Help with OEM kicker Sub

[Turbogoat324]

@smurfslayer Brown connector is going into the amp and grey is coming out the other side

 

[Turbogoat324]

.

 

[lateralis]

What all was replaced going to SYNC3?

Since Sync3 trucks have the option of the B&O system the amp configuration is different. It looks like the Sony system has an independent amp for the subwoofer? The B&O is like an all in one so that might be the issue.

 

[smurfslayer]

My bet is that brown conn. has power, ground and +12v signal. With ignition on or radio on, it should have power. Confirm. Also, confirm your power and ground independently.

--Just-- in case. I’m thinking the above will simply rule out the wiring. I’m with @lateralis ; I think this is the accompanying sync mods.

 

[Turbogoat324]

Ok I'll check! The APIM and screen were what were changed. Along with the USB hub and then the adapter harness. So am I kinda of out of luck if thats the case? Or is there a way I can program/manually connect to a different wire to get the amp/sub back? Would I need an APIM from the Sony System? My car had base audio if that changed anything

 

[GCATX]

Out of curiosity, how was the bass out of the kicker sub, before you made the changes?

 

[The Car Stereo Company]

what year is your truck?

 

[Turbogoat324]

My truck is a 2017 @The Car Stereo Company

 

[Turbogoat324]

So I should se source on power wire and almost nothing on ground and what should I see in the 2 signal wires?

 

[Turbogoat324]

Sorry to bump this again but is there anyway to hook this up so it will work with the new sync 3 system I installed or am I kind of out of luck?