is a dump truck load of good info in there. If you’ve done car audio, you probably already get the basics, but you do need to additionally keep in mind that the outside wiring needs to be protected from the elements AND be cognizant that one of those elements may be extreme shock/vibration so make sure your connections are SOLID.

There’s a right way and a wrong way to do crimp connections, but generally: severe bends, crimps, nicks, cuts, twists or contortions of wiring creates additional resistance. resistance manifests as heat and loss of potential power.

 

[blwn]

Overkill, but I'd suggest a good waterproof connector. Something like: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D3S25CC/?tag=fordraptorforum-20

 

[4x4TruckLEDs.com]

I can't tell what those are from the rear. They are either no-name chinese lights or Rigid lights. Bajas don't have that kind of back/mounting bracket. Also the vehicle mounting brackets are not Baja or Rigid either.

Baja and Rigid D-Series have either WP or DT connectors on them. Since those don't have either, my guess is some cheap chinese lights with bare wires. Best you can do is what you did. Weatherproof/heat shrinkable butt connectors. That way they seal and are weatherproof.

 

[ZookieRap]

I can't tell what those are from the rear. They are either no-name chinese lights or Rigid lights. Bajas don't have that kind of back/mounting bracket. Also the vehicle mounting brackets are not Baja or Rigid either.

Baja and Rigid D-Series have either WP or DT connectors on them. Since those don't have either, my guess is some cheap chinese lights with bare wires. Best you can do is what you did. Weatherproof/heat shrinkable butt connectors. That way they seal and are weatherproof.

Ah good to know. If they don't hold up I'll be in the market for non-cheap Chinese lights.

 

[II Sevv]

On my rigid bar and my pods I simplified the power and ground using “solder seal” connectors then used the clamp style splice connectors to split them off to each individual light. Worked perfectly, and all those connectors are dirt cheap on Amazon.

 

[mikeyj67]

https://www.fordraptorforum.com/threads/this-installers-take-on-connections.80962/#post-1579705