MTI Sub and JL Amp add to B&O

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biturbomg

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Thanks for sending this, although apparently it was a waste of money haha
Ha ha.

I can send you some pics and detailed info on install if you need. The bass is easy 50% more than stock or more depending where you set it.

You do have to remove oem sub and half of the rear liner. If you want something more simple with just as good of sound I would consider the JL Micro sub+ with built in amp. Wild go under the seat but simple unplug to remove and you could keep ur oem sub.
 

smurfslayer

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The technical data was appreciated but your attitude and arrogance wasn’t needed.

You’ll find legion of posts on here about Ford’s audio systems - Sony, B&O, and latest Jen Tres B&O.

The thing is, @goblues38 is right and he has well documented his install to the benefit others here. If you just want more volume for some gangsta hip hop, go forth and embrace the watts RMS.

But you cannot perfectly clean up the Ford mixing enough to get good quality sound. Honestly, put on some ear buds and phone and listen to a few favorites with good, complex and musical tracks. Then go play the same music through the same phone by wire on your truck’s audio.

If the difference isn’t that much to you, again, go forth and be happy.
Even if you played a beat up, public school trumpet or trombone in Elementary school, you can tell the factory Ford mixing is not just bad, it’s terrible.

The only way to clean up that poor quality sound is external amp and mixing.
There was a guy on here before... @dhmcfaddin? I don’t think he’s here any more but was a good resource as well. He more than once scolded me about only modding a piece at a time and I get it. I was fortunate to have ’17 with the Sony, which was a little easier to do in stages, but I still ended up paying about 2600 on the final parts, plus my speaker level 8” sub and modded stock enclosure. So I only spent about 400 on stuff I didn’t end up using, but it’s still 400 bucks I could have spent elsewhere.

Good luck.
 
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biturbomg

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Thx and agree it’s not a very good system and if one is after the best sound quality and a balanced system an overall redo of the entire system is a must. For me I just wanted a bit more bass to balance out the mids and highs.

For what it is it works for now but I know how one can keep adding more and more and end up spending more money vs doing it all at once.

Again thanks for the polite and detailed response.
 

goblues38

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The technical data was appreciated but your attitude and arrogance wasn’t needed.
because the search function is your friend. The B&O system is 4+ years old now, and there are at least 20 threads where all of this has been explained. Make a little effort to educate yourself, then as questions. Apologies if I am old and salty.
 
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biturbomg

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Agree search function is great but didn’t answer my specific questions. You came into my post and didn’t answer the specific questions I was asking either. So again thanks for the info but that was not my question I was asking the forum help with.
 

smurfslayer

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@biturbomg
It may come across as off putting, snobbish, or non-responsive or maybe like we’re talking past each other. We’re not.

We’re trying to save you $$$ in the long run, because we’ve all been there and travelled this road before you.

If you’re modifying the stereo at all, you are at least passively enthusiastic about audio. If you’ve ever done any sort of stint in music as a hobby, or even professionally, that puts you in a special category of audio enthusiast. One who will appreciate precise and accurate sound reproduction- sometimes within budget constraints, but you get the point.

The Sony & B&O is imprecise, poorly mixed, underpowered, and uses quite inexpensive components. If you could somehow manipulate the mixing - even to flat signal, it would sound far better but would likely compromise the cheap components. There’s really no sense adding power to it while poorly mixed and the B&O isn’t friendly to simple, line level sub add, where the Sony system did allow this. Even so, the stock mixing rolls off bass past half volume, and becomes really noticeable above 2/3 volume. I ran a line level 8” 300w sub for a year or so while I set aside money for the amp upgrade ( I have sony system ). I could tell bass was falling off at 22, which was ok up to about 45 mph windows down, any faster and I couldn’t hear the music clearly and any louder and it just exposed how bad the mixing was.

So, the moral here is, if you’re going to mod the B&O, there’s an entry fee minimum that is a little higher than on the previous model Raptors. If you do it right the first time, you don’t spend as much in the long run.
 

socal raptor

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Thanks for sending this, although apparently it was a was
Ha ha.

I can send you some pics and detailed info on install if you need. The bass is easy 50% more than stock or more depending where you set it.

You do have to remove oem sub and half of the rear liner. If you want something more simple with just as good of sound I would consider the JL Micro sub+ with built in amp. Wild go under the seat but simple unplug to remove and you could keep ur oem sub.
some pics and install info would be great. I think all I’m after is more bass?

With out redoing the entire system I am curious what the next step up from your solution is. It is disappointing that I can put the system on max 30 and still want more volume. I guess I have some research to do
 

Hush Car Audio

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For a bass only addon the Zen unit isn't necessary as he can tap the sub lines for signal and use them just fine. If he wants a full system then yes I'll say that using any bypass system is very necessary for clean audio.
 
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