Installing Stinger sound deadener

[2014RubyRed]

Yeah I threw it all, got more coming tomorrow, pulled the back seats, trying to decide if I'm just doing the back wall or the floor as well.

I'm doing mine right after Snoball. Gonna rip everything out and do it all. Just like the pros......

 

[RLTW]

I got bored one weekend and did all the doors, both skins. I like the results so I'm back for more.

 

[Otis857]

Just finished my front doors yesterday while upgrading my speakers for a future audio system install. Back doors, back panel & floor are already done. While I noticed incremental improvements with the back panel & floor, it really made a difference when I finished the front doors. Now, you can only hear wind noise from the windows, which is the weak link anyway. And overall, it drastically reduced tire noise from bumps, pavement cracks & the like. The only part I havent deadened now is the roof, I'm on the fence about that.

For anyone thinking about doing it, you wont be disappointed, its well worth the effort! May not be high end luxury car quiet, but pretty close and a damn sight better than stock. Now I can listen to my POS stock sound system at low levels (at the wife's request, go figure) and not lose anything due to road noise.

 

[RLTW]

so doors both inner and outer skin are done.



I just finished the back wall.



And the ceiling. I'm going to do the floor tomorrow and then figure out how to put these Legos back together.


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[jdruzik]

Wow! That's a lot of work. It looks great. I sure hope it was worth the effort...

 

[RLTW]

Wow! That's a lot of work. It looks great. I sure hope it was worth the effort...

I did the doors originally because I had squeaks and rattles that irritated the shit out of me, I knew I need to take stuff apart to figure out where they were coming from, I'd heard that sound deadener helped to take care of some of that because it removed some of the free space and quieted things down. After doing it I really enjoyed the reduction in ambient road noise, noticed my rattles were gone, and my factory stereo sounded better than before. Now I've got a bypass rack with noisy King 4.0's so I decided that I'd like to quiet that down by doing the back wall, once I got the rear seat out I realized how much of the interior I already had out and thought the floor would assist with the shock noise, and then found myself saying well why not finish it off with the ceiling. Now, after tomorrow the whole truck should be done and if the results are anything like the doors were it will have been more than worth the effort plus I didn't pay the huge money people pay shops to do this same thing.


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[2014RubyRed]

I did the doors originally because I had squeaks and rattles that irritated the shit out of me, I knew I need to take stuff apart to figure out where they were coming from, I'd heard that sound deadener helped to take care of some of that because it removed some of the free space and quieted things down. After doing it I really enjoyed the reduction in ambient road noise, noticed my rattles were gone, and my factory stereo sounded better than before. Now I've got a bypass rack with noisy King 4.0's so I decided that I'd like to quiet that down by doing the back wall, once I got the rear seat out I realized how much of the interior I already had out and thought the floor would assist with the shock noise, and then found myself saying well why not finish it off with the ceiling. Now, after tomorrow the whole truck should be done and if the results are anything like the doors were it will have been more than worth the effort plus I didn't pay the huge money people pay shops to do this same thing.


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Wait - you did a "before" sound recording, right? For the comparison? Oh shit, you didn't, did you? Now what?

 

[RLTW]

Wait - you did a "before" sound recording, right? For the comparison? Oh shit, you didn't, did you? Now what?

Why would I do that? I'll be able to tell if there's a difference. Don't need sound clips.


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[GTC-NOVA]

I did the doors originally because I had squeaks and rattles that irritated the shit out of me, I knew I need to take stuff apart to figure out where they were coming from, I'd heard that sound deadener helped to take care of some of that because it removed some of the free space and quieted things down. After doing it I really enjoyed the reduction in ambient road noise, noticed my rattles were gone, and my factory stereo sounded better than before. Now I've got a bypass rack with noisy King 4.0's so I decided that I'd like to quiet that down by doing the back wall, once I got the rear seat out I realized how much of the interior I already had out and thought the floor would assist with the shock noise, and then found myself saying well why not finish it off with the ceiling. Now, after tomorrow the whole truck should be done and if the results are anything like the doors were it will have been more than worth the effort plus I didn't pay the huge money people pay shops to do this same thing.


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Hi RLTW

Damn, this is exactly what I need to do: fix rattling in the doors, reduce noise. But after reading all this - I am overwhelmed. How hard is all this? Really - I have the time - but the more I read the more I get lost. What do you think?

Best,
GTC-NOVA

---------- Post added at 09:42 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:35 AM ----------

So, moving on to the doors.

Put a piece of painters tape on the edges of the inner, outer, and bottom edges of the black panel for reference.

To take off the doors, on the very bottom is two phillip screws, same size, take them out. Next look in the door handle area and where you put your hand to pull it closed. There is a tiny small square in there, use a tiny flathead screwdriver and pop it out. Inside is a bolt, take it out. Next is the biggest pain in the ass of the entire project, and its on all four doors. This is hard to describe and there are three or four YouTube videos that show how to get the little plastic panel inside of the door handle out. You need a hooked tool (I used a coat hanger doubled over into a hook) to reach inside of it and pop the panel out. There is a bolt in there to remove. Once you get this out, the door panel will just pull straight up, it actually comes off and goes on really easy, easier than I was expecting. So, in some videos you will see people removing the cable from the handle itself. Don't waste your time, the entire door handle part (You will see in my pic below) can easily be removed. Just reach inside the door panel and there are two clips holding the door handle to the door panel, push the clips in and the door handle pops INTO the door (towards you), once it does turn it slightly and push it inside the door. It will make more sense once you look at it and press on the little clips to remove it. Reach under the door switch panel and press in the latches to remove the electrical connectors….ok, yes, this is kinda a pain in the ass too, but not as bad as that panel clip to access the bolt. Don't get all flustered at this point because you are holding the door panel in one hand and trying to reach under and remove these clips with the other. They will come out, and its worth it for how quiet your truck will be.

