How To: Adjust the Fox Shock Perch / Height / Level the Front

[HAYNES OFFROAD]

^^rofl

 

[JasonHutter]

So is this something that you did yourself or do you work for a shop that is doing this? I'm not looking to get too crazy with my Raptor but will most likely be pre-running the 2012 Baja 1000 with it! We are trying to plan for 5-7 days to get through the whole pre-run so we don't beat it up too bad! This looks like something I might be interested in doing as long as it doesn't cost as much as buying the 3" up-grades!

Jason

BTW, Nice Job SDHQ - I agree with "ChartGuy" and "KaiserM715" sounds like they have done their homework. I do shock valving on all sorts of off road cars from UTV's to Trophy Trucks. The triple internal bypass shock is a very difficult shock to re-valve. Thus, why they call it position sensitive... Like it's Female or something!

For a REAL SPRING COMPRESSOR, see pictures below. Its just at $300 but worth every penny.









I am in the process of revalving the Factory FOX SVT Shocks and we are taking it to another level. Yes, you guys are correct that the internal bypass holes inside the shock work a bit better with the spring perch at the middle position. Yes, the truck will work better with Deavers or National Springs setup - BUT, they also work amazingly well with the factory springs. We are valving them for all setups. We do additional work inside the shock besides just creating a new valve stack for compression and rebound. We weld up some of the internal bypass holes and change - what we call Butteryfly shims that cover a bypass hole. This will make the ride on the street a lot more comfortable as well as really increase the off road capabilities. Remember that rear end hop (Like a Bucking Bronco)? Well, this new valving will help settle that down. Have you noticed how the front end launches itself back up in the air after a hard "jump" landing? We got that covered too with a lot more rebound front and rear. The secret is to get the internal bypass hole dialed in with the spring force and have the valving shims do all the rest of the work. Adding more compression valving front and rear keeps it off the bump stops and makes the truck just that much more fun to drive.

Here is a pic of the internal bypass tube inside the shock.

 

[Ni9mm]

Has anyone done this themselves. I don't have a grease monkey in my back pocket but from the instructions it seems fairly easy. Anybody have recommendations or advise ?

 

[kawie95]

-According to an SVT engineer: "[Leveling the nose via the perch adjustment described below...] It all depends on what you want to do with it. Using the detents would raise the front ride height of the truck and would give you more jounce travel, but take away rebound travel. This would really change how the truck rides and handles on and offroad especially when taking in consideration how we tuned the bypass shocks and how they ramp up damping force.

I do a lot of balls-out desert bottoming out too big whoop action with my truck, as well as crazy urban street driving 50+ over big speed bumps etc. Stock gets me by. But would top perch give me more travel and a better off-road ride, or "just look cool" on the street? I need maximum reliability and performance off-road, and if stock is where that's at, I'll leave it.

Thoughts? (besides on my driving style)

 

[Madcowranch]

I do a lot of balls-out desert bottoming out too big whoop action with my truck, as well as crazy urban street driving 50+ over big speed bumps etc. Stock gets me by. But would top perch give me more travel and a better off-road ride, or "just look cool" on the street? I need maximum reliability and performance off-road, and if stock is where that's at, I'll leave it.

Thoughts? (besides on my driving style)

The truck can take a harder nose dive on middle or top perch better without sustaining a dented skid plate or ripped out wheel well. Especially if you put a heavy-ass bumper on the front.

 

[BIRDMAN]

i'm gonna go back to middle perch tomorrow(from top). nice refresher.

 

[kawie95]

The truck can take a harder nose dive on middle or top perch better without sustaining a dented skid plate or ripped out wheel well. Especially if you put a heavy-ass bumper on the front.

Thanks! I ripped mine out last week on the whoops. Hit the top of the liner at scrunched the rear portion of it pretty good (by the wire clips).Luckily tizzle had 2 extras he was scrapping in excellent condition. Its at the dealer now getting it in. Took the old one out, had to rip it all the way. Couldn't figure out how to get the new one in so took it to Ford.

Anyone know where I can get this done in the Los Angeles or Southern CA area? Saw someone in Phoenix, but thats an 8 hr drive

 

[KaiserM715]

I really want to go to the middle perch (esp after talking to Greg this past weekend at the run). Does anyone have the torque specs for the tie-rod end, upper ball joint and all of the shock bolts? If only I had the service manual....

 

[Squatting Dog]

I really want to go to the middle perch (esp after talking to Greg this past weekend at the run). Does anyone have the torque specs for the tie-rod end, upper ball joint and all of the shock bolts? If only I had the service manual....

It was great talking to you. I am going to several write ups/reviews of my setup. I feel very confident in my setup after the run with NO damage (2 ply tires held up with no chunking). And despite the everyones concern at IHOP about my fenders being ripped off by my negative offset, I came home with NO damage.

RPG will be doing a bunch of "how to" videos in the near future..

-Greg

 

[Madcowranch]

I really want to go to the middle perch (esp after talking to Greg this past weekend at the run). Does anyone have the torque specs for the tie-rod end, upper ball joint and all of the shock bolts? If only I had the service manual....

I think I got mine from Pirate. Maybe he could post those up again.