My Overland/Bug Out

[Mille_ed]

How hard can you run without destroying the tent or tent mounts? I’ve been considering getting a rooftop tent for mellow outings but all my buddies have had issues with holes getting ovalized and things just not holding up. I might be resigned to regular tents, but it seems like you’ve put tons of research into this.

 

[Lilla Kharn]

How hard can you run without destroying the tent or tent mounts? I’ve been considering getting a rooftop tent for mellow outings but all my buddies have had issues with holes getting ovalized and things just not holding up. I might be resigned to regular tents, but it seems like you’ve put tons of research into this.

Depends on the rack and setup. Leitner makes a great product but the bed frames of the truck aren’t too strong for long term use as I understand. I haven’t noticed a problem personally but I’m in talks with two companies to reinforce the Leitner rack with a custom chase rack.

Both the James Baroud and this Bush Company tent use t slot rails underneath for mounting. I’m not entirely sure how the cheaper rooftop tents mount so I can’t answer that.

I’ve gone 60-70 mph out in the desert with the James Baroud with no issues noted at all. I didn’t see any extra wear when we took it off, either. I’ve maxed out my suspension in the truck a couple times with the tent on back (It’s not hard with the weight. Leaf springs need to be changed.) and it’s been pretty stable.

From what I can tell, things don’t work out when you don’t get the right tool for the job. Nothing that’s the right tool is cheap for these trucks. What options have you been looking at?

 

[Oldfart]

Alright! Big update on two weeks of installs. I purchased the ORA 550 package (Hands down excellent customer service from them), Swarfworks Elite Light Mount, Swarfworks Winch Mount, 4x LP9's, 2x XL80's, 2x XL lasers (Haven't come in yet), triple foglight bezel kit with SAE Squadrons and S1, and SwitchPros RCR 12. Not everything is wired correctly or installed yet. For instance, I won't be able to do my chase or side lights until I get rid of my Decked because it's covering the hole I want to go through. I also don't have parking lights tapped yet for the backlights on the LP9's or the RCR12.

ORA 550: I installed the entire pack as one unit. Probably an idiotic way to do this over a couple days (Maybe 3 total?) because I have excess parts. I watched so many YouTube videos and read so many directions. None of the excess parts seem critical and all places where a bolt should be have a bolt. Sometimes I even put a bolt where a nut should be because I lost the nut!

Spark plugs. They are spark plugs. Helped to have adjustable end on the socket. Use a torque wrench. Remember kids, cross threading is nature's Loctite. Them threads ain't ever coming out. Don't worry if the engine doesn't run.

Intake: Cobb. Straightforward. In the grand scheme of things a very easy install. The MAP (I think it's the MAP) plug unplugs from the sensor so it's easier to handle/take out.

Cobb FMIC: This is the one that I have two extra O rings and two metal tabs. The amount of space the stock intercooler and shutter system took up was incredible. It's solid and in there. I had flashbacks to attempting to install silicone hoses on my WRX that were cut wrong but everything fit well with no issues.

AMS Boost Tube: What a pain in the butt getting the passenger side coupler on the turbo. I reused all hoses that were on the truck already. AMS packaged a tube that I assume is supposed to be used if they wouldn't fit.

ORA tune: Customer service is outstanding. I sent Chris from @OffroadAlliance.com the information needed and he rushed a tune out to me. I come from the world of Subaru where if you sneeze you need to tune the car because it can't figure out the new air pressures. Turned out I didn't need to worry at all but Chris still worked with me (This guy was texting me at 8 at night and 6 in the morning on a weekend) and got it to me. I've never received such excellent customer service.
The tune is awesome. All of the modifications have made my turbos a little louder and I can definitely feel the increase in power. Torque is awesome and I'm not squealing tires any longer. With all the weight in the back of the truck, it was definitely worth the upgrade. Oh, the transmission? Smooooooooooooth. I don't notice shifts anymore if I'm not paying attention to them. My gas mileage has decreased but I can't tell if my driving has changed because I love slamming the gas.

