More Travel or More Shocks

[TDBrown]

Which is better for high-speed offroading like Baja, more wheel travel or more shocks? I'm just getting around to modding my Gen 1 suspension and don't know much about it. I see options for lower control arms that allow for a second (bypass) shock in the front. And I see options for adding bump stops to the front. Then I see options for extending out the control arms to gain more wheel travel (mid- and long-travel options). Seems like the longer travel is a bunch more expensive. It seems like the benefit of longer travel would be to spread the impact forces over a longer duration. But does spreading the impact forces across more shocks have a similar effect?

Likewise, I don't understand why people chase wheel travel in the back when the front is limited. To my uneducated mind, it seems like the back is not carrying as much weight and would never need more travel than what the front provides. Isn't the limiting factor in high-speed offroad whatever end (front or back) has the smallest wheel travel? If the front end is getting 15-16" of wheel travel with a mid-travel kit, why put a cage in the back to chase 18"+? What is it that makes the back need more travel than the front?

Thanks all.

 

[W0n70n]

Generally speaking your mid/long travel front systems will also add a second bypass to help with the load up front hence the expense difference. By the time you are looking at the fab work for just adding a second bypass up front you're going to be inclined to just go full mid-travel anyway so be wary of fabrication and shock cost vs a full front system replacement.

Speaking on the suspension questions from the second half, yes the lowest amount of travel will be your limiting factor on overall speed your vehicle can keep it's composure but your rear wheels will generally be your primary driving contact points, the ones pushing your rig forward so keeping them attached to the ground is extremely important. As far as which to do first, as you've pointed out, the general convention is that if you have to choose to do one, do the front and do the rear later.

A full spec race truck will have 24-28" of travel in the front and push upwards of 36" in the rear to keep the driving wheels on the ground. Now they also distribute weight differently than our vehicles but it's still worth noting.

 

[Pacific Wheel]

Everything @W0n70n is pretty spot on.

There are some companies out there that offer stock width LCA's that accommodate a bypass. Mid/long travel is nice but there is a lot of cost involved. It also changes the way the truck drives on the street which some don't like and the added turning radius can be a pain in tight spots. You also get into adding fiberglass fenders etc...

You definitely want more travel in the rear to keep the drive tires down as mentioned.

If it were me and I was going for a streetable truck that handled better off road (that isn't big big $$$) I'd go with the following.

Stock width LCA with bypass mount and 3.0 bypass. I think KHC has one and RPG does as well.
Bypass Rack with 3.5" shocks, deavers, air bumps and drop shackles etc... Plenty of companies making these. SVC, RPG... But for sake of making it simple, RPG RST16 full kit.

Rogue is out of business but this video shows how well a stock width truck can do with an added bypass and some extra rear travel.

 

[TDBrown]

Generally speaking your mid/long travel front systems will also add a second bypass to help with the load up front hence the expense difference. By the time you are looking at the fab work for just adding a second bypass up front you're going to be inclined to just go full mid-travel anyway so be wary of fabrication and shock cost vs a full front system replacement.

Speaking on the suspension questions from the second half, yes the lowest amount of travel will be your limiting factor on overall speed your vehicle can keep it's composure but your rear wheels will generally be your primary driving contact points, the ones pushing your rig forward so keeping them attached to the ground is extremely important. As far as which to do first, as you've pointed out, the general convention is that if you have to choose to do one, do the front and do the rear later.

A full spec race truck will have 24-28" of travel in the front and push upwards of 36" in the rear to keep the driving wheels on the ground. Now they also distribute weight differently than our vehicles but it's still worth noting.

That makes SO much sense! Thank you @W0n70n. I didn't think I was going to get a response to this thread. Thank you for taking the time to explain. Keeping the drive wheels on the ground was something that would have never crossed my mind.

 

[TDBrown]

There are some companies out there that offer stock width LCA's that accommodate a bypass. Mid/long travel is nice but there is a lot of cost involved. It also changes the way the truck drives on the street which some don't like and the added turning radius can be a pain in tight spots. You also get into adding fiberglass fenders etc...

If it were me and I was going for a streetable truck that handled better off road (that isn't big big $$$) I'd go with the following.

Stock width LCA with bypass mount and 3.0 bypass. I think KHC has one and RPG does as well.
Bypass Rack with 3.5" shocks, deavers, air bumps and drop shackles etc... Plenty of companies making these. SVC, RPG... But for sake of making it simple, RPG RST16 full kit.

Thank you @Pacific Wheel ...Justin is it? I have seen your responses on other suspension threads and know you are knowledgeable. You are dead on that since it is a daily driver (and park-er), I don't want to change turning radius. So it looks like I'm going stock width LCA.

Having said that, have you (or anyone) had a chance to compare adding front bumps to adding a front bypass? It looks like KHC offers a bracket that would let me get Gen 2 wheel travel. So I'm considering adding Gen 2 Fox Factory Race live valve shocks and also adding KHC front bumps. The other way to go is clearly to add the KHC LCA and add a second (bypass) shock. I'm just not sure where the value point is. Is it worth it to spend the money on a second full shock? Or does a front Fox or King bump shock alone get me most of the benefit for a lot less money?

I guess the logical next question is whether it's worth it on a stock width truck to add both a bypass shock and a front bump shock.

Thank you again. Very helpful.

 

[Pacific Wheel]

@TDBrown I haven't messed with a bypass or a front bump. The bypass will help the coilover not work so hard. The bypass will give better tuning as well. That's why that Rogue truck did so well IMO. The air bump will help with the bigger hits/landings. So depends on your needs. You might be fine with just an upgraded 3.0 coilover. If you're worried about hard hits/landings you could talk to forged offroad. I "think" they make a kit to utilize a front bump on the stock LCA. Most of the companies whether KHC, SVT, RPG or Forged Offroad have been doing this since the beginning. Can't go wrong with any of them. And they can all point you in the right direction for your specific needs.