GEN 1 JDM Roush Upgrade kit (675/700hp)

[Rappedtor]

Some email tuning is not "best guess tuning" there’s a few companies that specialize on certain vehicles that have tuned multiple vehicles with mostly same mods. With this they give you a base tune and you start data logging and creates a much better tune even if you get a dyno tune.

Come on man, don't make this thread a shat show. I have a small business so I understand the marketing intensity but JDM seems to be the go-to for best results. Ill keep posting progress so we can get the truth in one good thread .

 

[Canuck714]

Just going to jump in here with my 2cents.
I have a 14 Roush stage 2 and JDM tune. I have 110,000 trouble free miles on mine now, and it gets used off-road. TRR, have my own short course and use it to Pre-Run for Baja (we race SXS) so its definitely not a street queen.
I still run stock driveshaft, stock oil pump, stock fuel pump, stock exhaust and still on stock cats...
Single biggest improvement from stock Roush was my JDM tune!!! Drive-ability, throttle response, acceleration all greatly improved. And better fuel mileage if you are just driving normal.

Couple things that you need to look at doing:
-JDM Tune
-Spark Plugs - NGK LT7iX (6510) (cooler heat range) and gapped for a blower
-Good fuel - I have only ever ran Shell 93. Its a busy station and always fresh. You Colorado guys probably don"t get the good stuff.
-Run the smaller Gates belt. I forget the number now. Its a pain in the ass to get on, but once you do, you will have no need for the Roush FEAD shield. I have a brand new one that I never installed once I switched to the smaller belt.
-Look into the bigger heat exchanger if you do a lot of low speed running/city driving (no airflow) or if its HOT like it is here in TX. Or if you tow like Dane.

As long as you are not trying to drag race from a dead stop on pavement, or you choose to stay in the throttle when it wheel-hops, there should be no need to replace the drive shaft. If you plan to use it in the dirt get Deavers, if it will see more pavement look into a traction bar.
The stock rear spring will hop the back of the truck off the ground the first time you romp on it..up to 40mph! They just cant take that kind of power, and it gets worse with a bigger tire.
I run a Deaver +3 with a 37 inch KM3, so I am aware that the second I feel the back hop, I get out of it. If you dont, shit will break!

To upgrade from Stage 1 to Stage 2 you can do it in your driveway with simple tools. The tune is the best part of it

 

[Landon T]

I’d agree with the above. A daily driver with only 6500 miles troublefree but I’ve done a few preventative items and left out a few.

2011 with the roush stage 2 kit.
Ngk 6510 plugs gapped down
Melling upgraded oil pump
Twin 65mm TB
PCV vent catch can on the drivers side
And best of all a JDM tune

factory everything else.

 

[Rappedtor]

Just going to jump in here with my 2cents.
I have a 14 Roush stage 2 and JDM tune. I have 110,000 trouble free miles on mine now, and it gets used off-road. TRR, have my own short course and use it to Pre-Run for Baja (we race SXS) so its definitely not a street queen.
I still run stock driveshaft, stock oil pump, stock fuel pump, stock exhaust and still on stock cats...
Single biggest improvement from stock Roush was my JDM tune!!! Drive-ability, throttle response, acceleration all greatly improved. And better fuel mileage if you are just driving normal.

Couple things that you need to look at doing:
-JDM Tune
-Spark Plugs - NGK LT7iX (6510) (cooler heat range) and gapped for a blower
-Good fuel - I have only ever ran Shell 93. Its a busy station and always fresh. You Colorado guys probably don"t get the good stuff.
-Run the smaller Gates belt. I forget the number now. Its a pain in the ass to get on, but once you do, you will have no need for the Roush FEAD shield. I have a brand new one that I never installed once I switched to the smaller belt.
-Look into the bigger heat exchanger if you do a lot of low speed running/city driving (no airflow) or if its HOT like it is here in TX. Or if you tow like Dane.

As long as you are not trying to drag race from a dead stop on pavement, or you choose to stay in the throttle when it wheel-hops, there should be no need to replace the drive shaft. If you plan to use it in the dirt get Deavers, if it will see more pavement look into a traction bar.
The stock rear spring will hop the back of the truck off the ground the first time you romp on it..up to 40mph! They just cant take that kind of power, and it gets worse with a bigger tire.
I run a Deaver +3 with a 37 inch KM3, so I am aware that the second I feel the back hop, I get out of it. If you dont, shit will break!

To upgrade from Stage 1 to Stage 2 you can do it in your driveway with simple tools. The tune is the best part of it

Did you go with a smaller pulley? And/or upgrade the throttle body?

 

[Canuck714]

Did you go with a smaller pulley? And/or upgrade the throttle body?

I run the phase 2 as is with a better heat exchanger. Mine runs strong, never felt the need to change it.

 

[Dane]

If your “email tuner” is selling you a pedal commander. That’s all I need to hear to walk away.

email tuning is “best guess” tuning. Spending that much money! Come on. Pay the extra money and get it in a dyno. Period. Aftermarket throttle body isn’t needed. Can create drivability issues. big selling points like “700hp kit” is nice and all, but what hits the ground is what actually matters.
get the Id injectors for sure..... easier to tune on a dyno at least, because they all come with a dyno sheet,graph whatever they want to call them. Can’t speak to email tuning because, again, it’s a “best guess tune” “here, this will work tune”

Yeeeeah, JDM has the email tuning pretty dialed in. Mine was perfectly spot on when I data logged it. Also, they know how to tune for longevity. If you want to tune for max balls out (screw your tranny and whatnot) I know a local guy that can dyno tune it for about $200 more than the JDM tune.

Personally my truck runs fabulous and I'd like it to keep doing so. Squeezing out a couple more horsepower at the cost of reliability isn't important to me.

I have NO idea what drivability issues you are talking about regarding the throttle body. I had my Roush package with throttle body installed at a Roush dealer. They had another identical setup minus the throttle body right there. The guy said he really liked how much more responsive it was with the throttle body. He could tell a difference.

 

[biturbomg]

Dane,

Did you ever add your lower 10% pulley?

 

[Rappedtor]

I run the phase 2 as is with a better heat exchanger. Mine runs strong, never felt the need to change it.

I was starting to consider not going with a smaller pulley but realized I have the 80mm, I believe you have the 75mm @Canuck714 .

Does anyone happen to know if you need a special tool to replace the pulley?
If so, any insight is greatly appreciated as to what it is or where it can be ordered.

Again, thank you for all of the help guys!

I believe I'll be ordering the JDM kit and leaf springs at the same time to minimize the wheel hop & avoid damage to the oil pump + drivetrain.
The heat exchanger will come as we get closer to summer.

 

[Dane]

Dane,

Did you ever add your lower 10% pulley?

I haven't, still sitting on my project shelf all nicely packed. I pulled it out to oogle at it, 'bout it so far.
Did we decide I can keep the same belt with that? Damn belt installation is already a bit of a beast.

 

[biturbomg]

you have the 69mm upper? I have the belt number you need for the 69mm upper and that lower. I will find it and send to you.