Icon 3.0 Shock Rebuild suggestions? Add'l parts while I'm in there?

[FishFreak]

I'm rebuilding a used set of Icon 3.0 Stage 1 resi shocks and their triple bypass version at the rear, and installing them for the first time on my 2014 Screw. Any suggestions for hot shock tuners that can improve these? Also, what else is a good idea to replace while I'm in there? I'm sure I'll need new UCA's just from the my mileage, so aftermarket suggestions appreciated, with an explanation why would be appreciated.

Backstory: I picked up a well beaten set of Icon 3.0 Stage 1 front and rear shocks off marketplace for $500 and I’ll be sending them in to either Icon or an independent shock rebuilder like Rock & Road performance for rebuilding. Anyone have feedback on that? I know Icon are not King or ADS shocks, but they’re 3.0” mono tubes, which can’t be a bad place to start from if you're on a budget, right? Wondering if y’all know of any hot shock shops that could actually improve the shocks? PO was a thrasher, jumped his G1, said he always ran them on the softest setting or just a few clicks stiffer?

Of course I'm going to repaint the bodies and springs. Interestingly, I called Icon and got a return service number, and talked to John on the phone who suggested I NOT powder coat my old springs. Said you can easily change the heat treating of the spring and possibly damage them! He said just Rustoleum rattle can them! Hmmm, springs may be a challenge to rattle can right? Any ideas here?

I’m pretty excited to get my paws on these cuz I was just looking at cheap options like rebuilding G1 or do the illustrious G2 swap with the KHC front top bucket kit. I feel both too be compromises to any 3.0’s with triple bypass R’s, am I right?

Also, I’ve got 140k easy hwy miles on my Screw. When installing the shocks, I’m thinking of upgrading UCA’s, tie rod ends, what else is mandatory to replace? I’ll add those LCA pivot alignment cams. Should I go braided brake lines and what kind suggested? How about IWE upgrades while I have it apart? Please include brands and models, good and bad. I like higher quality than OEM, but the BEST VALUE is key with me, no $3,000 uca’s, no $275 billet China Amazon junk uca’s. Will consider Icon, SVT, RGP, etc, but leaning towards cheaper chromo tubing rather than spendy billet. I’d be more excited if those alum uca’s kicked the uniball angle out, not 90 degrees to arm where it seems to be stressed at extension. Light off road, mostly blasting around the streets and towing my bass boat. TIA !

 

[Canuck714]

I'm rebuilding a used set of Icon 3.0 Stage 1 resi shocks and their triple bypass version at the rear, and installing them for the first time on my 2014 Screw. Any suggestions for hot shock tuners that can improve these? Also, what else is a good idea to replace while I'm in there? I'm sure I'll need new UCA's just from the my mileage, so aftermarket suggestions appreciated, with an explanation why would be appreciated.

Backstory: I picked up a well beaten set of Icon 3.0 Stage 1 front and rear shocks off marketplace for $500 and I’ll be sending them in to either Icon or an independent shock rebuilder like Rock & Road performance for rebuilding. Anyone have feedback on that? I know Icon are not King or ADS shocks, but they’re 3.0” mono tubes, which can’t be a bad place to start from if you're on a budget, right? Wondering if y’all know of any hot shock shops that could actually improve the shocks? PO was a thrasher, jumped his G1, said he always ran them on the softest setting or just a few clicks stiffer?

Of course I'm going to repaint the bodies and springs. Interestingly, I called Icon and got a return service number, and talked to John on the phone who suggested I NOT powder coat my old springs. Said you can easily change the heat treating of the spring and possibly damage them! He said just Rustoleum rattle can them! Hmmm, springs may be a challenge to rattle can right? Any ideas here?

I’m pretty excited to get my paws on these cuz I was just looking at cheap options like rebuilding G1 or do the illustrious G2 swap with the KHC front top bucket View attachment 477159 kit. I feel both too be compromises to any 3.0’s with triple bypass R’s, am I right?

Also, I’ve got 140k easy hwy miles on my Screw. When installing the shocks, I’m thinking of upgrading UCA’s, tie rod ends, what else is mandatory to replace? I’ll add those LCA pivot alignment cams. Should I go braided brake lines and what kind suggested? How about IWE upgrades while I have it apart? Please include brands and models, good and bad. I like higher quality than OEM, but the BEST VALUE is key with me, no $3,000 uca’s, no $275 billet China Amazon junk uca’s. Will consider Icon, SVT, RGP, etc, but leaning towards cheaper chromo tubing rather than spendy billet. I’d be more excited if those alum uca’s kicked the uniball angle out, not 90 degrees to arm where it seems to be stressed at extension. Light off road, mostly blasting around the streets and towing my bass boat. TIA View attachment 477160View attachment 477161View attachment 477162!

