New potential Raptor owner needing help.

[JustACowboy64]

I have had a TRX, a 392 Wrangler and also have a C8. The Gen 3, to me is better than the first two and gives you the same immersive feel as the C8.

 

[smurfslayer]

Welcome to FRF.

What is your use case?
IMO, both are about 2-3k overpriced for the current market.

’18 truck, look for:
1) metal oil pan or plastic. if plastic, check for leaks and if it has been replaced. If it has been replaced and it’s not leaking AND that repair was a year or more ago, then ok. If it has NOT been replaced and not leaking, also ok. HOWEVER, if you see a plastic pan and it’s leaking, walk away. This is a TIME intensive, intricate repair. If the procedure is not followed precisely, the leak will reoccur. The procedure required the pan to ‘cure’ for 24 hours before filling with oil IIRC. No dealer is going to give up a bay for 24 hours.

2) Harsh or erratic shifting. Give it a thorough test drive. Lots of acceleration and deceleration, then rapid acceleration and rapid deceleration. Basically you’re trying to get the transmission to misbehave. I think it was around mid 2018 they issued a TSB for the shifting, so if you have some shifting issues, this may need to be done.

3) pop the moonroof to VENT first, before moving the glass backwards ! All the time, every time. If you hear a ‘pop’ or ‘thud’ like sound, that’s the glass sticking to the rubber seal and if you were moving the glass back, chances are the moonroof tracks just broke. Pop to vent FIRST. if it makes that sound, ask that the seals get lubed with the CORRECT Ford Krytox grease.

4) Get a cold soak start up. Not running for at least 18 hours prior. Don’t let anyone start it for you and bring it to you. Make sure you bring a laser heat sensor to check the block temp. If it’s been started when they give it to you to go over, walk away, they’re hiding cam phaser problem. It sounds like marbles in a can when you start the truck. Sounds horrible, but is relatively benign actually, it’s just a cam phaser failing to park correctly. Do this even if the maintenance records indicate a cam phaser repair has been performed. It’s a pricey fix.

As stated, shocks probably need rebuilt or will soon. I think they’re what, around 1500 new? One nice thing about the ’17-’18 trucks, much less $$$ to refresh the shocks.
If the rear leafs are stock, they may well be pretty tired.

If you’re on stock rubber, new tires are in your future too. 40-45k is about the upper limit of time you want on KO2’s. They’re about 330 a piece to replace, but that’s not the issue. Balancing 35’s is the issue. I’ve been to NTB 2x and probably need to go back again when I rotate again. If you look on the stock wheels, there could be anywhere from 8 - 28 ounces of weights on there to balance the tires. I’ve yet to have a tire shop come close to factory. Closest has been NTB road force balance ( I used SE Military hwy FWIW ).

Get under the truck and look for leaks, check the cv boots, axle seals. <knock wood> only real issue I’ve come across was the front passenger axle seal went out in ’23. Replaced under warranty.

Good luck!

 

[topgun04]

Welcome to FRF.

What is your use case?
IMO, both are about 2-3k overpriced for the current market.

’18 truck, look for:
1) metal oil pan or plastic. if plastic, check for leaks and if it has been replaced. If it has been replaced and it’s not leaking AND that repair was a year or more ago, then ok. If it has NOT been replaced and not leaking, also ok. HOWEVER, if you see a plastic pan and it’s leaking, walk away. This is a TIME intensive, intricate repair. If the procedure is not followed precisely, the leak will reoccur. The procedure required the pan to ‘cure’ for 24 hours before filling with oil IIRC. No dealer is going to give up a bay for 24 hours.

2) Harsh or erratic shifting. Give it a thorough test drive. Lots of acceleration and deceleration, then rapid acceleration and rapid deceleration. Basically you’re trying to get the transmission to misbehave. I think it was around mid 2018 they issued a TSB for the shifting, so if you have some shifting issues, this may need to be done.

3) pop the moonroof to VENT first, before moving the glass backwards ! All the time, every time. If you hear a ‘pop’ or ‘thud’ like sound, that’s the glass sticking to the rubber seal and if you were moving the glass back, chances are the moonroof tracks just broke. Pop to vent FIRST. if it makes that sound, ask that the seals get lubed with the CORRECT Ford Krytox grease.

4) Get a cold soak start up. Not running for at least 18 hours prior. Don’t let anyone start it for you and bring it to you. Make sure you bring a laser heat sensor to check the block temp. If it’s been started when they give it to you to go over, walk away, they’re hiding cam phaser problem. It sounds like marbles in a can when you start the truck. Sounds horrible, but is relatively benign actually, it’s just a cam phaser failing to park correctly. Do this even if the maintenance records indicate a cam phaser repair has been performed. It’s a pricey fix.

As stated, shocks probably need rebuilt or will soon. I think they’re what, around 1500 new? One nice thing about the ’17-’18 trucks, much less $$$ to refresh the shocks.
If the rear leafs are stock, they may well be pretty tired.

If you’re on stock rubber, new tires are in your future too. 40-45k is about the upper limit of time you want on KO2’s. They’re about 330 a piece to replace, but that’s not the issue. Balancing 35’s is the issue. I’ve been to NTB 2x and probably need to go back again when I rotate again. If you look on the stock wheels, there could be anywhere from 8 - 28 ounces of weights on there to balance the tires. I’ve yet to have a tire shop come close to factory. Closest has been NTB road force balance ( I used SE Military hwy FWIW ).

Get under the truck and look for leaks, check the cv boots, axle seals. <knock wood> only real issue I’ve come across was the front passenger axle seal went out in ’23. Replaced under warranty.

Good luck!

Thanks for the good information. This is exactly what I needed. This should be a sticky post for new or potential owners.

 

[mprice1234]

I would go with the Gen 3 if money isn't a big concern! I think in the long run you would be much better off, and happier with the Gen 3.

 

[Lane2018]

$35k less… I say get the Gen2. Not a big enough difference to justify. Just my opinion.

 

[New recaros]

You’re getting a truck worth 35k more. No mods, I think it's a little better everywhere except the stereo.

 

[smurfslayer]

You’re getting a truck worth 35k more. No mods, I think it's a little better everywhere except the stereo.

Worth more to you, but OP hasn’t really given a clear use case yet. His use case may well be a newer vehicle, but it depends on what they want to do.

For example, if he want’s to go hard off road and will modify the daylights out of it, but $$ is a concern, Jen Too is a wiser choice.
If money is not a concern, I agree, get the newer truck.

Or, if they’re going to DD the truck and maybe do some light off roading, longer term the Jen Tres could be a better option, if he’s going to hold on to it for several years.

 

[fordrat]

Hi and welcome I would say the same thing drive both and look at everything that you want, I personally like gen 2 and it’s my understanding the 2019 was when they upgraded the shocks to fox that can be rebuilt when needed.