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Works out to 1" of driveline plunge, pinion angle stays within 2 degrees for most of the travel until full droop where it rolls up 6 degrees to minimize plunge as much as possible.
Anti squat is 90% at ride height, 65% at 4" of compression from ride height, 40% at full bump. 110% at full droop.
Ditched the axle control shocks entirely and cut in a currie sway bar.
Antisquat behaviour is improved with the three link geometry, it doesn't "stiffen" up the rear suspension quite as much under throttle. That translates to a less jarring trip across the top of the whoops.
I was corresponding with Geoff in regards to the axle shock failing under a tension load. He says they are now building their own axle shocks that have doubled the size of the piston retaining shaft and nut. If he sends me some comparison pics I'll post them up here.
Not sure why the reluctance to market it as a three link, overall cost would be the same, and it's really not much more work to do.
Sway bar was pretty straight forward, hole saw through the frame, slide the outer tubing through and weld it up. Put a couple tabs on top of the ddl axle brackets, just need to order a couple heims to allow double shear mounting at the axle now.
Sorry about the picture quality, my iPhone 6+ camera is taking a dump.
Truck looks like it's working great now! I always wondered how well these kits would work in their stock form and had my doubts.
I had a radius arm setup on the front of my Ultra 4 car and I didn't like it at all, by nature the binding and resistance to move when you're hard on the gas made the front end a lot stiffer than it should've been. I swapped it over to a 3-link also and it made a world of difference and actually let the shocks do the work instead of the suspension just binding up, such a smoother ride.
Truck looks like it's working great now! I always wondered how well these kits would work in their stock form and had my doubts.
I had a radius arm setup on the front of my Ultra 4 car and I didn't like it at all, by nature the binding and resistance to move when you're hard on the gas made the front end a lot stiffer than it should've been. I swapped it over to a 3-link also and it made a world of difference and actually let the shocks do the work instead of the suspension just binding up, such a smoother ride.
Yeah, the alteration in anti squat is mostly from where I mounted the third link in relation to the lower link pockets. Now under throttle the rotational moment of the rear axle pulls the chassis downwards enough to cancel out the upwards thrust vector of the relatively short lower link arms required by a crew cab.
Geoff would kick me in the balls for talking antisquat numbers, as they are so heavily influenced by a bunch of other factors like valving, weight distribution, ride height, etc. But it's just flat out working better now, can't argue with that.
Yeah, the alteration in anti squat is mostly from where I mounted the third link in relation to the lower link pockets. Now under throttle the rotational moment of the rear axle pulls the chassis downwards enough to cancel out the upwards thrust vector of the relatively short lower link arms required by a crew cab.
Geoff would kick me in the balls for talking antisquat numbers, as they are so heavily influenced by a bunch of other factors like valving, weight distribution, ride height, etc. But it's just flat out working better now, can't argue with that.
Exactly, a lot of other factors are going to play a roll in shooting for an exact anti squat number which isn't realistic on these trucks unless you are dealing with a full back half, but a radius arm setup is about as far in the wrong direction you can go. Anything to get that number heading in the right direction though is only going help.
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