Help with OEM kicker Sub

[lateralis]

I honestly think it has to do with the wiring difference between the sync 2 and sync 3 APIM. You could compare the stock vs the new plugs and see if all wires are used or not. Also wouldn't hurt if you have Forscan to see if there is some option in there that you can turn on or something. Other than that I think you might be SOL since the company can't seem to help you either. I kinda have a hard time believing they wouldn't know that though since they made the thing. You're probably better off at this point just upgrading and putting in a better sub, sub box and amp.

Have you tried putting it back to stock just to verify that it still works and the amp/sub isn't dead?

 

[Turbogoat324]

Dang yeah actually i haven't tried calling Kicker. So I measured the voltage and the main power wire is 12.4 v the main ground is 20mV. Then the small purple wire is .1mV, small white wire is 305mV and the small black wire is 341mV. Not sure what they should be but Definitley confirmed main power and ground to the amp

 

[lateralis]

Dang yeah actually i haven't tried calling Kicker. So I measured the voltage and the main power wire is 12.4 v the main ground is 20mV. Then the small purple wire is .1mV, small white wire is 305mV and the small black wire is 341mV. Not sure what they should be but Definitley confirmed main power and ground to the amp

Ok with that you definitely see that you are not getting a trigger signal to turn the amp on. I'm just guessing but I think the purple wire is your trigger which should be a +12Vdc signal. The small black and white wire I'm assuming is the positive (white) and negative (small black) for the actual stereo signal. The 305mV might be a good sign as to it is actually getting music through it depending on how high the signal lvl is supposed to cap out at. I'd guess 4Vs max but don't quote me on that.

So this is what I would do.

1) Measure voltage at the FAT Red wire with everything OFF. If it is zero we can get ghetto with it later.
2) Re-install all of your Sync 2 stuff. Yeah that sucks but you need data.
3) Turn the stereo on. You can have something playing but it doesn't matter.
4) Measure the skinny wires and find the +12V. That's the Amp turn on trigger. I'm guessing purple.
5) Get a signal generator app on your phone (test tone app) and play a 40 to 60HZ sine wave at about lvl 10 volume should work.
6) Measure the skinny wires that aren't the trigger. I'm guessing the White is the positive signal and you only will need to pay attention to one of them. Write this number down.
7) Re-install your Sync 3 stuff.
8) Repeat steps 5 and 6 and compare the voltage. If you get about the same Voltage as you did with the Sync 2 stuff you can assume you have a stereo signal going to the amp. This is good.
9) If in step 1) you have NO +12V reading with the power off you can tap a wire from there to the wire that is supposed to be the trigger wire (again i think its purple). If there is power there you are going to have to figure out a different source to tap for a +12V signal to turn the amp on.

The big key with this is IF you are actually getting a stereo signal to the amp. I really don't know what the amp is supposed to be getting if its high lvl or low lvl inputs. I'm guessing low so a range of 0-4Vs.

 

[Turbogoat324]

Ok with that you definitely see that you are not getting a trigger signal to turn the amp on. I'm just guessing but I think the purple wire is your trigger which should be a +12Vdc signal. The small black and white wire I'm assuming is the positive (white) and negative (small black) for the actual stereo signal. The 305mV might be a good sign as to it is actually getting music through it depending on how high the signal lvl is supposed to cap out at. I'd guess 4Vs max but don't quote me on that.

So this is what I would do.

1) Measure voltage at the FAT Red wire with everything OFF. If it is zero we can get ghetto with it later.
2) Re-install all of your Sync 2 stuff. Yeah that sucks but you need data.
3) Turn the stereo on. You can have something playing but it doesn't matter.
4) Measure the skinny wires and find the +12V. That's the Amp turn on trigger. I'm guessing purple.
5) Get a signal generator app on your phone (test tone app) and play a 40 to 60HZ sine wave at about lvl 10 volume should work.
6) Measure the skinny wires that aren't the trigger. I'm guessing the White is the positive signal and you only will need to pay attention to one of them. Write this number down.
7) Re-install your Sync 3 stuff.
8) Repeat steps 5 and 6 and compare the voltage. If you get about the same Voltage as you did with the Sync 2 stuff you can assume you have a stereo signal going to the amp. This is good.
9) If in step 1) you have NO +12V reading with the power off you can tap a wire from there to the wire that is supposed to be the trigger wire (again i think its purple). If there is power there you are going to have to figure out a different source to tap for a +12V signal to turn the amp on.

The big key with this is IF you are actually getting a stereo signal to the amp. I really don't know what the amp is supposed to be getting if its high lvl or low lvl inputs. I'm guessing low so a range of 0-4Vs.

thanks for the advice! So I put the factory Sync and screen back and the amP/sub worked. The measurements I got with the OEM 800A sync was thick red wire 12.4v, thick black wire 50mV, Small purple wire 6.4 V,small white wire 4.76V , and small black wire 4.79 V

 

[The Car Stereo Company]

thanks for the advice! So I put the factory Sync and screen back and the amP/sub worked. The measurements I got with the OEM 800A sync was thick red wire 12.4v, thick black wire 50mV, Small purple wire 6.4 V,small white wire 4.76V , and small black wire 4.79 V

the 6v is a data turn on the 4v is signal. it appears your turn on isnt compatable

 

[lateralis]

thanks for the advice! So I put the factory Sync and screen back and the amP/sub worked. The measurements I got with the OEM 800A sync was thick red wire 12.4v, thick black wire 50mV, Small purple wire 6.4 V,small white wire 4.76V , and small black wire 4.79 V

Well at least we know what's going on now. Looks like not only is Sync 3 not sending a turn on signal for the amp but it also isn't sending actual music signal either.

You can triple check when you put the Sync 3 stuff back in and running that test tone again. Measure at the small white and black wires. You should see the same 4.7V if Sync 3 is sending signal. I'm guessing you won't see anything though. If you do get 4.7V you would need to figure out a 6V (Not 12) accessory trigger to turn the amp on.

Only thing I can think of to help you is to rummage through the Forscan documentation to see if there is some sort of sub woofer setting. A good place to look would be on the F150 forums as they have a lot of documentation there.

As it is right now though looks like you won't be able to do anything with your stock stuff. Sorry man, it's probably more worth while at this point to go aftermarket.

 

[Turbogoat324]

Damn! Oh well! Thank you guys for all the help!

 

[smurfslayer]

troubleshooting steps from @lateralis are spot on.

Now, if we only had a supporting vendor around here on FRF who could help a brother out with a plan for a Car Stereo upgrade that wouldn’t be so much of a headache. Who do we know that could do such a thing?

 

[The Car Stereo Company]

troubleshooting steps from @lateralis are spot on.

Now, if we only had a supporting vendor around here on FRF who could help a brother out with a plan for a Car Stereo upgrade that wouldn’t be so much of a headache. Who do we know that could do such a thing?

no clue.... i dont push to make sales at every opportunity, i just answer questions when needed and try to help out

 

[smurfslayer]

Exactly why I search for Raptor stuff from supporting vendors first.