LCA Ball Joint

[Andres Aguilar]

hello, should i use the oem ball joint for my LCA or just use moog? Is there any performance difference between them?

 

[BenBB]

I tried the Moog and didn't have very good luck, YMMV but mine started developing play under 10k miles, grease zerk was nice but greasing only shut them up for about a week. I went back with Motorcraft and they have been perfect 20k miles later...

 

[CoronaRaptor]

I've read this same scenario from members on here a lot over the years ^^^^^ stick with oem if you plan on keeping it.

 

[Andres Aguilar]

I went with oem ball joint but moog bushings since ford doesn't sold the bushings apart and I didn't want to spend the money for 2 new LCA, waiting on install next week with new UCA (moog) and oem tie rods.

 

[BenBB]

Muy bien! Should make a big difference if they are worn, I did the same thing on mine although I couldn't find the LCA bushings and mine looked ok; lower balljoints, Motorcraft UCA's, Moog inner & Delco outer tie rod ends-again these had grease zerks but when I replace them I'll go with Motorcraft. I didn't do sway bar links but wound up just removing the whole swaybar, you might check them when you have it all apart. Are you rebuilding or replacing shocks? Good time to add the aligment cam bolts if you haven't already.

 

[Andres Aguilar]

I had the sway bar links and rack & pinion replaced like half a year ago (don't remember the brand) and OEM sway bar bushings like a month ago. I bought new front shocks and geisers about a month ago, the rear shocks were rebuilt by shocks by hammer, but I still have bounciness and bump steer so that is the reason why I'm replacing all of my front suspension. Depending on how it feels maybe I will buy Deaver's or wait like a year. I also bought the HD alignment kit, it will be in on Tuesday. My truck has 119k miles all fluid changes and everything up to date.

 

[CoronaRaptor]

Do you have a picture of your tire/wheel set up on the truck and what air pressure? Just curious.

 

[BenBB]

Might be a stupid question but, over what kind of terrain? And possibly stupider still, have you tried using a LOT of throttle??

I used to race a Banshee so first heard of bump steer when compared to Honda 250R frontend geometry. I’m no engineering expert but understand it’s unwanted change of alignment/tire direction through the suspension cycle. Yamaha’s solution was pretty much “more power” heh. But even with a 6000lb truck, stomping on the skinny pedal works wonders (to either powerslide the smooth stuff or absolutely eat up huge potholes or braking bumps once you straighten up the steering in a tight turn).

Bounciness when? My first thought is rebound, or lack thereof, but new shocks and springs should eliminate or minimize that. Have you tried mid perch with the Geisers? Also curious about tire/wheel setup…

 

[Andres Aguilar]

Do you have a picture of your tire/wheel set up on the truck and what air pressure? Just curious.

stock tires KO2 and stock wheels for the 2010, pressure is 35psi

 

[Andres Aguilar]

Might be a stupid question but, over what kind of terrain? And possibly stupider still, have you tried using a LOT of throttle??

I used to race a Banshee so first heard of bump steer when compared to Honda 250R frontend geometry. I’m no engineering expert but understand it’s unwanted change of alignment/tire direction through the suspension cycle. Yamaha’s solution was pretty much “more power” heh. But even with a 6000lb truck, stomping on the skinny pedal works wonders (to either powerslide the smooth stuff or absolutely eat up huge potholes or braking bumps once you straighten up the steering in a tight turn).

Bounciness when? My first thought is rebound, or lack thereof, but new shocks and springs should eliminate or minimize that. Have you tried mid perch with the Geisers? Also curious about tire/wheel setup…

any terrain, it’s hard to explain what is going on. the steering is really loose even when having a perfect alignment, every suspension components besides the shocks are over 100K miles (i got the truck on 70k and the ride quality in the trails when hitting it hard was perfect) i thought that the looseness of the steering was normal until I hit the trails and had to get out 5 minutes after because of not being able to have the truck under control. I don’t want the geisers on mid perch, i had eibach and the cv boot broke. This bounciness and the steering moving a lot can be feel on pavemented roads, the road has to be perfect for the truck to not feel anything.