Highly Modified 2014 Gen 1 Raptor

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Dudebrodude

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Unfortunately there’s a pattern of certain individuals who become extremely defensive when reality doesn’t align with their perception or understanding. These people can be easily identified because their immediate defense mechanism is to bring up newer models that make them feel insecure.

Back to your truck, even if you’re just going to run truck on the street, the oil pump upgrade is well worth the cost compared with a new engine. To be clear, there is nothing wrong with the OE pump or it’s design. The issue is caused by shock loading on the crankshaft as a result of the load the supercharger drive exerts on the crank.

Another issue to be aware of is valve spring failure; it’s are not common in general, but the consequences are typically catastrophic. They tend to fail at higher mileage (100k+), and the added heat transfer from the combustion chamber to the cylinder head due to the increased combustion temperatures certainly won’t help. The coolant jacket was never intended to dissipate the heat of developing 200HP more than stock.

In regards to the rotating assembly, it’s robust in factory form, but was never designed for the massive cylinder pressures that F/I can generate, especially at low RPM. At that point the weak point becomes the connecting rods.

Piston and combustion chamber design is also unique for F/I applications. There is a huge difference in air flow characteristics, scavenging, and atomization between an N/A and F/I engine.

If your truck is just a weekend toy, it will probably be fine with just the oil pump
upgrade. But if you’re running it hard, it will eventually fail. And certainly don’t tow with it, that’s asking for disaster.
Can you share examples of these 6.2 motors blowing with F/I? Outside of the oil pump upgrade, I have been looking into them and seems like only a handful have had issues and its usually when they push them to 600+whp.
 

FordTechOne

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Can you share examples of these 6.2 motors blowing with F/I? Outside of the oil pump upgrade, I have been looking into them and seems like only a handful have had issues and its usually when they push them to 600+whp.
Plenty of examples on this forum alone. Jross993, MTF, MurderedoutSVT, Blacktor, and bsounders80 have all blown up 6.2s due to adding F/I.
 
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decodo

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I read the same thing about the pump being needed after 600 but plenty say its ok for 550 ish hp… better spend a few hundred and not regret it if something happens… Upgraded oil pump it is!! 500$ for the part say another 500 for install.. in the grand scheme of things its not a big expense!

Thanks @FordTechOne
 

emerald_nomad - RLTW

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Hey guys,

So i just got this truck as a very impulsive buy as soon as it hit the market. Still a little hesitant as I usually stay away from engine mods in my vehicles, but this one was done right. Anything I should be aware of for the near future in terms of problems. I got the car checked out by ford and no red flags. The previous owner sunk a lot of money into this truck. Sitting at 60.000 miles. Dyno results at 565hp.

What suspension mods would you suggest as thats the only thing thats not touched from what I can see?

THANKS GUYS!!!

The mods done are listed below.. Big $ items are in BOLD. Got all invoices totalling 50.000 cad$. I couldnt believe it but the Raptor decals from ford was 3200$ cad with invoices. That is the only silly expense i saw, which should be 320$ maybe not 3200$.


supercharger emblems
LED Drive Lights
Raptor Decals. -
Magna Flow Muffler
LED Flashy Lights
Rear Smoked Tail Lights-
LED Interior Light Kit
Billet Raptor Hitch Cover
Chrome Hood Vents
Chrome side vents
Brushed Door Trim Panels Raptor
Raptor Floor Mats
Raptor Calliper Covers Red
SS Interior Raptor Interior Kit
Warn Winch
Front Stealth Bumper with Lights
Rear Stealth Bumper with Lights

SS Hardware
Stubby Antenna
Window Tints to match rear
Smoked LED Truck Bed Top
Raptor SVT White Illuminated Emblem Set -
Black Anodized Aluminum Raptor Door Sill Plates
Whipple Tuner Super Charger Kit
Heat Exchanger
Software SVT Tuning
Custom Software Tuning
16 Custom Iridium Plugs
Raptor Catted Headers
Raptor Custom Pipes (Exhaust)
Ceramic Coating in High Temp inside and out Headers
Paint Work Mirrors Flares Train Horn

G4 Elite Series Fold-A- Way Cover
Personal Caddy & Folding Tray for Cover
Upgraded Custom Built Drive Shaft


Absolutely gorgeous truck OP. I myself am an impulsive buyer (at times) and it’s bit me in the toosh a few times, but you seem to have found a great one!

