Onboard Air and Train Horns
Parts: Hornblaster's 540 Train Horn Kit, Air Zenith Digital Pressure Gauge, Roush Vent Gauge Mount, Various Air Fittings and Mounting Pieces
When it comes to train horns and onboard air, bigger is always better. Only downside to this kit is the size of the 5 gallon tank but the flip side of that is having a 5 gallon tank. Installation wasn't too bad. Routing the air line down the frame was the hardest part. I went with the Air Zentih pressure gauge so I didn't have to run an airline through the firewall and the digital gauge looks better and tells me the voltage. I had a decent bracket made up for the train horns in the front but I had to modify them once I installed my bumper as the winch took up a lot of room I was using. Right now the compressor and tank are mounted in the bed because it is probably the safest place and I need to be able to keep my spare under the truck when I'm not on runs. Eventually I will be getting an XRD bed cage and I will mount it to that in a cleaner fashion. I installed a small momentary push button switch on the dash to the left of the NAV. Did I forget to mention, these ******* are LOUD!
VHF Radio
Parts: TYT TH9000 VHF Radio and Antenna
I mounted in the center console because I wanted to keep the interior of the truck as clean as possible. I ran some cat 5 down to the kick panel on the driver's side so I can plug the microphone in when I want to use it. The audio is routed up to the center speaker in the dash via a spliced 3.5mm headphone jack. I originally had a DPDT On/On switch that had the factory audio and the VHF audio routed up to the center speaker that I could switch. Unfortunately I could not get it to work and the dealer stole my switch when sabotaging my truck and I just haven't pursued it any further. The center speaker sucks anyway. I started out with a magnetic mount but after Snoball (antenna was knocked off countless times) I decided to switch to a permanent NMO mount and a shorter antenna. I put an NMO cover on it when I'm not using the radio and most people don't even notice it.
ADD Race Series R Front Bumper
Parts: Bumper, 10 Rigid D2s, 2 Rigid SRM, and a Recon 10500 Winch
I fell in love with this bumper the first time I saw it. I went with 10 Rigid D2s in driving beam pattern because I like the look of the multiple lights and I faced the outboard lights further out so it encompasses a large viewing area. For me, driving beam was ideal because I didn't need the distance due to the hood mounted cannons and the light tower cannons that are in the near future. I didn't want the SRM lights but ADD sent it with the cutouts so I kind of had no option. Personally, they're worthless. I might use them for ambient light if I was outside the truck and that's about it. Once again, Snoball dictated a mod purchase. The winch would have been handy at Snoball and after sinking the truck in a small mud hole I figured it was a wise investment. I went with the Recon based on other member's experiences and so far it has held up well. It's a great winch for a great price. I did shorten up the synthetic line and put on a factor 55 prolink.
Front Whelen Vertex
Parts: 2 Whelen Vertex Amber and Black Flanges
This was a just because mod. I've used my vertex in a flashing pattern many times when helping someone out who broke down. Same as the install before but a little easier for routing wires and drilling. I ran some 16 gauge 3 wire through the firewall and back to the switch I installed for the rear facing so I can control all of them at the same time. The fronts are alternated from the back (when the front right flashes the back left is flashing).
Extra Switches
Parts:
sPOD Universal System with The Source and
Custom Switches
I saw someone post a picture of this and then couldn't find it so I did a lot of research for this one. This system is popular among the Jeep community. For me, it was not worth my time to design my own system and I knew there was no way I could make one look this good and work as flawless. Mounting above the sunglass holder wasn't hard. They provide a template that I centered, marked, scored with a utility knife, and then cut the plastic out behind with an oscillating tool. Switches snap in and then the wire is routed down the A pillar through the firewall on the passenger side. There is more room for mounting The Source on that side plus it's next to the factory pass through wires. I ordered the custom switches to give it that specialized look. They also look a lot nicer than the standard switch covers that are provided and are well worth the extra money. Now I can open up The Source and plug in, remove, or change whatever I want by simply unscrewing the terminal.