GEN 2 Got some price estimates for B&O upgrade...

[10SpdsOfFury]

So true on the boxes. My buddy built me a custom box for two Sundown SA10’s In my Mazda and it sounds so good everyone thinks I have two 12’s. I had them in a cheep Pre fab while he was building my box and the 10’s sounded like crap.

 

[Wolfeman]

the oem enclosure is molded plastic. there is a bolt on the backside that bolts into the oem subwoofer to help solidify the box.

Just to clarify, there is no bolt in the B&O sub box. It is also ported vs the Sony being sealed. Not to say that it's any better, just different.

 

[Tr4ckD4ys]

the 10tw3 is really the deepest speaker you can fit behind there, but the sub isnt the best. it works for people who want a little bit more bass, but unfortunately due to the nature of a shallow subwoofer, it doesnt play some frequencies well and will sound muffled or distorted at specific frequency ranges. and trying to put anything in the oem enclosure is worthless. the oem enclosure is molded plastic. there is a bold on the backside that bolts into the oem subwoofer to help solidify the box. any aftermarket sub will push more air than the oem and the box will flex. sure you will get a little more output, but once the volume goes up and the box flexes, you are creating out of phase sound waves which will cancel out the sound coming from the woofer. you can take the worlds crapiest woofer, put it in the perfec box and it will sound good. you can take the worlds best woofer and put it in a crappy box and it will sound terrible. simply put for clean, deep bass throughout the sub frequncy range, you need a real woofer and not a shallow mount. but a lot of people like the output of a shallow mount and dont really care about the frequency range as long as its louder. descision is yours.

could you specify a bit further what muffled ranges are experienced? I listen to a very wide range of music, from country to German techno. There is no one-size-fits-all for me from a consumption perspective but maybe there’s a good middle route? I’m also not audiophile... the b&o system is pretty good but that sub and speakers start super vibrating at >18 vol...

spent some time today adjusting Spotify equalizer with car play connection and Ford sync b/m/t ... nothing good game out behind that volume other than odd vibration sounds that bug me...

 

[The Car Stereo Company]

could you specify a bit further what muffled ranges are experienced? I listen to a very wide range of music, from country to German techno. There is no one-size-fits-all for me from a consumption perspective but maybe there’s a good middle route? I’m also not audiophile... the b&o system is pretty good but that sub and speakers start super vibrating at >18 vol...

spent some time today adjusting Spotify equalizer with car play connection and Ford sync b/m/t ... nothing good game out behind that volume other than odd vibration sounds that bug me...

usually lower frequencies 50hz and below. but it depends on the accoustics of the vehicle. we use audiomobile subwoofers in all of our builds. they are probably the best sounding speaker available. they are about 3/4in deeper than the jl audio tw3 so they wont fit behind the seat, but they are a musical speaker, i ran a test tone through them from 80hz to 0hz at 2/3 max volume in my truck. they just dont distort. they played every frequency just like it should. i have 2 of the 10" in my truck. just to give perspective on my sound system, this is what i have.

mosconi 6to8 aerospace
focal 165wxp front
focal 165fx2 rear
mosconi as 200.4 front stage
mosconi as 200.4 rear and subwoofers

the subwoofers are by far the cheapest component in my system, but they are not the weak point either. they keep up with the expensive speakers and amp and do it very well. i will not use anything else. plus they require the least amount of airspace than any other woofer i have tested. they can be used in .4cu ft and sound amazing. i have them in a box thats .6cu ft under my rear seat

 

[pbtjrlmrt]

Is it only the 10" that fit or also the 12" of the same model?

I don't know about the 12" but I doubt it. JL Audio has specs that the box must meet in order for the sound to come out as intended. I think the box requirements would be to large to go behind the seat but you'd need to have a competent shop spec it out for you

 

[pbtjrlmrt]

the 10tw3 is really the deepest speaker you can fit behind there, but the sub isnt the best. it works for people who want a little bit more bass, but unfortunately due to the nature of a shallow subwoofer, it doesnt play some frequencies well and will sound muffled or distorted at specific frequency ranges. and trying to put anything in the oem enclosure is worthless. the oem enclosure is molded plastic. there is a bold on the backside that bolts into the oem subwoofer to help solidify the box. any aftermarket sub will push more air than the oem and the box will flex. sure you will get a little more output, but once the volume goes up and the box flexes, you are creating out of phase sound waves which will cancel out the sound coming from the woofer. you can take the worlds crapiest woofer, put it in the perfec box and it will sound good. you can take the worlds best woofer and put it in a crappy box and it will sound terrible. simply put for clean, deep bass throughout the sub frequncy range, you need a real woofer and not a shallow mount. but a lot of people like the output of a shallow mount and dont really care about the frequency range as long as its louder. descision is yours.

Curious if someone was contemplating using the OEM enclosure that sparked your comment? I agree that the OEM enclosure is inappropriate for anything aftermarket.

Curious why you think the 10tw3 is so bad? What do you know that JL audio doesn't know? If a box is built to meet the specs that JL Audio has laid out then the SUB is very very nice. I agree that different subs and different enclosures will yield different results but to characterize the 10tw3 in an appropriate enclosure as something that is just a bit louder and is somehow sub par is a mis representation...unless...you know something that JL Audio doesn't.

 

[JohnC12]

Not sure why the profile page says that... I have a 2019 screw...

Sorry about that... I misread your profile page. I was kinda baffled as to why you would go from a Sony to a B&O. Makes sense now.

 

[The Car Stereo Company]

Curious if someone was contemplating using the OEM enclosure that sparked your comment? I agree that the OEM enclosure is inappropriate for anything aftermarket.

Curious why you think the 10tw3 is so bad? What do you know that JL audio doesn't know? If a box is built to meet the specs that JL Audio has laid out then the SUB is very very nice. I agree that different subs and different enclosures will yield different results but to characterize the 10tw3 in an appropriate enclosure as something that is just a bit louder and is somehow sub par is a mis representation...unless...you know something that JL Audio doesn't.

its a known fact, all shallow mount subwoofers give up some performance in return for taking less space. doesnt matter the brand. even the $900 illusion audio subwoofers. its just a matter of how much performance you are willing to give up

 

[Hush Car Audio]

You definitely want to use something to defeat the B&O system if you want good sound. There are currently two units that make this possible. One from Axxess and the other from NavTV. Once you defeat the system then your audio will be so much better. If you can give me an idea on your total budget via PM I can help guide you along the way to the best decision that suits your needs.