bigrig
Full Access Member
Wow very true. They got back to me on all my questions super quick! Here are the answers to my questions in case it helps anyone else with their decision.
Q: Is there a recommended backspace and offset for the Raptor (assuming 35x12.5 tires)?
A: Our most popular fitment is the 5.0" backspace/ 0 offset which works great with 35" and 37" tires with a coil lift on new Raptors. Approximately 1.5 wider per side and fits great.
Q Followup: I have a Gen1 Raptor, with Geiser Bros. progressive coils running on mid-perch. Would the 5.0 backspace/0 offset still work for me?
A: Yes that will work great. You can go with the 4.5" backspacing if you plan to run fiberglass fenders or if you want a more aggressive look, but generally the 5.0" is the best route.
Q: Is there any reason why someone would prefer to go with a centercap that was not hub-centric?
A: Since most vehicles specifically Ford use a 60 degree tapered lug nut the centering of the wheel is actually done by the studs and lugnuts and the wheel is not actually "hub centric" or "hub piloted". Hub piloted is actually like big rigs which use flanged lug nuts (no taper) and the centering of the wheel is done by the hub almost press fitting into the wheel. Due to manufacturing tolerances there is a gap in wheel bores to allow heat expansion and simply to make it easy to install so the hub isnt exactly helping structurally. Most aftermarket wheel manufacturers cut wheels to the largest bore possible to allow universal fit, some companies more universal than others of course. With all of that said all of our lab, computer, and offroad testing has shown piloting the wheel on the hub is unecessary. We have made hub piloted center caps simply to provide a service to our customers.
Q: I have been told that beadlock wheels are usually designed for a specific brand tire bead. I see a lot of BFG Baja's in the pics. Would you expect any inconveniences using Toyo MTs?
A: We have designed our beadlock pinch geometry to work well with BFG, TOYO, and Nitto without shims which seems to work well with just about anything on the market.
Q: With the raw machined wheels, are they protected in anyway or are they just raw metal?
A: Raw machined wheels are simply raw. We dont recommend clear coat unless you live near the beach or drive in northern states that salt the roads. We have found most clear coats dull or change our detailed finish not to mention they can create additional corrosion under the surface so we recommend ceramic C-Quartz detail coating or Mothers aluminum polish and a microfiber.
