First Raptor, love it but it has issues

[BassFishinRaptor2013]

What’s up everybody, i’m new to forums and just bought my first Raptor last year a 2013 race red with 105k, I traded my 2016 Denali for it, and while I love the truck it has some major issues. I posted about the issues in the problems and questions section, but in short the cv axel is loose in the diff it’s locked in but moves, and the suspension is totally bottomed out when jacked up. I’m really hoping I can find some answers on here and learn some tricks and tips about this truck.

 

[Muchmore]

The tip is you have to turn a bunch of tricks to pay for that new suspension upgrade. You may walk funny for a while but it will be totally worth it.

 

[BassFishinRaptor2013]

My major concern is the front diff issue, the cv axel is really loose in the diff but the snap ring is locked in, there is a knocking, clunking noise when slowing down under 20mph along with a mean vibration all through acceleration and cruising doesn’t matter how fast or slow it vibrates and makes the clunk/knock when slowing down. The suspension is the least of my concerns unless it’s causing the axel to be pushed into the diff or the axel angles are wrong.

 

[mprice1234]

Nice intro, welcome to the forum. Hope you get some advice and or suggestions soon.

 

[The Car Stereo Company]

morning..........

probably need new shocks and a couple axle shafts

 

[MurderedOutSVT]

Welcome to FRF

 

[TomDirt]

It depends on your budget and if you can find someone local to rebuild your front shocks. New oem Fox 2.5's shocks have doubled in price lately, so having them rebuilt, or finding something else like Kings, is more common than before. Either way, it's time to pull off the shocks and axles (and probably the IWE's), so you don't end up doing the teardown twice.

 

[BassFishinRaptor2013]

I figured out the previous owner had a Temu leveling kit on it that caused most of the issue, I just ordered OEM ford bearings for the diff, new front hubs, axels, and I’m not sure what IWE to put on, will the vacuum delete ones work? Or use OEM? Along with lower ball joints, in a couple weeks I’ll spring for new upper control arms and a shock rebuild kit. I may try and tackle the shocks myself. I’m going to tackle the diff bearings myself I’ve never done it before but the price of a replacement is motivating me to learn quick. I was a motorcycle/atv tech for over a decade I have the proper tools and am not totally inept so I think this won’t end in shattered dreams and an empty wallet. I’ll post some pics and updates when I get started this Sunday or next week depending on parts availability.

 

[TomDirt]

The good news is, Raptor UCA's are remarkably cheap, (and not rebuildable). Around $60/ea. The ball joints & bushings on the LCA's are replaceable, and prolly cost $150/side, but you definitely need a hydraulic press. Don't be like this guy and beat your steel balljoints out of the aluminum control arms with a sledgehammer.

IWE's are under $100/pr delivered. Lucky for us, most Raptor parts are similar on price to F150 parts.

I don't know if you can get to the front diff bearings while it's on the truck, but I do know that your 2013 already has the Torsen front diff unit, so you don't need to spend another $1000 to have one installed... like I did.

 

[BassFishinRaptor2013]

I’m going to pull the diff out so I can work on it on my bench and really go over what failed and what caused it so I’m not doing this again next year. I may spring for some upgraded control arms but idk because I mainly just tow my bass boat or kayak trailer I don’t do much off-roading to where I’d really need them. More than likely I’m just going to put it back to factory specs. It’s my daily driver so I’m really going for reliability over performance, and I’m sick of driving my wife’s teal fiesta.