Lack of aftermarket options with stock offset?

[kocher93]

Thanks, that's helpful to know, are you still running those wheels on your Raptor?

I am, currently on 2+ fiberglass with a solid amount of trimming and 37" Toyo MT. I really like Icon's approach to beadlocks.
I haven't lost a bead and I've only had 1 pin leak and it was so slow it would lose 10psi over a few days, quick oring swap and they're good.


That's a picture of the 315 K02 rubbing on the stock inner.


Picture of the wheel with a Toyo MT wrapped around it.

 

[neovenator]

That's kinda of all encompassing isn't it? Is it best for a 9" wide wheel? How about a 10" wide wheel?

The OEM offset is best from a function standpoint, which is why Ford engineers chose it. Things like scrub radius, ackerman, and bumpsteer are all greatly affected by the wheel offset.

Ideally, any changes to the offset should be only to adjust for any added wheel width. Since you can't go much further inward with the wheel lip/inner tire wall before you hit suspension parts, you have to change the offset so the wheel and tire package still fits. Given the stock offset of +34mm, you'd need to widen the wheel 68mm, or nearly 3" to "need" a 0 offset wheel to clear the suspension.

If you are thinking +0 looks good- that's fine, I agree it does look good. But functionally, it's not "best". Best is the wheel with the maximum amount of postive offset possible, while still not hitting the suspension.

For a while, Eagle Alloy wheels made a "Raptor fitment" wheel that used stock lugnuts, was 17x9, and had a +8 offset. They don't make them anymore unfortunately.

That's where my train of thought was going. My personal philosophy when it comes to modding, I always try to find something that is functional and is additive to my vehicle's performance, AND looks good enough to stare back at it.

If I do end up going the aftermarket route, I'd be more comfortable going +25 offset as opposed to +0 offset. I'm hoping at least the lighter wheels helps offset most of the drawbacks caused by the 9mm difference, assuming additional stress on the suspension.

I am, currently on 2+ fiberglass with a solid amount of trimming and 37" Toyo MT. I really like Icon's approach to beadlocks.
I haven't lost a bead and I've only had 1 pin leak and it was so slow it would lose 10psi over a few days, quick oring swap and they're good.

View attachment 466044
That's a picture of the 315 K02 rubbing on the stock inner.

View attachment 466049
Picture of the wheel with a Toyo MT wrapped around it.

Thanks I appreciate it, it's really helpful to have visual references

 

[neovenator]

Decided to make a quick edit on what these wheels would look like once fitted on my Raptor. Tried to match the color I saw on photos as accurate as possible. A lot more visual references for the KMC Hatchet (top) than the Black Rhino Voll (bottom).

Any thoughts between which of the two to go?

 

[EricM]

KMC wheel is way more visually appealing IMO.

 

[mtnghost]

Decided to make a quick edit on what these wheels would look like once fitted on my Raptor. Tried to match the color I saw on photos as accurate as possible. A lot more visual references for the KMC Hatchet (top) than the Black Rhino Voll (bottom).

Any thoughts between which of the two to go?
View attachment 466319

My vote is for the bottom set, but they may be a pain to clean. Why not go for the factory 09-14 forged headlock wheels? Stock offset and forged is stronger without much weight penalty. Also most here would agree they look fantastic.

 

[EricM]

Why not go for the factory 09-14 forged headlock wheels?

Where can we buy those?

 

[neovenator]

My vote is for the bottom set, but they may be a pain to clean. Why not go for the factory 09-14 forged headlock wheels? Stock offset and forged is stronger without much weight penalty. Also most here would agree they look fantastic.

Hardest part is just finding those for sale and the asking price feels a bit too much for me. But I get it, they’re an iconic design and no longer in production. Last time I saw a full set for sale, they were powdered coated bronze/copper, going for $2k with some scuffs on eBay.

I can find sets of OEM beadlocks for Gen 2 / Gen 3 all day, saw some going for $600 recently on FB marketplace, some with practically new tires for around $1500 or so.

 

[EricM]

Ford needs to pull their head out of their ass and offer those wheels through Ford Racing/Ford Racing Performance Parts/Ford Performance/What ever variation is next....

 

[JLW2]

I have the same concern. I have a used 2014 that came with Fuel 20 x 9 rims and Goodyear ultra terrain. I wanted the original bead lock capable wheels to go back to OEM 17” when time for new tires. I have the original spare which is the alloy wheel. I could not find any reasonably priced used OEM, so I’ve been looking at other options. I really like the look of my current setup as far as the amount the wheels poke out. I have not done much off-roading other than the beach, so I haven’t been able to test out any rubbing ( other than sole humps - no rib there ). I don’t think I’ll be jumping this one . If you aren’t going off-road , why worry about forged and rub.


Check out this article about wheel fitment
https://www.threepiece.us/blog/gen-1-raptor-complete-wheel-tire-guide/ It made me feel pretty good about the possibility of getting something I could live with

 

[neovenator]

I have the same concern. I have a used 2014 that came with Fuel 20 x 9 rims and Goodyear ultra terrain. I wanted the original bead lock capable wheels to go back to OEM 17” when time for new tires. I have the original spare which is the alloy wheel. I could not find any reasonably priced used OEM, so I’ve been looking at other options. I really like the look of my current setup as far as the amount the wheels poke out. I have not done much off-roading other than the beach, so I haven’t been able to test out any rubbing ( other than sole humps - no rib there ). I don’t think I’ll be jumping this one . If you aren’t going off-road , why worry about forged and rub.


Check out this article about wheel fitment
https://www.threepiece.us/blog/gen-1-raptor-complete-wheel-tire-guide/ It made me feel pretty good about the possibility of getting something I could live with

The concern about rubbing just comes from me being overly cautious as I'm new to modifying trucks + off-roaders haha, this is my first performance vehicle that isn't a coupe, sedan or hatch.

"True" forged is overkill for my use-case for 99% street road use, but the OEM beadlocks which I assume are "true" forged aren't too bad price-wise (except Gen 1) for what you get.

But if I go the aftermarket route, I'm only looking at flow / rotary forged options for the lightweightness (pointless in a 3 ton truck, I get it haha), but mainly for durability. I try to stick with OEM or better quality in parts. Our roads aren't the greatest where I live so I try to be mindful when I'm driving, but with my luck I've been able to crack "reputable" brand's aftermarket cast wheels in two of my previous cars. When I switched to flow-forged, I haven't been able to crack it with our roads that are forever under construction.

Maybe the cast wheels would survive fine on the Raptor on street driving with potholes and those sheets of metal they place over cut up roads in comparison to a car, but I really don't want to find out for myself