Hey i called to kings shocks and they do not offer 700/20" spring rate for 2.5" body shocks.
I drop shocks to 120psi to make it softer, but even that shocks will not pack easily.
Kings are outdated they do not has a instruction manual for the shock either. Fox shocks do has instruction manual for the bypass explaining how to tune it
King doesn't, but PAC does.
I'm running an 18" 700 psi main with a 6" 500psi tender.
2.5x10" coilover with f12/10 valving
2.5x10" bypass with 20/12 valving, wide open on compression and rebound during the winter.
6 turns out on compression, 8 turns out on rebound during the summer.
With the bypass open, it rides like a cloud, with it closed it's a whoop eating machine. Brenthel did a great job on the valving that's included with their kit.
Follow this guide for tuning:
Compression deals with shock upstroke/ rebound deals with shock down stroke.
Turning the allen screw clockwise (close) will decrease the amount of bypass making the shocks compression/rebound slower.
Turning the allen screw counterclockwise (open) will increas the amount of bypass making the shocks compression/rebound faster.
Slower compression means "stiffer"/ faster compression means "softer" in regard to ride.
Slower rebound means shock drops slower, faster rebound means shock drops faster.
Valving: Once the springs are close the next thing to do is adjust the shocks. For the sake of typing, I am going to assume you have bypass shocks so the adjusting of them is easy to do. All of these things apply to a coil over (accept bump stage) but you have to take a coil over apart to change valveing where a bypass can be done externally as long as the internal valveing is close. For the sake of definitions, more compression means more compression resistance, or slower compression of the suspension or a stiffer ride. Less compression means less resistance, or faster compression of the suspension or softer ride. More rebound means more rebound resistance, or slower extension of the suspension. Less rebound means less resistance to the extension of you suspension, faster tire extension. There are many ways to adjust suspension and all work but what "I" like to do is to start with the shocks as loose as possible. Set your compression and rebound adjusters all the way out or as loose as they can be. Next, run the whoops. Try them at 20 mph and slowly run up to 60mph. If you have some experience with this then you can feel what the suspension is doing but if not then the best thing is to watch the car from another car or video a section of whoops at different speeds and play it back in slow motion. If your compression is too loose it still rides great in the whoops. If compression is still too stiff the chassis will rise up with each jarring hit of a whoop. The goal is to have compression loose enough to allow the suspension to compress over the whoops without causing the chassis to rise up with each hit. Use some common sense here since a huge whoop can hit pretty good no matter what you do. I then stiffen compression until the chassis starts to "shock" upward and then back off a bit. If the rebound is too loose then it will still ride good in the whoops unless it is WAY too loose in which case the car will rise upward shortly after you hit a whoop. I know this sounds the same as stiff compression but they are different. If compression is stiff and moves the car you will feel jarred by the front side of the whoop as you go over it. If it is a rebound issue then the front of the whoop feels fine but after that the chassis raises up smoothly without any jarring affect. Another way to tell is if the chassis bobbing around stops when you get into the throttle, probably loose rebound. If there is too much rebound then the engine will rap up in rpm between each whoop since the tire isn't allowed to extend fast enough to keep contact with the ground. Again, video is easiest when doing this so try it and see how you do.
Next, G outs and final rebound adjustments. Once you are happy with the whoops then move on to some G outs. If you have a 3 tube or more bypass then the shortest compression tube is the closest thing you will have to a G out adjustment. Hit a few G outs and if the car tends to bottom out during what you would consider to be normal dunning for YOU then stiffen the short tube adjustment a turn or two at a time until your G outs become livable. Remember that every car can be bottomed out if you like so keep this at the level you intend to run the car. If you still can bottom the car with ease even with the short tube all the way tight then try the secondary rate nuts. If you can get the ride you like without using up all the short tube adjustments then great! Try the rate nuts also and just loosen your short tube adjustment to get a smoother ride in other places.
---------- Post added at 05:31 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:19 PM ----------
What valving is in your coilover and bypass ?
There will have been a tag attached to each shock when you received them...