Swarfworks Winch Zeon 12-S Platinum. Install was straightforward. I highly recommend not putting brackets inside of the Baja Designs boxes. That way, you can find the brackets when you need them instead of looking like an idiot and falsely claiming you never got them. The packaging fell apart during shipping and I am officially missing the turnbuckles which should be arriving today. I am also getting the harness for the lights to attach to the winch. Installing the winch was easier with two people but can be done with one. I also put the dome light inside of the winch housing. Don't have anywhere that seems great to attach the line to or run it through. But it does light up the winch line and makes it a lot easier to see. I have the Factor 55 Ultrahook with their Hawse fairlead on it. When cutting the grill, cut the grill without the fairlead on it. The fairlead will push the grill over the spacers and make a clean install. I will be ordering a new grill cover at some point to make it look cleaner.

Swarfworks Elite Light Mount. Everything this guy makes is just extremely well engineered and impressive. The license plate relocation bracket does NOT fit with this mount installed. I reused the front hardware due to not having the hardware kits and stability does not appear to be affected. Will be keeping a close eye on this. Mounts the lights wonderfully, though the camera relocation bracket was a REALLY tight fit. As in, I had to hit it to get it into place. Otherwise I have no complaints whatsoever. Wish I had gotten the template for the cutting but it wasn't so hard to do with a Dremel.

SDHQ A Pillar: Haven't put lights on it due to not having them. But they seem really strong. Mine do contact the fenders with the silicone on the outside of the bracket. Did not have to remove the passenger antenna to get it in there but it took some finagling.

Morimoto headlights: Great light output with a very sharp cutoff. Used the DOT regulation to align them and I couldn't see more than 50 feet. Had to adjust. When going off road on washboards, the high beams flicker. I'm not sure if there is a mechanical reason that's causing this but it is noticeable when running only headlights and fogs. Fuse 14 is what I used for the DRL's. I also tapped into the same line for the SwitchPros ignition.

Triple bezel kit: 2x Squadron SAE clear and 2x Squadron SAE amber. Doesn't really do much more than the Morimoto headlights do. I can tell a difference with amber but I probably don't have them aligned correctly either. Still not awe inspiring bright. I think the light stretches out farther than the S1 but the S1 ambers on the outside really provide a lot of light. A lot more than I expected. These overshadow the headlights.

LP9's and XL80: Headlights, fog lights, don't need them. When Chris told me to wear sunglasses when I turned them on I thought it was hyperbole. It wasn't. Middle of the day and I had to wear sunglasses to look at them. At night, I can turn off my fogs and headlights and not notice a difference. They are BRIGHT and they light up pretty far. Do I need the XL lasers? No. Probably not. But they are on order and coming anyway. I cannot overstate how bright these are. I have the XL 80's angled outwards to a corner light and the LP9's point straight with the bends in the bar. I have an INCREDIBLE amount of light in front of the truck now.

SwitchPros RCR Force 12: What a useful little thing with an insane amount of wires coming out of it. I am definitely not a wiring expert and Noah from @The Car Stereo Company helped me through a lot of it. I used the Swarfworks mount. Turns out, you can't take the fuse box cover off with the Switchpros module in there. So finish everything in the fuse box first. @Oldfart helped out with location to run a wire through the firewall. TAKE APART THE PLUG. Use a paperclip. I didn't have a paperclip handy to me to I tried everything else under the sun and it didn't work. Five hours I spent trying to get this thing through the firewall. Metal coat hanger, F4 tape. I'm sure other tape works too but F4 tape is my favorite tape due to no stickiness. I used silicone grease and petroleum jelly as lube. The control module wire is running outside the console and I need to pull it back out and reroute it. I have the module mounted to Built Right Industries dash mount on a 67 Designs Series 55 rail with a carbon fiber arm. I don't have any movement in it at all and I can push the buttons without bracing the control module. It's set to a red backlight until I can get the backlight wire in.
I had a few options on the wiring. I decided to run each light separately and control the outputs from the module itself. Switch one turns on outputs 5 and 6. I wanted to be able to have wig-wag and strobe options just in case but you can't run wig-wag without one touch so it's essentially useless to me unless I want to give up a switch for it. Eventually, I will be redoing all the wiring and I will make it look nice and pretty.

I ordered the kit from Specialty Performance Parts to tap into the BCM to run the backlight on the LP9's and the backlight on the SwitchPros. I didn't want to tap into the main harness.

