Need Buying Advice: 20K or 50K Miles?

[Wilbur]

Hi everyone, new member here. I’m looking at finally getting into a Raptor. Specifically a 2019+ Blue Raptor with the Recaro Interior and Beadlocks.

What’s the general consensus on buying a low mileage one (15-20K miles) vs one with 50-60K miles? Thanks to this forum I know what to look for when I inspect it, but really want your advice on mileage.

I know the current market is crazy. I had the opportunity of buying a 2020 at invoice in December 2019 but foolishly I said no… I’ve been looking for the past month and the lowest I’ve been able to get dealers to go on Raptors (that fit my criteria) under 20K miles is $69k. For ones with 50k miles I’m seeing them listed between $60-65k. I have not tried negotiating on these yet. This would be my ideal budget tho (before taxes). Is it worth stretching the budget to get one with less miles and therefore still under warranty? Anything I should look more closely at on higher mileage ones?

Sidenote - I do not need to buy immediately. It would be my new Daily Driver, but I do have another car that I’m driving. I can wait, but not 6-8 months. Open to any and all advice you may have for me.

 

[smurfslayer]

If you’re considering daily driver duty, how important is the warranty? If it is, then focus on a truck that you can purchase the Ford ESP through either Flood or Ziegler, they’re typically the cheapest on the ESP. Don’t get an aftermarket warranty IF you can get the ESP from Ford.

For the price difference, I’d wait, save and focus on the lower mile trucks, honestly.
Now, if you’re going to mod the cr@p out of it, then you can consider higher mileage trucks.

On any Raptor in the price range ensure the truck has the latest revision cam phasers - I want to say that’s built on/after May(?) of ’19 --OR-- had the cam phaser repair after that date.

The moonroof, if any, is another sore spot. make sure it functions without breakage. pop to vent FIRST. If the opening makes a popping sound, it’s not been maintained. close and reopen to vent again make sure there’s no subsequent resistance in opening. Once it opens to vent without resistance, you can try to open rearward. Do it a few times to make sure the tracks are working properly and not just by coincidence. If you press the “GO” button get the stealership to lube the moon roof seals as part of the deal and pick yourself up some Ford “Krytox” grease to prevent further problems.

make sure Sync works cleanly and crisply. if it really lags, something might be up.
Transmission shifting: This is subjective, so test drive >1 to be sure you know what to expect from the 10R80. Normal mode sucks. It always will. Nevertheless, you may need to use so make sure shifting isn’t overly harsh in normal. Sport mode holds gears longer and won’t let rpms below about 1900 most of the time. It’s much better suited to the truck. If the specimen you’re driving has a harsh engagement it could be as simple as a relearn procedure but some folks complain that the poor shifting just returns and that means it may need some hard parts.


check underneath for leaks the best you can as with any used 4x4 purchase.

 

[Wilbur]

Thanks for your input. I'll add the moonroof to my check list.

I don't plan on modding it a ton, but I think I will be adding Deavers and a Goosetune soon after I pick one up.

 

[smurfslayer]

You say that now... You do know our supporting vendors are holding black friday - cyber monday sales --right now-- don’t you?

Think of how much you’ll save :-D