In a BIND! Gen1 Complete rear end meeded NOW!

[zombiekiller]

yank the housing, send it to currie to be retubed and beefed. With new shafts, iirc, they are charging $3200ish.

 

[bigrig]

@themogul22 can you explain what happened to your rear-end that required this fix?

 

[themogul22]

Sure can.. I would love to know more about the drivetrain in the raptor vs regular f150 and would love to share my experience even though it probably won’t be too helpful.... but anyway here it goes..
Bought the truck with about 120-130k miles on it out of Missippi abt a year ago from a used dealer and everything checked out ok.. one “almost year” later of daily it with work (I am 80% farmer and 20% licensed land Realtor btw) so of course the raptor was a tremendous upgrade from my gaggle of land cruisers that i had been using for my work that’s involves being off the beaten path.. in the summer I of course had to disable traction control and drift around some turnrows at my farm but honestly nothing “crazy”. No jumping, no nasty purposely mud riding or any of that mess. Ever since I’ve owned the truck it’s had that popping noise in 4x4 only while under a slight load and I just diagnosed it as the awesom ford vacuumed hubs not engaged fully and planned to fix it after harvest.. well The evening the rear end deal happened last weekend me, the wife and our 2yr old were going to deer hunt out of the truck and I was having to cross a semi-soft turnrow so I selected 4hi,locked rear diff and DING DING DING displayed “check 4wd system”. So I thought well I’m in the boonies with my family so let me make 100% sure it DID engage but was just letting me know abt the hub situation so I proceeded to do a slow and easy breakstand/burnout to verify if I was in 2wd or it was really in 4hi but was just warning me abt vacume deal... I litterally didn’t even get the powerstall/ brakestand up to 2,000rpm and POW followed by the most hellacious spinning/clicking/popping noise I’ve ever heard..remind you I was on loose packed dirt! Not on asphalt doing a full blown burnout! we said a quick prayer and was able to limp it home is 2wd but the left rear wheel would bind and pop every rotation.. drove 20miles home, loaded up on my car hauler and since I first made my post trying to locate a complete housing and everything the dealership has one being 2day shipped from a wrecked raptor with 26kmiles on it. As you may know, no mechanic likes building rearends fir some reason plus the passenger side components were on back ordered through great ole fomoco!
So I am currently waiting on a salvaged 26k mile rearend to come in and then swap it in hopefully tomorrow...
if you want to know how bad I needed it fixed NOW/ASAP I’ll tell you what I’m paying Hixon Ford to do the complete job..-$5,399 plus tax! And that’s with me knowing the service manager and him cutting some fees down.

 

[themogul22]

yank the housing, send it to currie to be retubed and beefed. With new shafts, iirc, they are charging $3200ish.

I sincerely appreciate your advice, but everything I was getting quoted at Currie was 5,500ish on up to 15k. Even when they flat out told me That they would recommend me doing their stockish build it was still about the same price as the used one the dealer located.. plus currie was saying about 2 weeks on me receiving the parts bc of them assembling it/powder coating it and whatnot.. there is just not many rearbend failures that I’ve seen so what little off-roading I do I felt comfortable going back with factory plus keeping my ELocker... please correct me if I’m wrong on anything btw.. my main gig is street cars so I know nitrous and zo6s better than I do this raptor breed..

 

[zombiekiller]

I sincerely appreciate your advice, but everything I was getting quoted at Currie was 5,500ish on up to 15k. Even when they flat out told me That they would recommend me doing their stockish build it was still about the same price as the used one the dealer located.. plus currie was saying about 2 weeks on me receiving the parts bc of them assembling it/powder coating it and whatnot.. there is just not many rearbend failures that I’ve seen so what little off-roading I do I felt comfortable going back with factory plus keeping my ELocker... please correct me if I’m wrong on anything btw.. my main gig is street cars so I know nitrous and zo6s better than I do this raptor breed..

I think the route you're going is best for you. Currie started doing retubes for Gen2s so owners can get a widened, trussed rear without having to go with a 9". The added bennie is that all of the electronic stuff still works.

This is the route i plan to go as I'd prefer to keep ABS on the truck.

 

[themogul22]

I think the route you're going is best for you. Currie started doing retubes for Gen2s so owners can get a widened, trussed rear without having to go with a 9". The added bennie is that all of the electronic stuff still works.

This is the route i plan to go as I'd prefer to keep ABS on the truck.

I see... And yea your right abt the route I’m going because like I said I don’t do any super hardcore stuff. Just dirt roads and maybe a little drifting on them...
Your advice is appreciated and you can bet if I ever have another problem with the rearend with this 12 raptor I will be either so mad that A:trade it for a gen 2 or B: going the biggest baddest Currie route!!
Even if mine would have given me that normal “whine”(aka you have abt 20-200miles before detonation) you get before you break a rearend I would have had time to prep, plan, educate myself on the Currie stuff and would have probably actually done it just to be safe and have the best! But as stated mine just left me in a huge bind and happened out of nowhere dead in the middle of deer season with my extra farm trucks in the shop healing all their wounds from the farming year.

Quick question.. you mentioned keeping abs.. what about electronic locking? Or would you just do a nice enough Detroit/Eaton(or comparable) unit you wouldn’t care abt being fully locked?
If their able to keep elec controlled abs I would think maybe a possible option for factory style elec locker right?

 

[bigrig]

Thanks for the thorough rundown @themogul22.

130K miles is a lot of time and distance. Add to the fact that I hear Mississippi is a good place to go muddin', I am guessing the previous owner might have punished the truck without taking the proper steps to keep it tip top. I don't put much faith in dealership 30 point inspection when it is to their benefit to sell the truck.

The repair cost, now that the price tag is closer to $5K, seems more reasonable (at least for a repair in California). Sorry you are without your rig. Good luck with the repair!

 

[zombiekiller]

I see... And yea your right abt the route I’m going because like I said I don’t do any super hardcore stuff. Just dirt roads and maybe a little drifting on them...
Your advice is appreciated and you can bet if I ever have another problem with the rearend with this 12 raptor I will be either so mad that A:trade it for a gen 2 or B: going the biggest baddest Currie route!!
Even if mine would have given me that normal “whine”(aka you have abt 20-200miles before detonation) you get before you break a rearend I would have had time to prep, plan, educate myself on the Currie stuff and would have probably actually done it just to be safe and have the best! But as stated mine just left me in a huge bind and happened out of nowhere dead in the middle of deer season with my extra farm trucks in the shop healing all their wounds from the farming year.

Quick question.. you mentioned keeping abs.. what about electronic locking? Or would you just do a nice enough Detroit/Eaton(or comparable) unit you wouldn’t care abt being fully locked?
If their able to keep elec controlled abs I would think maybe a possible option for factory style elec locker right?

The gen 3 raptor units are 35 spline. just about every differential option for the ford axle is 34 spline.

I dont have a want or need to lock the rear going faster than 20mph. the truck drifts just fine in baja mode for my uses. My plan is to have currie widen and truss my rear axle to match the front ( need to have the rear axle widened 3" total to be "right". I'm currently running spacers in the rear.

There is absolutely nothing wrong with the factory rear unless you really need a locker while going fast. The spiders are the weak part of these rears and flex a bit too much under shock load when the differential is locked, thus why ford made it non-op over 20mph.

For reference, if you know how to drive smartly, you can drive the trucks just fine with the rear locked, as evidenced by the foust guys driving the 1,000 with the elocker engaged the entire time.