All-in-all, I'm happy with everything and everyone. Chris from Offroad Alliance is now my go to guy for anything and Noah is just super knowledgeable. All of the parts are high quality and made really well. Everything seems to be thought out really nicely. There is still a lot more to come.

Oh! Small update on the tent. I sleep in it every night and went through this last rainstorm in it. No noticeable wind and the main door on the rear can remain almost completely open during heavy downpours. The sides can be opened a lot with the only rain towards the front where the rainfly goes in to the body of the tent. It's noticeably warmer inside the tent than my previous one even with windows open more.

I was wondering what the hell you needed so many switches for, now I know! Glad you got it all worked out. It's tough the first time in there.

 

[sixshooter_45]

Depends on the rack and setup. Leitner makes a great product but the bed frames of the truck aren’t too strong for long term use as I understand. I haven’t noticed a problem personally but I’m in talks with two companies to reinforce the Leitner rack with a custom chase rack.

Both the James Baroud and this Bush Company tent use t slot rails underneath for mounting. I’m not entirely sure how the cheaper rooftop tents mount so I can’t answer that.

I’ve gone 60-70 mph out in the desert with the James Baroud with no issues noted at all. I didn’t see any extra wear when we took it off, either. I’ve maxed out my suspension in the truck a couple times with the tent on back (It’s not hard with the weight. Leaf springs need to be changed.) and it’s been pretty stable.

From what I can tell, things don’t work out when you don’t get the right tool for the job. Nothing that’s the right tool is cheap for these trucks. What options have you been looking at?

Maybe I missed it but are you running any bed sides support in the rear which keeps the sidewalls from becoming loose.

Many companies make them and some even work with the deck system. I would think that if that part of the bed side are reinforced then it wouldn't be an issue.

 

[Lilla Kharn]

Maybe I missed it but are you running any bed sides support in the rear which keeps the sidewalls from becoming loose.

Many companies make them and some even work with the deck system. I would think that if that part of the bed side are reinforced then it wouldn't be an issue.

No and I probably won’t. I will have them built with the chase rack, though.

I need to put spare tires in the bed and change up the mounting options for a jack, fridge, battery, etc so the decked drawers just won’t work for the long term use.

 

[Raptor_Pilot]

Awesome build! I can't find the kit wire tap kit from Specialty Performance... Do you have a link by chance?

 

[Lilla Kharn]

Awesome build! I can't find the kit wire tap kit from Specialty Performance... Do you have a link by chance?

https://specialtyperformanceparts.com/products/rigid-radiance-backlight-wire

This is the kit that I’m going to use. It doesn’t wire tap; it adds a connection to the BCM. I saw a post from @FordTechOne regarding DTC’s from increased power draw from the BCM and inquired from Specialty Performance Parts and they hadn’t reported any issues. I’m going to be drawing approximately one amp of power so if I run into issues then I will explore other options. I am trying very hard not to tap into the wiring harness of the truck itself.

 

[amREADY]

https://specialtyperformanceparts.com/products/rigid-radiance-backlight-wire

This is the kit that I’m going to use.

First off, wow. Incredible build so far and the yet to come. It makes the mods I've done to mine for 'overlanding' look like child's play in comparison. (and yes, I know it isn't a competition and no, I'm not keen on the O word, but whatever).

I have a few critical thoughts, but I'm not being critical. I can tell you are thoughtful, so the intent of my input isn't to criticize, but provoke thought. Also to learn myself, as I turn my mind to the next stage of my build.

1. Alaska winter and death valley in the summer? Did you get that backwards? Or do you just not like yourself

2. Are you planning to continue to live out of the setup going forward? None of my business, but the reason I ask is you might need to bias towards comfort or bias towards performance. Right now, it looks like you are trying to do both and succeeding so far... but weight. I thought I was running on the heavier side, but I'm curious what you estimate you're running.

3. Suspension. Since I'm at about 550 lbs of tent, tonneau, rack, recovery, water, cooler and gear on extended trips and maybe 450 on trips of a week or less, I need to do my suspension. I have a '19 so it drives nice still, but too much squat and too much loss of rear departure angle. I haven't noticed it in the front, but will probably tackle them at the same time. I'm being really picky about adding any weight at this time, but I really need to add sliders and skid plates, but will do suspension first.

