Ford Raptor Fuel Pump Fuse Issue

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dxbraptor

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fuse 27

hi
the same happened to me my raptor 2013 didn't start when taken to the dealer it started they couldn't detect the issue, the usual they did ecu reset and back to me. after two weeks the same happened so i checked the fuses for ecu and fuel pump found the fuse number 27 was a bit melted as in the pic but not blown according to the manual its the ecu sustain power.
so check the fuses maybe same as my issue.
 

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billybob974

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hi
the same happened to me my raptor 2013 didn't start when taken to the dealer it started they couldn't detect the issue, the usual they did ecu reset and back to me. after two weeks the same happened so i checked the fuses for ecu and fuel pump found the fuse number 27 was a bit melted as in the pic but not blown according to the manual its the ecu sustain power.
so check the fuses maybe same as my issue.

I'm guessing this is exactly what the problem was. My mechanic said I had 3 blown fuses and one was actually melted a little. I didn't even check the fuse panel because it say anything about a "fuel pump" fuse in the owners manual.
 

J DAMAGE

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I'm guessing this is exactly what the problem was. My mechanic said I had 3 blown fuses and one was actually melted a little. I didn't even check the fuse panel because it say anything about a "fuel pump" fuse in the owners manual.

Good to hear it was and easy repair, nothing big.
 

Yukon Joe

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hi
the same happened to me my raptor 2013 didn't start when taken to the dealer it started they couldn't detect the issue, the usual they did ecu reset and back to me. after two weeks the same happened so i checked the fuses for ecu and fuel pump found the fuse number 27 was a bit melted as in the pic but not blown according to the manual its the ecu sustain power.
so check the fuses maybe same as my issue.

I had the same exact thing happened to my truck while at the snoball 3. The truck would run for about an hour then stall with no check engine light. We would try clearing any codes by removing the negative side battery terminal, wait about 10 minutes, reconnect it and try starting the truck again. It would then fire and start right up. I could drive for about an hour and it would stall again. Apparently when the fuse 27 melted it did in such a way that it would make connection while cold. When it would get hot, fuse 27 would open the connection and stall. When I would try to restart the truck, all it would do is crank. we finally got it to the dealer on Tuesday when we were supposed to leave and they were able to find the issue. The fuse melted so badly that the fuse box needs to be replaced. The dealer in Escanaba did not have a fuse box on hand, so they pulled the wire from fuse 27 and jumpered it direct to the battery with an inline fuse.

so, my question is: what is causing fuse 27 to draw so much current that it melts prior to blowing the fuse?

one thought that I discussed with my father, a mechanic, was the fuel control module having a poor ground. But I am not sure where that ground is located. Perhaps on the frame?
 

Yukon Joe

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Hey guys; @dxbraptor & @billybob974

Question for yeah, do you have a different fuse in slot f28 other than the stock fuse?

Fuse 28 is for aux switch 4, a 10 amp fuse.

My fuse 27 melted after running the truck hard and having a slightly different fuse in slot 28. It was a 10amp, but wasn't a mini fuse. It was longer. I was running aux 4 when the issue happened.
Just a thought.... trying to see if there was a cross effect by having a different fuse in 28 and running it at the same time....

Thank You for your donations to Avery. We hit our goal!

Yukon Joe
Snoball 3
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www.runraptorrun.com
 

beachz

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I don't know that a solid connection would get hot enough without breaching the fuse to melt that plastic. If it were arcing to make contact, that would allow it to melt the fuse housing without blowing the fuse. I would bet that the spring ears for 27 were sprung and not allowing constant full contact. Once the plastic melts away, the ear of the fuse can move. When it gets hot, it may move enough to fail to make contact any more. When it cools, it could move back out. Just a theory. In an emergency situation you could SLIGHTLY twist the ear of the fuse to force it make contact. That would at least get you out of the woods.

I had a sprung connector in my TwinTurbo that acted very similar, although it didn't melt away that far. I know what the cause was though. The previous owner had jumped that fuse with a connector to an amp!*@&#^& *******!
 

BearLeeAsian

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I had the same exact thing happened to my truck while at the snoball 3. The truck would run for about an hour then stall with no check engine light. We would try clearing any codes by removing the negative side battery terminal, wait about 10 minutes, reconnect it and try starting the truck again. It would then fire and start right up. I could drive for about an hour and it would stall again. Apparently when the fuse 27 melted it did in such a way that it would make connection while cold. When it would get hot, fuse 27 would open the connection and stall. When I would try to restart the truck, all it would do is crank. we finally got it to the dealer on Tuesday when we were supposed to leave and they were able to find the issue. The fuse melted so badly that the fuse box needs to be replaced. The dealer in Escanaba did not have a fuse box on hand, so they pulled the wire from fuse 27 and jumpered it direct to the battery with an inline fuse.



so, my question is: what is causing fuse 27 to draw so much current that it melts prior to blowing the fuse?



one thought that I discussed with my father, a mechanic, was the fuel control module having a poor ground. But I am not sure where that ground is located. Perhaps on the frame?


My truck wouldn't start tonight. Left it there till the morning. Will check fuse 27.


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