I saw OPs other post and I believe he already has the coil bucket conversion.
Op, I've have a 2g conversion and I changed the internal top out spacer from a 1" to a 3/8" thickness which gives the shock 8-5/8" of shaft travel, it drops pretty far.
Some pointers I have are:
The cv axles them selves, I'm using the extened travel ones and they seem to be holding up, but I have noticed that the bellow on the outboard side flippled direction, or over centered so it's collapsed inward.
It was like this for a while and I could tell it was wearing in this position, since I found that I have been cleaning and lubing the bellow with silicon spray often it seems to keep the rubber from popping inward.
Another item to consider is to take out negitive camber if you can, I'm not saying go positive but go as close to zero as you can. Depending on your front ride hight the camber curve will definitely cause an aggressive cv angle at drop especially if it's already negitive at ride height. Having the front higher up at ride height with zero camber will reduce the total angle at drop as well.
And lastly when in a turn with steering angle and the front drops the cv angles will be extreme no matter what, so along with other reasons I do recommend keeping a front swaybar. This will give you full travel for head on hits but much less flex and thus your steering angle will not be as hard on the cvs in most cases.
To summerize,
Negitive camber at ride height will cause more cv angle at drop.
A higher front with the same camber setting will reduce cv angle at droop.
Swaybar will help save the cvs while steering in flex.