4. Re the backlight tap as quoted. I didn't know about the SPV backlight tap. Good info. From my lay understanding, you should be fine to tap into the downstream power from the BCM, it's the upstream sensing that can make it sense problems with the charging profile, etc. In order to trigger parking mode on my dashcam and the smart charging trigger on the Redarc BCDC charger for my Aux battery, I did an add a fuse in the passenger footwell. It worked, but I was getting some electrical weirdness re door lock handle sensor. Looking back on it, it happened during the first strict covid lockdown and it might have been a coincidence with the battery losing power from sitting. Anyway, I didn't like it, so ended up using one of my upfitters as a clean source of switched power, but I'd like to get my upfitter back.

5. I can see why you are getting rid of the decked system. A huge weight penalty for the convenience and for how you are using your storage, I can see it be limiting. I haven't had problems with my bed bracing and 200 lbs of tent/rack, but will be adding bed braces just to make sure. So far it has been rock solid, just a FYI. I wouldn't say I baby it offroad, but I don't race it like it's empty either.

Here's a vid I did of mine so far. I could probably learn a lot more from you rather than vice versa, but if there is a tidbit that helps solve a problem or gives you an idea, then great.

I look forward to you posting more info. Congrats and really impressive so far.[/QUOTE]

 

[Lilla Kharn]

1. Alaska winter and death valley in the summer? Did you get that backwards? Or do you just not like yourself

I have the philosophy of the the obstacle is the way. Whatever stands in the way, becomes the way. I want to challenge myself. Ice climbing in alaska and seeing things I will not be able to see otherwise.

2. Are you planning to continue to live out of the setup going forward? None of my business, but the reason I ask is you might need to bias towards comfort or bias towards performance. Right now, it looks like you are trying to do both and succeeding so far... but weight. I thought I was running on the heavier side, but I'm curious what you estimate you're running.

Yes. I am living in this going forward. For a lot of personal reasons. I am done with power upgrades. I don’t want to stress my engine or other parts more as reliability is a huge anxiety for me for where I’m going. But I do like to be able to pull out fast especially with the weight.

3. Suspension. Since I'm at about 550 lbs of tent, tonneau, rack, recovery, water, cooler and gear on extended trips and maybe 450 on trips of a week or less, I need to do my suspension. I have a '19 so it drives nice still, but too much squat and too much loss of rear departure angle. I haven't noticed it in the front, but will probably tackle them at the same time. I'm being really picky about adding any weight at this time, but I really need to add sliders and skid plates, but will do suspension first.

I’m probably 1000 pounds right now. Deaver added two leaf springs for me in October but I have my Fox 3.0 coilovers on order along with SVC’s performance pack 2.

4. Re the backlight tap as quoted. I didn't know about the SPV backlight tap. Good info. From my lay understanding, you should be fine to tap into the downstream power from the BCM, it's the upstream sensing that can make it sense problems with the charging profile, etc. In order to trigger parking mode on my dashcam and the smart charging trigger on the Redarc BCDC charger for my Aux battery, I did an add a fuse in the passenger footwell. It worked, but I was getting some electrical weirdness re door lock handle sensor. Looking back on it, it happened during the first strict covid lockdown and it might have been a coincidence with the battery losing power from sitting. Anyway, I didn't like it, so ended up using one of my upfitters as a clean source of switched power, but I'd like to get my upfitter back.

Yeah I need to add a camera. I’m glad you’ve had experience with this. I might use an up fitter for that since I have 3 extra upfitters.

I am going to be building a system for my second battery utilizing Redarc. I just haven’t done enough research yet and I was trying to contact a company that could help me but they disappeared off the map when I told them to call me. It must fit in with the design philosophy, though.

5. I can see why you are getting rid of the decked system. A huge weight penalty for the convenience and for how you are using your storage, I can see it be limiting. I haven't had problems with my bed bracing and 200 lbs of tent/rack, but will be adding bed braces just to make sure. So far it has been rock solid, just a FYI. I wouldn't say I baby it offroad, but I don't race it like it's empty either.