Ok, once you get the door off, you will see this. TAKE A PIC of it.



Ok, notice all the cutouts for the door panel to hang on. Three on the very bottom, two up the left side, one in the middle near the metal bracket, one on the far right top. Those need to be cutout on the sound deadener. If you can't take a pic, or don't remember, use this plastic sheet as your guide. Lay it on the ground, GLUE SIDE UP, and look at it for the cutouts. Now get a tool and remove the metal bracket in the middle. After thats done, you get to play with some sticky glue. Start from the top, so gravity lets it hang, start pulling the plastic sheet from the door, it will have this sticky glue rope tape on it. Keep it on the plastic sheet !!! Don't leave it on the door, your sound deadener will cover it. After you peel it all off, lay the sheet on the ground, glue up. Its your template.

This is what you will see:



Remove the electrical connector in the middle, and the wires from the door skin right above the speaker. They are the same type of plastic connectors as the back wall. Just wiggle them and the pull out, and are reusable.

Using the painters tape as lateral edges use the same process as the back wall. Measure how long the sheet is and to make the bottom level. Next, pull a bit of brown paper off the back and stick the top portion on, roll it on, and work your way down. Do this slowly, every time you roll, lift up the sheet and look under it and figure out where the holes are for the door panel to be cut out. Once you have the general idea, roll it past that point, and stick your fingers into it, they will push in, that tells you where to make your hole, make it a square and just cut it out. Look at the door pic above, don't forget all the bolt clips in the middle of the door for the bracket, and the upper one from behind the plastic door handle panel you removed (and cursed). Lay your sheets and cut out the holes. If you look into the hole in the door skin, Ford actually put sound deadener on the exterior door skin at the factory! I also cut a sheet in half and put another sheet into the door, on the exterior skin before I covered the hole (second pic). As you get to the third sheet, just start from the top and let it hang. Cut your holes, and when you get to the speaker, let it hang and just cut as you go. Rolling then cutting. If you did the back wall first you will have the hang of it.

Drivers door :



Sheet inside of door (But from passenger door):



Remember to cut a hole at the bottom, under the speaker for the wire to come out. Remember to leave a cutout for the door unlock rod to pop up, Remember to leave a cutout for the door handle cable to come out. Reattach the wire and relate to the metal door, but wait for the rest.

YESSSSSSSS, I realize in the first picture I put the metal bracket on. It was my first attempt. It actually does not get bolted on till after the factory plastic sheets is reapplied. See next pic.



Before attaching panel make sure the door lock pin moves, use the other door to lock unlock.

Next reattach door panel. First connect the wires back to the switches. Look inside the door panel first to visualize where they go, it will help you pop them in. Easier than removing. Also, you can balance the door panel on the bottom three latch holes if you want so you don't have to hold it, but you have to pull it back out before final instillation because all of the latches have to go in at one time. Reattach the door handle thru the panel, twist it, and clip it back in. Then put the door panel up to the door, as you lower it straight down and press it up against the door, make sure the door is unlocked so the pin is as tall as it can be and put the pin in first, then align the latches and push straight down on the door, and it will be on. Reattach the bolts and put the dammed handle panel back, and small square one in, two lower phillips screws at bottom of door, and ur done.

Check all ur switches and window all the way up and down and ur ready to move to passenger door. Rinse and repeat for it.

Rear doors are in next post.

NOLA

---------- Post added at 10:32 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:20 PM ----------

So the rear doors come off in basically the same way, but easier. No metal bracket in the center, and a upper pillar to pop off.

Mark the lateral edges and bottom with painters tape

Remove the phillips screws at the bottom, then pop the dammed plastic cover from inside the door handle and remove the bolt. At the top of the door, coming off the door panel is a vertical trim piece. Use a plastic pry tool and pop it right off, comes off easy, one screw at the top of the door panel to come off. Pull the door panel straight up and reach inside of it and remove the electrical connector for the window down switch, and then pop out the door handle just like the other doors, inner clips, rotate it and push it in. Up comes the door panel

You will see this :



Same as the other doors, Take a PIC of the plastic sheeting on the door to see the holes, remove it, keeping the glue on it, and lay it on the ground, glue up.

You will see this (Although this is the other side)



Same rules as the front doors, if you choose to add deadener inside the door (I did), add it now, then mock up the sheet to hang down. Start at the top, letting it hang, peel and roll. Roll hard. Cutting out the areas for the door panel ledges to come thru. Cut around the speaker.

Reattach the panel in the reverse order. You should be an expert by this point. The top vertical panel just pops back on. Line it up and hit it, it will clip in.

Now, you have a very much quieter truck.

NOLA

---------- Post added at 10:34 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:32 PM ----------

I have no idea why the pic of the sound deadener on the inside of the door came out upside down. Maybe mods can flip it, but you get the general idea.

NOLA

Hi NOLA,

Amazing post and work you've done. I too need to get rid of the rattling in the doors and soften the road noise. Reading your exceptional post with all these pictures though - I get so overwhelmed. Is this a DIY job or you really must be extremely technically savvy? Do you have anything for me before starting with the doors to help me not screw anything?

Much appreciated,
GTC-NOVA

 

[NOLA]

Nope, its really more time consuming than anything. Its beyond simple. Once you get done and look back you will say the same. We are talking a few nuts and bolts here. Take your time and follow my guidelines, just rip a small piece of the sticky backing paper off and let the sheet hang from the top of the door, then roll it and work your way down. After you do the first sheet, you will see its easy.

1. Take pics with your iPhone before you take the parts off, and you can always look back at where you started from to reassemble.
2. Wear gloves.

NOLA