View attachment 477158

View attachment 477156

For the Upper control arms look at Mazzula, Kibbetech, RPG, SVC, Blitzkrieg, Camburg. They are all good parts and half the money you mentioned above.. $1500-1800 for billet.
The same companies all build chromoly tube uppers as well, but its only a couple hundred cheaper than billet.

 

[Jhollowell]

The Icon shocks are regressive shocks meaning they are stiffer off the top and get softer as you get into the travel so the on road feel will probably be a little stiffer and more harsh than a Fox or King shock. In regards to UCA's, i would recommend stock over any aftermarket. Aftermarket provide very little advantage for the cost, especially if you go with Heims. Heims wear out fairly quickly and you'll be maintaining them and replacing parts more often, again, for little benefit. The LCA cams are an absolute must for our trucks. One of the best upgrades and preventative things you can do. I would disagree with the what Icon told you about powder coating the springs. The only way you would change the heat treat is if you used a torch to remove the existing coating. the 400deg powder coat temp isn't enough to change any heat treat. However, getting that coating off will be a PIA as well as powder coating it yourself.

 

[FishFreak]

Thanks J! I looked for those lca cams online and found them as much as $100+ and as little as $39 for the 'MOOG K100070 Alignment Caster/Camber Kit for Ford F-150' on Amazon, black coated, looked no different so I'll bet this is a safe place to cut corners. As for the Icons, I read that they have digressive valving, which is commonly associated with sports car shocks, which, like you stated, means initially firm (good for say a smooth hard turn), but with an increase in piston force, the damping resistance slopes downward. It's much better than progressive, like cheap oil shocks, that resist more the faster you hit bumps and are harsh, no fun. I will ask Icon if they can make the initial damping a little lighter. Shouldn't hurt later in the stroke because of their bottoming cone design that gradually increases resistance as you reach full travel. Supposedly. I'm not done reading that sticky up top on 'shock dyno results', but maybe that'll help. Appreciate the suggestion.

I researched powder coating the springs, and read you can cure powder coat as low as 350 degrees, which may be below the about 425-450 degree annealing point of spring steel, but could it partially alter spring rate? That would suck. Yes it may be a challenge to remove the dinged, chipped old powder coat, and that might be better left to media blasting or chemical removal? Are you insinuating I should try powder coating myself? I was just looking into that, cuz I've done it on fishing lures with a Bic lighter. might be trickier with larger items, maybe cook it in the oven? Have you ever done it?

As for the UCA's, I've always gone aftermarket because the little oem ball joints seem to get thrashed quickly with big tires. I'm guessing heims wear out because they're open to dirt and don't stay lubricated? I found one little cottage Raptor shop called LSK Performance Offroad that makes a trick steel UCA with a SEALED 1.25" Uniball joint and inner pivots are fully sealed 3/4" FK Uniballs, which is a first, for me, to find those sealed, AND they're CHEAP (relatively)!!! Oh, but the bad news is they only go down to 2017 Raptors !! What's the difference? Other uca builders often encompass Gen 1 and Gen 2 Raptors??



How about IWE preventative maintenance? Anything suggested there while I've got the front end up in the air?

 

[Jhollowell]

Ahhh you're right "digressive" not regressive and you are absolutely right on how they work. I've only run OEM so I'm not familiar with how they actually feel, just stating what I've read. In regards to the springs, I've heard from Shock Therapy that powder coating springs doesn't hurt them but stripping them with heat does. IDK, maybe its different when it comes to SxS springs? I'd wonder how Icon or Fox or King coat their springs if the 350-400 degree temp affects the temper. When i mentioned the difficulty in powder coating, i was referring to how close the coils are to each other. When you have surfaces close to each other like corners of a box you have difficulties getting the powder to stick. I have a cheap eastwood powder coating gun and it doesn't do the best with stuff like that. So anything complicated i let the professionals do. Problem with that is you leave it up to them for stripping and that's where you could run into issues because they'll use the easiest fastest way to strip, which could be a torch. You also don't always know the cure temp they use (if that is actually a concern)

I haven't seen those UCA's before but if they're sealed, then its probably better than the open heims like all the others. I still don't think they're worth the money especially if you aren't using the full extension of the travel. But i get the bling factor of the aftermarket. Our OEM ones look pretty ***** on a bad ass truck like ours. I've been looking at the Baja Kits or Blitzkrieg ones if i every have $800 burning a hole in my pocket.

