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No issues Joe. I really like the setup and can't wait to put it to use in the dunes and camping with youngins. Got some traction mats (tred pro from Kickstarter) that will fit like a glove up there too.
I don't regret anything about it.
Do it. Finally live the life of parking outside. You are in SC anyway.
Now that you've got some offroadmiles on the rack, how has it held up?
It held up great, I ran it a total of 3 runs so roughly 1500-2000 offroad miles. Now these are rough miles, with lots of washboard, ooopsie moments, etc. And it held together great. The washboard is what i was most concerned about as I thought it might come loose.
I did pull it off for the last 2 runs. More just playing with the looks of the truck than anything. Went to go put it back on and I carelessly damaged one of the mounting rails. Just waiting on gobi to send some replacements.
Have you jumped the truck with it loaded with gear?
I never have it fully loaded for runs only because I don't want to make the truck top heavy. That being said as long as you had light stuff up there like duffle bags, traction mats, etc. You'd be fine.
However, we had a buddy (Nikos) who has the same rack go on the Devils Express. He had a Roof Top Tent, Shower, and awning attached. Held up just fine. Actually after seeing the rack hold up through that beating with that much weight on it I believe it can handle anything.
Here's the only video I have of it in action:
I know you said you had to use nutserts to mount it, over the stock method.
Had the mounting stayed solid?
Stayed solid as a rock. Was actually a little surprised how well it's held up. For additional strength, you could drop the head liner and drill the wholes all the way through and ditch the nut serts all together. This would make a stronger mount and how Nikos mounted his.
How is it to load and strap items down?
Super easy. There is mesh running in between the main load bars so you can pretty much hook your ratchet straps anywhere on the rack.
How has the coating held up?
So far so good.
Anything else you'd like to add?
It's a solid product and as long as you don't mount it with the jack nuts it will be bullet proof.
How about a pic from this list run?
As mentioned before I pulled it and will be putting it back on soon.
I'm waiting on a rack to be delivered but don't know how I'm going to run the wiring for the lights. It looks like you may have yours tied to the existing 50" harness running down the windshield but I can't tell from the pics. I haven't seen enough detail to make a plan for a clean install. Thanks!
Like you observed that's how I mounted it. You don't need an existing 50" to run it this way though. What I did is ran the wire along the rack on the passenger side to the first mounting bracket where it attaches to the roof. Ran it down the bracket to the roof. Than used 3m double sided tape (can also use silicone) and rand it in the little rain gutter (or depression not sure what it really is haha) to the windshield and than ran it down the windshield like people do for the roof light bars.
Like you observed that's how I mounted it. You don't need an existing 50" to run it this way though. What I did is ran the wire along the rack on the passenger side to the first mounting bracket where it attaches to the roof. Ran it down the bracket to the roof. Than used 3m double sided tape (can also use silicone) and rand it in the little rain gutter (or depression not sure what it really is haha) to the windshield and than ran it down the windshield like people do for the roof light bars.
You could remove it two different ways that I see.
1) remove the whole rack in its entirety and fill the moly nuts or nutserts that go into the roof with stainless pan head bolts and some blue anti-seize.
20 bolts to unfasten and 8 to tighten back in the moly-nuts/nutserts. Probably take about 20-25 minutes with one additional person to help you remove the rack.
2) remove the rack to the installed tracks. You will have to ask Gobi or fab up some matching plate to keep what Gobi calls the t-nuts (the machined blocks that fit into the tracks) secured by use of the hardware used for the support brackets (the brackets between track and the actual rack).
12 bolts to unfasten and 12 to fasten back into the t-nuts. Easier than the above. 15 minutes with one additional person to help you remove the rack.
Hope this makes sense. Take a look at the install manual I had sent you.
Shoot me an email or give me a call me if you need further clarification.
I had an idea for a rack and I'll never get it designed and patented so might as well explain it here so someone might make it. I have 4 kid's so If you see this help out with a scholarship to school at least.
Bed rails you put a runner system "like in a drawer" on the rails. You then can roll it on and off with stands like that on a camper system, that easy. use it open or Keep the stuff under clean and dry with a topper. When you get to where your' going the system can then be rolled off and used in many different ways. camp site shade or sleep etc.
For those ordering a rack, I would recommend asking Gobi to provide a 2"x2" tab with a 3/4" hole for use with an NMO antenna mount. Even if you don't have or want an antenna, the option is there for you if you decide to use it.
Two different ways to run you antenna wiring, out the door or in the headliner and out the bottom side of the 3rd brake light.
I had an idea for a rack and I'll never get it designed and patented so might as well explain it here so someone might make it. I have 4 kid's so If you see this help out with a scholarship to school at least.
Bed rails you put a runner system "like in a drawer" on the rails. You then can roll it on and off with stands like that on a camper system, that easy. use it open or Keep the stuff under clean and dry with a topper. When you get to where your' going the system can then be rolled off and used in many different ways. camp site shade or sleep etc.
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