I still go fast sometimes off road. But not like I used to. My design philosophy for the truck is that it must be functional, convenient, and fast. Both when I drive but also when I’m setting up, taking down camp, recovering, rescuing. If I get there. I want to do search and rescue one day, too.

 

[amREADY]

1. Alaska winter and death valley in the summer? Did you get that backwards? Or do you just not like yourself

I have the philosophy of the the obstacle is the way. Whatever stands in the way, becomes the way. I want to challenge myself. Ice climbing in alaska and seeing things I will not be able to see otherwise.

2. Are you planning to continue to live out of the setup going forward? None of my business, but the reason I ask is you might need to bias towards comfort or bias towards performance. Right now, it looks like you are trying to do both and succeeding so far... but weight. I thought I was running on the heavier side, but I'm curious what you estimate you're running.

Yes. I am living in this going forward. For a lot of personal reasons. I am done with power upgrades. I don’t want to stress my engine or other parts more as reliability is a huge anxiety for me for where I’m going. But I do like to be able to pull out fast especially with the weight.

3. Suspension. Since I'm at about 550 lbs of tent, tonneau, rack, recovery, water, cooler and gear on extended trips and maybe 450 on trips of a week or less, I need to do my suspension. I have a '19 so it drives nice still, but too much squat and too much loss of rear departure angle. I haven't noticed it in the front, but will probably tackle them at the same time. I'm being really picky about adding any weight at this time, but I really need to add sliders and skid plates, but will do suspension first.

I’m probably 1000 pounds right now. Deaver added two leaf springs for me in October but I have my Fox 3.0 coilovers on order along with SVC’s performance pack 2.

4. Re the backlight tap as quoted. I didn't know about the SPV backlight tap. Good info. From my lay understanding, you should be fine to tap into the downstream power from the BCM, it's the upstream sensing that can make it sense problems with the charging profile, etc. In order to trigger parking mode on my dashcam and the smart charging trigger on the Redarc BCDC charger for my Aux battery, I did an add a fuse in the passenger footwell. It worked, but I was getting some electrical weirdness re door lock handle sensor. Looking back on it, it happened during the first strict covid lockdown and it might have been a coincidence with the battery losing power from sitting. Anyway, I didn't like it, so ended up using one of my upfitters as a clean source of switched power, but I'd like to get my upfitter back.

Yeah I need to add a camera. I’m glad you’ve had experience with this. I might use an up fitter for that since I have 3 extra upfitters.

I am going to be building a system for my second battery utilizing Redarc. I just haven’t done enough research yet and I was trying to contact a company that could help me but they disappeared off the map when I told them to call me. It must fit in with the design philosophy, though.

5. I can see why you are getting rid of the decked system. A huge weight penalty for the convenience and for how you are using your storage, I can see it be limiting. I haven't had problems with my bed bracing and 200 lbs of tent/rack, but will be adding bed braces just to make sure. So far it has been rock solid, just a FYI. I wouldn't say I baby it offroad, but I don't race it like it's empty either.

I still go fast sometimes off road. But not like I used to. My design philosophy for the truck is that it must be functional, convenient, and fast. Both when I drive but also when I’m setting up, taking down camp, recovering, rescuing. If I get there. I want to do search and rescue one day, too.

Totally legit and great answers.

Obstacle is the way - perfect.

If you have questions about the Aux battery and BCDC, I went HAM on trying to increase my understanding of it all when I did mine. Farthest from an expert as you can be, but did turn my mind to a number of the considerations. Mine's been working flawlessly. 1225 BCDC, bluetop 55Ah deep cycle in a trolling battery box, some accessories run off it, plus snivel gear in camp - lights, charging accessories etc. I didn't go lithium bcs I need it to accept a charge below freezing, but would like to run a 100 Ah lithium for more capacity and some weight savings, or maybe a bit smaller lithium.

I also wired in an extension off it for running my compressor, or to easily connect 120w folding solar - just avoids me having to open my hood and mess with my battery.

I also wired in a direct to main battery outlet in my glove box so I could run a 20w solar either inside the window or outside (for less power loss) as s trickle charger for the main battery in camp. This way, the main battery is running some lights, car alarm and other little things... stays up and reliable.