I don't have much experience with the IWE. I know a lot of guys do the deletes and eliminate the vacuum, but that starts spinning things that weren't designed to spin 100% of the time so that's your call. I know a lot of people do it and i haven't seen any posted issues. I have 160k on my truck and i'm on my original IWE's and IWE lines and no issues so i go with "if its not broke, don't fix it"

 

[FishFreak]

For the Upper control arms look at Mazzula, Kibbetech, RPG, SVC, Blitzkrieg, Camburg. They are all good parts and half the money you mentioned above.. $1500-1800 for billet.
The same companies all build chromoly tube uppers as well, but its only a couple hundred cheaper than billet.

Couple hundred bucks is good money to me! I don't know why, there's something that looks wrong about those billet blocks of bridge aluminum they're carving out for those uca's?? All that strength, and then a little 5/8" threaded heim joint on the frame end? All that cnc work, and the uniball joint is still at a hard 90 degree angle to the arm (except for SVC), binding at full extension? All that money when tubular chromoly steel is BETTER, lighter, stronger, more durable ?? I'll check 'em out Canuck, thanks!

 

[Canuck714]

Couple hundred bucks is good money to me! I don't know why, there's something that looks wrong about those billet blocks of bridge aluminum they're carving out for those uca's?? All that strength, and then a little 5/8" threaded heim joint on the frame end? All that cnc work, and the uniball joint is still at a hard 90 degree angle to the arm (except for SVC), binding at full extension? All that money when tubular chromoly steel is BETTER, lighter, stronger, more durable ?? I'll check 'em out Canuck, thanks!

 

[Canuck714]

This is what I am running on my 14.
I really like the stuff Chris Mazzula builds

 

[Canuck714]

Thanks J! I looked for those lca cams online and found them as much as $100+ and as little as $39 for the 'MOOG K100070 Alignment Caster/Camber Kit for Ford F-150' on Amazon, black coated, looked no different so I'll bet this is a safe place to cut corners. As for the Icons, I read that they have digressive valving, which is commonly associated with sports car shocks, which, like you stated, means initially firm (good for say a smooth hard turn), but with an increase in piston force, the damping resistance slopes downward. It's much better than progressive, like cheap oil shocks, that resist more the faster you hit bumps and are harsh, no fun. I will ask Icon if they can make the initial damping a little lighter. Shouldn't hurt later in the stroke because of their bottoming cone design that gradually increases resistance as you reach full travel. Supposedly. I'm not done reading that sticky up top on 'shock dyno results', but maybe that'll help. Appreciate the suggestion.

I researched powder coating the springs, and read you can cure powder coat as low as 350 degrees, which may be below the about 425-450 degree annealing point of spring steel, but could it partially alter spring rate? That would suck. Yes it may be a challenge to remove the dinged, chipped old powder coat, and that might be better left to media blasting or chemical removal? Are you insinuating I should try powder coating myself? I was just looking into that, cuz I've done it on fishing lures with a Bic lighter. might be trickier with larger items, maybe cook it in the oven? Have you ever done it?

As for the UCA's, I've always gone aftermarket because the little oem ball joints seem to get thrashed quickly with big tires. I'm guessing heims wear out because they're open to dirt and don't stay lubricated? I found one little cottage Raptor shop called LSK Performance Offroad that makes a trick steel UCA with a SEALED 1.25" Uniball joint and inner pivots are fully sealed 3/4" FK Uniballs, which is a first, for me, to find those sealed, AND they're CHEAP (relatively)!!! Oh, but the bad news is they only go down to 2017 Raptors !! What's the difference? Other uca builders often encompass Gen 1 and Gen 2 Raptors??

View attachment 477286

How about IWE preventative maintenance? Anything suggested there while I've got the front end up in the air?

The LSK one will work on a Gen 1 as far as I know.

 

[FishFreak]

The LSK one will work on a Gen 1 as far as I know.

Oh, I LOVE the stuff Mazzula makes for sure, just don't think it's money well spent for my use. Your suspension looks SICK Canuck!! Is there any kinda seal on the bottom of their uniball? Love those Kings and that gusset welded to your steering knuckle, is that custom or does someone stock that? Baja Kits box kit? Looks light and effective. I'll call LSK and see what they say about Gen 1 fitment. Maybe since theirs doesn't have threaded heims at the frame pivot, it can't work for G1 and G2? I don't know...