I was lucky enough to have bought my gen 1 with svc/fox3.0 everything underneath and if you run out of things to want to tinker with jump on the suspension train. You’re not going to “need” it (from what you’ve stated) but it’s a noticeable difference from stock IMO. Definitely go ahead and rebuild the stock fox shox if they haven’t already been rebuilt, but if you get the itch later down the line put the stockers on the shelf and take the plunge!

How many miles has your gen 1 been supercharged? (I may have missed that with all the back and forth relevant/irrelevant messages) If they dumped over $50k in the engine bay they may have already rebuilt the shox?
 

EricM

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Don't worry about the engine oil pump gears. FordTech1 is a Gen 2 nancy.

Anything can be blown up by certain types of owners. If it's run this far, it'll likely go another 200K- assuming you don't try to break it.

Here's the thing with Ford engines- they rarely fail late in the game unless they are not maintained. Anything that is running good at 10K miles will likely go another 200K+ miles if you simply change the oil and maintain the fluid levels.

There are plenty of engines that shit the bed with bad oil pump gears, scuffed cylinders from too tight PTW, broken valve springs, bolts that come loose- but they generally happen early on and then you don't hear of that anymore.

However, the ghosts of those engines live on in people's heads who remember or read about the early failures. They will constantly yell "oil pump gears!" when it's not needed.

If you build a new shortblock, sure put billet gears in there- but it simply is not worth the money to tear down a perfectly good engine to put billet geas in there unless you are doing it yourself as a hobby and the labor is free. If you are paying someone to do it, you are better off to save that money and put it towards a built engine if the stock engine does let go. Jsut the labor to install the billet gears will get buy a nice low milage 6.2L to start the build with.
 

FordTechOne

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Don't worry about the engine oil pump gears. FordTech1 is a Gen 2 nancy.

Anything can be blown up by certain types of owners. If it's run this far, it'll likely go another 200K- assuming you don't try to break it.

Here's the thing with Ford engines- they rarely fail late in the game unless they are not maintained. Anything that is running good at 10K miles will likely go another 200K+ miles if you simply change the oil and maintain the fluid levels.

There are plenty of engines that shit the bed with bad oil pump gears, scuffed cylinders from too tight PTW, broken valve springs, bolts that come loose- but they generally happen early on and then you don't hear of that anymore.

However, the ghosts of those engines live on in people's heads who remember or read about the early failures. They will constantly yell "oil pump gears!" when it's not needed.

If you build a new shortblock, sure put billet gears in there- but it simply is not worth the money to tear down a perfectly good engine to put billet geas in there unless you are doing it yourself as a hobby and the labor is free. If you are paying someone to do it, you are better off to save that money and put it towards a built engine if the stock engine does let go. Jsut the labor to install the billet gears will get buy a nice low milage 6.2L to start the build with.
No, you’re just a Gen 1 mouth breather. Nothing I provided in here has anything to do with a Gen 2. But since you’re an insecure crybaby, you constantly feel the need to make the comparison.

Funny how you’ve consistently recommended upgrading the oil pump gears for an S/C application in the past, but as soon as I recommend it you claim it’s not necessary. You don’t care about what’s best for OP or anyone else, you care about starting arguments and acting like a child. You’re a sad case.

These are your responses to other members asking what supporting mods should be done when adding a supercharger:
Same thing goes for all OEM georotor style oil pumps though. The 6.2L is no better or worse. All 4.6L, 5.0L and 5.4L mod motors and all LSX engines have the same setup with cast gears. Any gear failure = trashed engine. Therefore any "build" of engines with this type of pump should always get billet gears.
You want billet gears if you are upgrading. Not much out there for the 6.2L.

You can just replace the gears:
https://www.boundarypumps.com/ford-v8/raptor-62l-oil-pump-gears

LMS gears come with a new housing:
https://www.livernoismotorsports.com/product/LPP701108

That's nice. Didn't know they made on for the 6.2L. The billet housing is nice an upgrade from the stock cast unit. The stock castings been know to flex at higher pressures, which of course can cause issues with the gears rotating within.
 
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decodo

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Holy…. Is the gen1 vs gen2 like a democrat vs republican battle?:)

Il just take the entire engine out and put a ram trx hemi engine in it… end of debate! Now everyone is on the same side!!

All jokes aside you guys have lots of passion on this forum. Its impressive to read really!
 

yoopercharged

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Holy…. Is the gen1 vs gen2 like a democrat vs republican battle?:)

Il just take the entire engine out and put a ram trx hemi engine in it… end of debate! Now everyone is on the same side!!

All jokes aside you guys have lots of passion on this forum. Its impressive to read really!
Yeah... That debate is a pretty common theme around these parts. It certainly gets old.
 
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