GEN 1 I need Help please - Front grinding noise
- Thread starter SVTRaptorGT500
- Start date
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OP
OP
SVTRaptorGT500
Active Member
Hello,
I am a novice, let me give it a shot ... "vacuum actuated hubs" is this the part that connects to the wheel bearing hub with the 2 holes that the vacuum tube connects to? If so, Yes
CoronaRaptor
FRF Addict
Yeah, they are called "iwe's".
Differential for 2011 Ford F-150 | TascaParts.com
www.tascaparts.com
If it’s not IWE’s might be CV’s (which I think you have), hopefully not the diff…
OP
OP
SVTRaptorGT500
Active Member
Hey,Differential for 2011 Ford F-150 | TascaParts.com
If it’s not IWE’s might be CV’s (which I think you have), hopefully not the diff…
thank you for posting that link! #5, I will need to buy also, mine has a leak. Same with the seal on the other side (i did purchase). I also purchased CV assembly for both sides. I will open the box to make sure it is complete. Now, is #3 attached to the CVs?
Here are the Cvs that I got from Rockuto
GSP | NCV11172 | CV Axle |
GSP | NCV11171 | CV Axle |
Yeah, I hope it isn't the doff ... I had to change the oil pan gasket and we ended up drooping the front diff. took me and my friend almost 2 days hehe so the less I have to mess with that the better.
OP
OP
SVTRaptorGT500
Active Member
Hello fellas,
So I have had a rough time with my truck these past 2 weeks.
I put in (both sides),
New upper control arm (stock)
Lower ball joints (moog)
New calipers
IWE/actuators (I don't know the correct name. I know it's one of the two)
Wheel bearing hub (I had put them on like a month prior)
RPG tierods (?'s On these later)
CV axle seals
CV axles
Issue 1:
So I go to rent the ball joint press tool from one of the auto parts store. I notice that the middle sized ring that fits my LBA's is kind of beat up. Well turns out that it's also missing parts. (The top cap) so I end up using a pair of pliers to put in the passenger side LBA. On the driver's side I try to do the same but that ring was really neat up and crooked so it went off center and I ended up breaking the LBA, the rim breaks. I had to get with rockauto and buy a replacement. Along with that I bought a LBA press from Amazon. So the part came in about 4 days or so later and installed it in about 5 minutes. Woohoo
Issue 2: I was putting in the tie rod on the driver side (passenger side went in without a prob) and end up making the pin come loose. I tried to take off the pin to reseat it, but somehow I stripped the pin and I had to cut it out with a grinder. I had to order a new pin. So I had to wait a bit more but the replacement that came in wasn't the same as the original pin. It seems thinner than the other side. The passenger side pin is like a bronze color and the replacement they sent is like a stainless steel color. I think it's a little smaller than the other one. I ended up having to ream the holes to get them to come out of the bottom. 5/8 ream. In the video by RPG the installer doesn't show the hole being reamed. So I installed it though.
Issue 3: I put in the new CV axle and get it all seatedand out the knuckle in with the new IWE and it's lined iluo with the wheel hub ... I set my torque to 35 ... Or so I thought. I end up breaking the nut and stuff off of the CV. So I orde a new part and have to wait another 4 days or so.
So now my truck is there and I need to take it to an alignment shop, the next available day is Tuesday 6.28.22
Can any of you guys give me some pointers on trying to get a decent enough alignment so I can drive my truck to the shop? Like, how can I get the steering wheel in the center position so that I can adjust the tierods accordingly?
Also, I'll keep you updated on that grinding noise. I will say, when I went to take off the old CV axles, they pretty much just slid right out ... No struggle at all. The new CV axle that broke and I had to remove was a **** getting it out.
Thanks in advance!
So I have had a rough time with my truck these past 2 weeks.
I put in (both sides),
New upper control arm (stock)
Lower ball joints (moog)
New calipers
IWE/actuators (I don't know the correct name. I know it's one of the two)
Wheel bearing hub (I had put them on like a month prior)
RPG tierods (?'s On these later)
CV axle seals
CV axles
Issue 1:
So I go to rent the ball joint press tool from one of the auto parts store. I notice that the middle sized ring that fits my LBA's is kind of beat up. Well turns out that it's also missing parts. (The top cap) so I end up using a pair of pliers to put in the passenger side LBA. On the driver's side I try to do the same but that ring was really neat up and crooked so it went off center and I ended up breaking the LBA, the rim breaks. I had to get with rockauto and buy a replacement. Along with that I bought a LBA press from Amazon. So the part came in about 4 days or so later and installed it in about 5 minutes. Woohoo
Issue 2: I was putting in the tie rod on the driver side (passenger side went in without a prob) and end up making the pin come loose. I tried to take off the pin to reseat it, but somehow I stripped the pin and I had to cut it out with a grinder. I had to order a new pin. So I had to wait a bit more but the replacement that came in wasn't the same as the original pin. It seems thinner than the other side. The passenger side pin is like a bronze color and the replacement they sent is like a stainless steel color. I think it's a little smaller than the other one. I ended up having to ream the holes to get them to come out of the bottom. 5/8 ream. In the video by RPG the installer doesn't show the hole being reamed. So I installed it though.
Issue 3: I put in the new CV axle and get it all seatedand out the knuckle in with the new IWE and it's lined iluo with the wheel hub ... I set my torque to 35 ... Or so I thought. I end up breaking the nut and stuff off of the CV. So I orde a new part and have to wait another 4 days or so.
So now my truck is there and I need to take it to an alignment shop, the next available day is Tuesday 6.28.22
Can any of you guys give me some pointers on trying to get a decent enough alignment so I can drive my truck to the shop? Like, how can I get the steering wheel in the center position so that I can adjust the tierods accordingly?
Also, I'll keep you updated on that grinding noise. I will say, when I went to take off the old CV axles, they pretty much just slid right out ... No struggle at all. The new CV axle that broke and I had to remove was a **** getting it out.
Thanks in advance!
CoronaRaptor
FRF Addict
Idk how far you have to go to an alignment shop, if its under 100 miles, I dont think you have anything to worry about, you can use a tape measure on the front of the tires and then behind the tires to get your tie rods adjusted close enough. I drove over 1000 miles home from Vegas with my steering wheel stripe at 9oclock, no damage to my tires.
There is a specific installation procedure to follow when replacing the IWEs. The IWE needs to be compressed and the CV shaft depth needs to be measured to ensure correct installation. Otherwise you will have repeat failures.
If you didn’t loosen the LCA pivot bolts I’d just get the toe in/out “close enough” with the steering wheel centered and eyeballing the tires, check with a tape measure and match front/rear as @CoronaRaptor said (I think spec is pretty close to zero anyway?). Also unless you know the alignment shop real well, check the torque on those LCA pivot bolts after alignment just in case, they can work loose and not all shops will torque to spec. Also the SPC alignment cam bolts/nuts are worth the upgrade. Good luck!!
OP
OP
SVTRaptorGT500
Active Member
Ok, so I got my alignment today. It is rock solid! I am very happy with it. It is also running a lot smoother than before. But, that noise is still there.
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