how to reduce intake temps/manifold intake temp without FM IC

[nikhsub1]

I nearly ruined a nice custom Koyo radiator in one of my race cars using that crap... Love Redline oils but water wetter is marketing crap.

If you can’t get actual lab-quality surfactant (usually dry granule), one or two drops of plain old dish soap provides enough surfactant for most radiators...any more and you risk cavitation from all the other stuff in there that causes it to foam.

Edit: what d’ya know, you can get some on Amazon. Honestly don’t know how it reacts with whatever antifreeze you’re running, so be careful and do your own homework. If I’m pushing my track cars hard in the summer I run a teaspoon or so of that with straight deionized water that you can buy at the grocery store by the gallon. I run a regular 50:50 mix of deionized water and whatever antifreeze is on sale in the winter.

Water Wetter has solids in it and it creates a white hazy film on everything. Hy-Per Lube does not. Pretty sure both don't do all that much, but like I said, I'd personally avoid WW and go with the Hy-Per Lube.

 

[Wojciech Gierczynski]

Yes. I'm using the Cobb OTS Stage 1-93 octane tune and my truck runs great. I've only done some minor monitoring with the Accessport but it appears the Mishimoto IC is doing a better job than the stock IC. I also moved my plate over and have full, uninterrupted airflow to the IC.

I was happy with the Mishimoto IC- good build, solid company, and the install was designed to be a stock replacement with no cutting or removing of fans. The other thing I like is that Mishimoto is located close enough to me that if I ever had any issues I could get to them. I will tell you it's a tight fit but it works (put the fans up with the IC as a single unit when installing). I also liked their rubber gasket around the front of the IC to seal it to the opening. If anything it probably does more to dampen vibrations but it was exactly what I was looking for. Also, in my case one of the Ford IC hose clamps was mangled from the factory, and once removed was a goner. So I'd recommend having a few extra high-quality t-bold clamps available to ensure you can finish the install once you start.

I've also been wondering if the Mishimoto would be sufficient to work well with the Cobb Stage 2 or Goosetuned. If you find anything out please post. Thanks.

Did you ever went to Stage 2 with your Mishimoto Intercooler?

 

[Seartrip]

Woj- I didn't. I've been happy with the Stage 1 and the so far the Mishimoto has been trouble free. Sorry I can't add more, but so far I have no regrets with my setup.

 

[FordTechOne]

I’m in south Florida, just did the Cobb goosetuned. Picked up really good power. Flushing coolant next week and doing distilled water and water wetter. I put water wetter in all my cars, costs $10 and drops temps down. I will also wrap the charge pipes and intake with dei gold foil heat reflective wrap. Hoping this will do the trick.

Remember, coolant isn’t just there to prevent the water from freezing. It contains corrosion inhibitor and surfactant additive packages, lubricates the water pump, and raises the boiling point of water (50/50 mix).

These engines were never designed to run purely water, which means that areas of the cooling system (turbos, etc) may reach temperatures after shutdown that are high enough to boil the water off. When the water boils, you end up with bubbles/cavitation that damage engine components.

If you are still under warranty, you will effectively be voiding you’re cooling system warranty as well. Any cooling system/component failure that can be attributed to corrosion, overheating, or cavitation will not be covered. Definitely something to consider when making a change like that.

 

[nikhsub1]

Remember, coolant isn’t just there to prevent the water from freezing. It contains corrosion inhibitor and surfactant additive packages, lubricates the water pump, and raises the boiling point of water (50/50 mix).

These engines were never designed to run purely water, which means that areas of the cooling system (turbos, etc) may reach temperatures after shutdown that are high enough to boil the water off. When the water boils, you end up with bubbles/cavitation that damage engine components.

If you are still under warranty, you will effectively be voiding you’re cooling system warranty as well. Any cooling system/component failure that can be attributed to corrosion, overheating, or cavitation will not be covered. Definitely something to consider when making a change like that.

Yeah it's a really bad idea to use no coolant - not because it's thermal properties are good, they are actually really ****** compared to straight water - but the biggest concern, as mentioned is corrosion since there are many mixed metals. Pressurizing the system raises the boiling point of pure water too though. At 15psi (not sure the exact cooling system pressure so used this as a general starting point) water's boiling point is raised to 250 degrees from 212 at no PSI.

tl;dr - It is highly inadvisable to run any modern engine with pure water.

 

[TRMFAM]

Has anyone tried the Evans products in the Raptor?

I have had tremendous luck with them in RZR / TRX450R and F350 PS Diesel applications...really helped to keep them much cooler.

https://www.evanscoolant.com/

 

[nikhsub1]

Has anyone tried the Evans products in the Raptor?

I have had tremendous luck with them in RZR / TRX450R and F350 PS Diesel applications...really helped to keep them much cooler.

https://www.evanscoolant.com/

Pretty sure it's glycol based - glycol has ****** thermal properties. Yes it is great for corrosion resistance and raising the boiling point but it will keep components hotter. I'd not use it for the sheer fact that if you had a problem Ford would likely give you the finger.