Gen 2 OE rear shocks on gen 1

[bamared]

I think if someone doesnt read the entire thread, they should not post an opinion. 50% of this thread is ass hats saying it wont work, wrong bolt hole size in bushings, to long, to short, spring this spring that....

Fact is this,
if you can get it to work with a 10 mile take off set from a Gen2, are you really going to pay 2k for a NEW SET or however much for Gen1 that is rebuilt that cost.

Another simple question,
Gen1 guys with Deavers +3.......... you change your Gen1 rear's out to aftermarket? its only 1"........ and yes, they have bump stop mounts that will make up for this with Gen2 rears installed and hell its only 150.00 or so......

just gotta get of your ass and research or be a skilled fab guy.

 

[AndysLog]

I think if someone doesnt read the entire thread, they should not post an opinion. 50% of this thread is ass hats saying it wont work, wrong bolt hole size in bushings, to long, to short, spring this spring that....

Fact is this,
if you can get it to work with a 10 mile take off set from a Gen2, are you really going to pay 2k for a NEW SET or however much for Gen1 that is rebuilt that cost.

Another simple question,
Gen1 guys with Deavers +3.......... you change your Gen1 rear's out to aftermarket? its only 1"........ and yes, they have bump stop mounts that will make up for this with Gen2 rears installed and hell its only 150.00 or so......

just gotta get of your ass and research or be a skilled fab guy.

Reading a thread full of dudes thinking this is a solid option won’t change facts.


I did see somewhere someone said we should be concerned about compressed lengths ect as well. If you go back to many of my previous posts, not only do I mention this in this thread but I’ve asked people to go jump their trucks on this setup for that exact reason.


I’m 100% just trying to save dudes from thinking this is a legit option on a FACTORY suspension gen1. I think you need some decent modifications before the front fits and works as intended. Just as well the back one is compressed so much you are going to destroy it with heavy off-road use and jumping. Well honestly you will hurt your front end too. But it sounds like full droop will hurt you first, then fulll compression.

The gen2 guys think I have it out for them too. I just can’t help it when I see something stupid. You are hindering your truck that used to be good off-road, you are not enhancing it beyond getting that small squish zone of 3.0 daily driving.




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[bamared]

Andy-
My point for the rear is this:
you can put deavers in the rear +3 which is 1" lift, on stock gen1 rears. the added 1" of lift never hurt the rears. When you do this, they sell the correct bump stops for the added lift, but i have read that most use aftermarket to gain more suspension travel. so with the added 1" of shock travel compression, this would correct that issue with the correct bump stop setting.

For the Front-
if you read back a few posts, one guy measured and cut the bump stops on the shaft as the GEN2 is much longer. He also got limiter straps to limit how far the front droops to avoid 2 things, cv angle and UCA hitting the spring.

Further more, all the measurements are posted between post 1, and this one, which means guys just need to read. Spring rate has also been talked about and sorted. Spring OD was the issue of a straight forward swap, as the OD was to big on the Gen2, but like everyone said before they tried it, the Gen1 spring fits over the Gen2 shock like a glove and using the Gen1 top hat keeps it simple.

As for relocating the front shock upper mount, sure it can be done, and yes re-enforcing the rear upper can be done too for precaution. Is it absolutely required, not so far.

 

[BenBB]

I’m 100% just trying to save dudes from thinking this is a legit option on a FACTORY suspension gen1.

So if I score a set of fronts off a Can-am Maverick X3 DS I shouldn't try to mount them on my truck? I dunno mang, the thru-hood top mount look is pretty sweet

 

[AndysLog]

Andy-
My point for the rear is this:
you can put deavers in the rear +3 which is 1" lift, on stock gen1 rears. the added 1" of lift never hurt the rears. When you do this, they sell the correct bump stops for the added lift, but i have read that most use aftermarket to gain more suspension travel. so with the added 1" of shock travel compression, this would correct that issue with the correct bump stop setting.

For the Front-
if you read back a few posts, one guy measured and cut the bump stops on the shaft as the GEN2 is much longer. He also got limiter straps to limit how far the front droops to avoid 2 things, cv angle and UCA hitting the spring.

Further more, all the measurements are posted between post 1, and this one, which means guys just need to read. Spring rate has also been talked about and sorted. Spring OD was the issue of a straight forward swap, as the OD was to big on the Gen2, but like everyone said before they tried it, the Gen1 spring fits over the Gen2 shock like a glove and using the Gen1 top hat keeps it simple.

As for relocating the front shock upper mount, sure it can be done, and yes re-enforcing the rear upper can be done too for precaution. Is it absolutely required, not so far.

Again I never said it wouldn’t fit. It’s clear to see with enough ass behind you, you can stuff shocks wayyy to large in the space. That’s been provided.

I would be surprised if gen2 shocks would last a Day in the desert against a stock 2.5 truck simply because people don’t understand how shocks work I guess.

You are confusing my point of working PROPERLY and you and a few others say they fit and have no issues. They do have issues lol, take them out to the vast off-road that’s all over this planet and you will see them super fast.


Edit. The more I keep thinking about this, the proper way to make the fronts fit and work with as little modifications as possible would be to run the shock through the upper mount. Top hat extensions if you will, I believe that to be the cheapest most effect way of running these shocks from a factory gen1 truck.

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[bamared]

Edit. The more I keep thinking about this, the proper way to make the fronts fit and work with as little modifications as possible would be to run the shock through the upper mount. Top hat extensions if you will, I believe that to be the cheapest most effect way of running these shocks from a factory gen1 truck.

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This is what I plan on trying first once i get ready to do the swap. If that wont work ill just relocate the entire top by adding a section.

 

[ogdobber]

Again I never said it wouldn’t fit. It’s clear to see with enough ass behind you, you can stuff shocks wayyy to large in the space. That’s been provided.

I would be surprised if gen2 shocks would last a Day in the desert against a stock 2.5 truck simply because people don’t understand how shocks work I guess.

You are confusing my point of working PROPERLY and you and a few others say they fit and have no issues. They do have issues lol, take them out to the vast off-road that’s all over this planet and you will see them super fast.


Edit. The more I keep thinking about this, the proper way to make the fronts fit and work with as little modifications as possible would be to run the shock through the upper mount. Top hat extensions if you will, I believe that to be the cheapest most effect way of running these shocks from a factory gen1 truck.

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The top hat extension is the best and easiest idea i have heard. Just need to look to see if it could be done[emoji6]


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[t_j]

I'm just quoting the measurements that have been given here. I'll get the exact measurements when i install them on my truck.

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To get fully compressed numbers you will need to discharge the nitrogen in them and measure them. Measurements should be taken off the truck.

 

[AndysLog]

The top hat extension is the best and easiest idea i have heard. Just need to look to see if it could be done[emoji6]


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actually the more i think about it more. the body of the 3.0 is just so much larger, im back to thinking a lift that will destroy CVs or relocate the upper mount.

 

[engine45]

bump for limit strap pics