Needing help identifying alternate connectors

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BSouders80

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Our trucks use multiple of the WPT1078 and mating connector WPT965. Does anyone have the cheap alternative cross to a different MFR? i found to where a person could buy the connectors and contacts, but that's still about $15 each. I made me a little resistor/potentiometer box to go inline at the evap temp sensor. Mine works great. But I also paid $75 for two connectors. I want to make one for a buddy, but want to do it at less of a cost if possible. Any advice would be appreciated.
 

bwep

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Why go to all the trouble to make that all up.
Just stick a resistor in the existing connection (parallel) on the thermistor side, tape in place.
I have a 680K resistor in mine and temp on high demand runs 40* out the vents, nice and chill.
You can pick up a kit of different size resistors on Amazon for $10.00.
 
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BSouders80

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I go to all of that trouble because I can, to be honest. I originally showed a 330 k-ohm resistor into the back side of the contacts after I soldered on a couple of male 22 awg contacts. That worked fine. Low 40's when 90+ outside.

Then I saw where the guy was selling a setup where he's got the resistor and potentiometer with male/female plugs to add into the circuit via plug and play. I did the same but added a on/off toggle switch so that I can switch easily back and forth from super ac to noraml.

The guy selling the setup on ebay messaged me back and said he orders the connectors and contacts in bulk. You can get the connectors a+ contacts for $18. Ebay and Amazon.
 

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@BSouders80 @bwep

What wattage? I see 1 watt and 2 watt kits on Amazon.
Also can someone provide a picture, I tried this years ago but I never got it to work as claimed.
 
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BSouders80

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The wattage does not matter as there is very little amperage on the circuit. I'm using 1/2 Watt resistors. This can be done in less than 5 minutes. Order a pack of the 330W k-ohm resistors. Order a pack of 22 awg d-sub contacts. On amazon, the cheapest I could find was a 200 pack of male/female contacts. I cut two pieces of 20 awg wire at about 4" long. Stripped both ends and solder a male contact on each wire. Best to use a little shrink sleeve to insulate the connections. Then solder the other ends of the wires to the wires from the resistor. Form it in a U and shove both male contacts into the rear of the connector plug that runs from the main harness that plugs into the sensor. The contacts in the factory connector kind of float, so pull on the wires slightly to create and opening to shove the contact into. You can run this way as long as it's above 75F. If the outside temps get down to around 75 or lower, you will freeze up. I had vent air blowing at 34F with 72F outside. Too cold. When it gets 75F or cooler outside, I added a toggle switch to where I can easily turn it off. I added the potentiometer to add a little more resistance for when the vent temps get below 39F.
 
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BSouders80

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Get a bag of popcorn, it goes on and on and on.

Post 487 is a good write up.

On the glove box, pull in on the sides to get the tabs not to catch so that you can drop it down. If you are looking at the glove box opening centerline, it's to the left on top of the housing that holds the evaporator. No clue what the wattage is of that resistor without a color chart to figure it out. That's also about the crudest example that I can find.

image_86f20b5ec86d18724433900062ded07986e72fb6.jpg
 
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BSouders80

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If someone wanted a 3D printed box with potentiometer, toggle switch and male/female connectors, I could make one for you. It's cheap compared to new shocks or something, but connectors are $60ish, maybe $40 if I crimp the wires myself. Then whatever the cost of resistor, pot and toggle. Or you could buy from ebay guy for $50. https://www.ebay.com/itm/3755885518...d=link&campid=5338805043&toolid=20001&mkevt=1
 

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