It is DONE!. Started my B&O replacement stereo install.

[goblues38]

Opinions on these? Morel Maximo 6.- component speakers On sale for 134

never have given them a listen.

Find a shop....that has a good demo board and listen to the same music from the same source and amp. you will hear the differences, and let your ears tell you what to buy.

And buy from that shop. Don't just use them for all your research then get grey label stuff off the interwebs.

 

[PlainJane]

Again, with my background...I prefer to avoid DSP at all costs. A properly set up system, does not need time alignment, signal summing, and other electronic massaging.

But, to each their own.

Harman Kardon and JBL suggest a target response curve should not be "FLAT", but raise 10 db from 15-25 Hz and then drop ~ 1 db / octave to 20KHz.

"FLAT" is the ticket for headphones.

I was not endorsing the FIX 82 or 86.

 

[goblues38]

bumping this to the top because i keep seeing the same mistakes being made

 

[GCATX]

Question. Been somewhat researching replacing the B&O sub only. It's hard to separate who has Sony and who has B&O. Also, I don't really want to do all new speakers, just a better sub, seems most are going all in.

If just adding a new sub, it seems that I will need the navtv, a sub and amp? Simply replacing the B&O sub is a waste of time?

 

[goblues38]

Question. Been somewhat researching replacing the B&O sub only. It's hard to separate who has Sony and who has B&O. Also, I don't really want to do all new speakers, just a better sub, seems most are going all in.

If just adding a new sub, it seems that I will need the navtv, a sub and amp? Simply replacing the B&O sub is a waste of time?

with the B&O, you cant just replace the sub. The B&O system is tightly integrated into the amp, and there is a bass management that reduces bass output as volume is turned up. so there is no place to get a clean signal for a new amp, and a new sub using the factory amp is not an option.

So, as you said....it is really an all or nothing. The only thing you could not replace is the rear doors. front doors and pillar tweeters must go because they are bi amped between the factory amp and an amp under the dash....when you replace the factory, the under dash amp stops working....so again...it is all or nothing.

 

[GCATX]

Well, glad I asked then. I was under the impression the NAVtv could piggy back somehow on the current stuff.

 

[goblues38]

Well, glad I asked then. I was under the impression the NAVtv could piggy back somehow on the current stuff.

factory head unit > to ZEn A2B > new Amp(s) > speakers

the ZEn A2B, takes its signal directly from the trucks can bus (think digital network). no piggy back.....the ZEN A2B replaces the factory amp (but has no amp built in).

So you need 2 parts ZEN A2B and AMP to replace the factory amp.

 

[GCATX]

I knew I needed a the NAVtv and a separate amp for the new sub. I did not know about having to replace the front speakers though. I assume that would require additional wiring, etc. More than I really care to dig into.

 

[im33303]

factory head unit > to ZEn A2B > new Amp(s) > speakers

the ZEn A2B, takes its signal directly from the trucks can bus (think digital network). no piggy back.....the ZEN A2B replaces the factory amp (but has no amp built in).

So you need 2 parts ZEN A2B and AMP to replace the factory amp.

Very well explained!
Thanks

 

[double dee]

Trying to understand how the speaker wiring is tied in when using the Nav-TV. Correct me if I'm wrong.

Use speaker harnesses on front/ rear doors to connect to factory wiring. (Metra 72-5602)

Am I tapping into factory speaker wiring at the b&o amp connector using Nav-TV instructions listing wire colors. (Right front +/- Left front +/- Right rear +/- Left rear +/-) then connect to aftermarket amp speaker output?

Then mount crossover near amp and run wire to the new tweeter at pillar.